Announcing 02-Early 03 Altima Auxiliary Input Plug

[movax]

Huh...looking at his second pic in detail, it looks like he has jumped R. IN+ and L. IN+ to GND?

Wait, I think I see it now...each black wire is a pair, shield going to ground, and the other wire going to +. Hmm...right now I have two RCA jacks wired on the back, going to R+/- and L+/-...maybe I'll try shorting their grounds together, though that should already be done on the PCB itself.

Any tips for powering her up on a bench instead of car? About to just bring my soldering station out to garage XD

[phreekee25]

like i said before, comb on is not used.. here's an old PM i keep saved that might help clarify.

Originally Posted by phreekee25

The layout of the pins should be like one of these:

You can apply 12V to pin 1 to make sure you're starting at the correct pin. If you accidentally connect to pin 3 instead of pin 1, there will be no harm done, since pin 3 is not connected to anything. When 12V is connected to pin 1 (while head unit is on) the display will read "AUX" (or something like that).
Pins 6&7 will actually both end up soldered together, since headphone cables or jacks only use one ground wire for both left and right channels.
Hope this info helps... If not, let me know and I'll try to answer as best as I can. Good luck.

P.S. If you are really uncertain about the pins and have a meter on hand, you can open up your head unit and verify each pin. The DIN socket goes to a small circuit board that has each connection clearly labeled.

[duaner]

Why is it late to get the DIN plug from AT?

I don't know... I clicked on a link and it didn't work and I think I got AT confused with another company that is no longer around. Basically, I'm an idiot and should have thought before I typed. lol

Anyway, I just got back in from looking at the back of my HU and...... I have the DIN plug. I'm emailing now to see what it will cost me to get one shipped up here. Although, I should probably just wire my own and save a few bucks.

Thanks for bringing this thread back to life movax. I had no idea.

[movax]

Originally Posted by duaner

I don't know... I clicked on a link and it didn't work and I think I got AT confused with another company that is no longer around. Basically, I'm an idiot and should have thought before I typed. lol

Anyway, I just got back in from looking at the back of my HU and...... I have the DIN plug. I'm emailing now to see what it will cost me to get one shipped up here. Although, I should probably just wire my own and save a few bucks.

Thanks for bringing this thread back to life movax. I had no idea.

No problem! Unfortunately, I was unable to get my aux in working - I have this feeling that some of the unpopulated pads on the main PCB were in fact populated on models with the DIN input connector - high-res pics of the bottom of a PCB with the port will confirm this once and for all.

I don't want to take apart my HU again anyways - I must have reassemebled at least 30 times, and finally one of the display pins broke, and I had to solder it up - not cool!

Can anyone suggest a cheaper place than eBay to find an older HU w/ the port, preferably w/ the Bose changer, as I don't know if non-Bose HUs have the same pinout for the amp?

[movax]

Alright - I gave up on it. Picked up a PY030 off eBay, all 4 ports on back for 60 shipped after Live Cashback. Also put up my old HU, so I should break around even probably. I'll take high-res pics of that PCB versus mine to settle the question once and for all.

Also ordered a male DIN connector from digi-key...$6 shipped, should be "nicer" than having to solder straight to the board, and safer. (Not to mention proven). Now I'm just thinking about where to run the cable, as I'm not 100% sure where I'm going to end up mounting my Zune.

[duaner]

Nice! Hope it works out. What are you going to use for a swtich? I was thinking of mounting a nice rocker switch on the console somewhere not too noticable. The switch shown on the Active Tuning site (the single pic, not the one on the cable) looks pretty good. At first I was thinking of mounting the RCA's but that might look to cheesy.

[salvador312]

I just have a question.. If I get a radio off ebay with the 8-pin connector.. someone told me I have to program the radio to work with my car. Is that easy? or I have to pay someone for that?

[KONNMAN]

^^^^no need to program anything... i have this and bought my radio off ebay and it works fine 2 years now and now problem

[movax]

Originally Posted by salvador312

I just have a question.. If I get a radio off ebay with the 8-pin connector.. someone told me I have to program the radio to work with my car. Is that easy? or I have to pay someone for that?

Some radios have theft-lock codes, some "radios" are not just radios, but function as an additional ECU in the vehicle (this is a ridiculously dumb design choice, but I've seen it), and may have VIN information or others stored in their EEPROM.

It's just a standard disclaimer most likely from the seller for the radios they are selling.

Also, leaving my radio uninstalled = unilluminated cluster. Found out this morning in the dark...oops.

Originally Posted by duaner

Nice! Hope it works out. What are you going to use for a swtich? I was thinking of mounting a nice rocker switch on the console somewhere not too noticable. The switch shown on the Active Tuning site (the single pic, not the one on the cable) looks pretty good. At first I was thinking of mounting the RCA's but that might look to cheesy.

Rocker switch, yep. Rather than splicing the purple wire, I'll run my own out from the radio (soldered onto that pin internally) to the rocker. Not sure where I'm going to mount it...probably on the left side of center console, so it'd be facing my right knee basically. I might go for an illuminated rocker for funsies.

[duaner]

Originally Posted by movax

Some radios have theft-lock codes, some "radios" are not just radios, but function as an additional ECU in the vehicle (this is a ridiculously dumb design choice, but I've seen it), and may have VIN information or others stored in their EEPROM.

My brother just bought a used Honda minivan. He did some work on it and disconnected the battery. Now he has to go to the dealership to get the code to unlock the HU so he can use it.

Originally Posted by movax

Not sure where I'm going to mount it...probably on the left side of center console, so it'd be facing my right knee basically.

That's exactly where I was thinking--on the angled face to the left of the temp knobs. It looks flat enough there that it should sit properly. Either that or I may put a small, low-profile pushbutton up above the HU. That way I can run the wire through that dead space.

What gauge wire are you using? I forgot to check what was there already but I'm thinking 18-22.

[salvador312]

[QUOTE=duaner;3626214]My brother just bought a used Honda minivan. He did some work on it and disconnected the battery. Now he has to go to the dealership to get the code to unlock the HU so he can use it.

If I do buy i don't want this to happen to me.. and dealers always want to rip you off!!

[movax]

Originally Posted by duaner

My brother just bought a used Honda minivan. He did some work on it and disconnected the battery. Now he has to go to the dealership to get the code to unlock the HU so he can use it.


That's exactly where I was thinking--on the angled face to the left of the temp knobs. It looks flat enough there that it should sit properly. Either that or I may put a small, low-profile pushbutton up above the HU. That way I can run the wire through that dead space.

What gauge wire are you using? I forgot to check what was there already but I'm thinking 18-22.

Going my memory of what the harness had used, anything lower than 20 is overkill really. My day job is as an electrical engineer at an automotive electronics company (we made/I worked on the new Altima pushstart, power seats, security system, etc), and that size pin isn't very high current - we pretty much use 22/24 on our desk harnesses, unless its a power distribution module or similar, in which case the 2 gauge wire is brought out :evil:. I was going to use 24AWG since I have a big spool of it, and sleeve all the wires I run to the switch and such in wire braid so there's no nasty tangling and such.

Gah, I can't wait for my new HU and the DIN plug from Digi-Key! Unilluminated cluster sucks! (Using my phones's GPS as my speedometer at night ).

[movax]

[QUOTE=salvador312;3626329]

Originally Posted by duaner

My brother just bought a used Honda minivan. He did some work on it and disconnected the battery. Now he has to go to the dealership to get the code to unlock the HU so he can use it.

If I do buy i don't want this to happen to me.. and dealers always want to rip you off!!

This will not happen in this particular case - the OEM Nissan HUs (PY010, PY020, PY030) do not seem to have theft-lock codes or any kind of integration with your vehicle other than power/radio antenna/cluster illumination, as attested to by KONNMAN's post.

As for the dealer ripoff part...yes, it can seem that way, but unless you work for the automaker or the ECU supplier, and happen to own OBD or CAN hardware, AND know what bytes to edit/modify, you've nowhere else to go.

[phreekee25]

i like your ideas of where to put the switch. this is how i had mine. only used it from about 03-04, then took it out and went with a different setup. also took out the sony cd changer.

[movax]

Originally Posted by phreekee25

i like your ideas of where to put the switch. this is how i had mine. only used it from about 03-04, then took it out and went with a different setup. also took out the sony cd changer.

That's pretty slick. Problem I have is, I have not decided between letting the Zune nestle itself somewhere, or mounting it w/ a dash holder of sorts. My DealExtreme order (4 port Cigarette Port adapter + USB ports) still will take a week to get in, so in the interim, I'm just going to leave Zune + RCA jack sitting in the center console.

There won't be a problem tying L+/L- to one RCA female jack and R+/R- to another, right? I know headphone cables short them anyways, but on the off chance I want another source...