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post #1 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Heater blowing cold air?

I have an 06 Altima 2.5S Special Edition. It has 58,900 miles on it (yeah it's high mileage, but ALL of my mileage is interstate - very easy mileage).

It's getting kind of chilly here in Maine and I just noticed this recently. When I start the car, let it idle, the coolant temperature guage goes to the exact spot where it always has since it was new, and seems to be normal, but when I turn the heater on it blows "somewhat cold" air.

So as I sit there, let it idle, all guages normal, heater on HOT and HIGH, it blows cool air. When I step on the gas, rev the engine, the air coming out of the vents turns hot immediately.

Is this normal?

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post #2 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 07:39 AM
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Well..If you let go of the throttle, does the air turn cold again? But either way..it doesn't sound too normal. I have an autostart on my car, and in the winter I leave the heat on full blast/fan to 2. And by the time the engine temp is half normal, the car is already warm...
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post #3 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by db79410
So as I sit there, let it idle, all guages normal, heater on HOT and HIGH, it blows cool air. When I step on the gas, rev the engine, the air coming out of the vents turns hot immediately.

Is this normal?


No, this is not normal. You have air in your cooling system that needs to be bled out.

There is a TSB regarding the bleed procedure. It can probably be found at "www.nissanhelp.com" (click on bulletins). Follow the procedure exactly (or have a dealer do it for you). Also, it would be a great time to pick up a new radiator pressure cap, as that is the most likely cause for the air in the system in the first place. Keep your coolant bottle topped up regularly too, because if it gets low then air will get into your system.

There are other posts about this in the "Common Problems" section. Have a look at them for more info.

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post #4 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you! I checked all over All About Nissan Cars. Bulletins, Recalls, Diagnosis, Models and could not find a TSB on this issue - can you help by providing me a TSB # or anything? I'll be dropping it off at the dealer this week to have the issue handled. Thanks so much!

Last edited by db79410; 11-05-2006 at 12:59 PM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 06:11 PM
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To tell you the truth, I was looking for it the other day as well, and I can't seem to find it. I know it has been referenced on these forums before, so perhaps a search? I too checked all over NissanHelp and cannot find it anywhere! It was a while ago the last time I looked it up, and for the life of me I just can't remember where it was that I saw it!!! Sorry

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post #6 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Is it possible for this problem to "fix itself?" Today I noticed the problem is much better/almost not occuring. ?
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post #7 of 18 Old 11-05-2006, 07:34 PM
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It is *possible* that the air could move around the system and eventually end up in the coolant bottle where it's supposed to be, but it's not likely that it will go away completely until you purge the system of air and replace the radiator cap after doing so. If air got in there in the first place, it can get there again and again until the problem is fixed.

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post #8 of 18 Old 12-04-2006, 07:56 PM
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I have an 05 Altima and I have this problem. Did anyone ever find a fix for it?

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post #9 of 18 Old 12-04-2006, 08:12 PM
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^Yes, have the system purged of air.

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post #10 of 18 Old 12-04-2006, 09:45 PM
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Is this something i can do myself?

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post #11 of 18 Old 12-05-2006, 04:24 AM
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Yes, it's not all that hard, it just takes time. I can't seem to locate the purge procedure that Nissan put out for some reason (I have no idea where it went to, I thought it was on Nissanhelp but I can't find it).

So here's my rendition of it (this is what I have always done to every car I've owned, and it's worked well - I haven't had to do it to my Altima yet, but this is what I would do in absence of the purge procedure).


With the car cold, remove the rad cap and keep it off for the entire procedure. Fill the coolant recovery bottle up almost right to the top, leaving just a little bit of space for expansion (an inch from the top basically). Start the car, and turn on the heater to the floor, full heat, and full fan - leave it like this for the entire procedure. You might want to open your windows as it will get quite hot in there

Drive the car up onto ramps, and park on a hill if at all possible. Basically you want to get the front of the car as high as possible, and the back as low as possible to get the air to come out of the rad filler hole. A floor jack works fine as well. Whatever you have, use.

Have a helper get in the car, and keep the RPM's between 2000-2500. Make sure that the heat is still on FULL blast (highest temp, highest fan, floor setting). Keep it like this for at least 10-15 minutes. You should see the cooling fans come on eventually. Keep in mind that as pressure builds, coolant will spill out of the filler neck. Don't worry about this. Once you see the cooling fans come on, the rad will start dropping. Keep a bottle of pre-mix coolant with you and keep the rad topped up, once the cooling fans shut off, fill the rad as much as possible and put the rad cap back on (I highly recommend using a brand new cap). Keep the car running.

Now, with the new rad cap in place, and the over flow bottle over-filled with coolant, go for a nice drive out on the highway for a while (keep the heat on full blast!). That should do the trick for removing air from the system. Keep an eye on the coolant recovery bottle for the following week or two, and if it starts going down, keep it topped up. Once the level in the bottle stops changing, you can use a turkey baster or something of the like to remove some of the excess coolant in the bottle so that it doesn't spill out onto the road while you drive. I recommend keeping it slightly higher than the max line at all times to prevent air ingestion in future.

Good luck with that.

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Last edited by il_signore97; 12-05-2006 at 04:45 AM.
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post #12 of 18 Old 12-05-2006, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by il_signore97
No, this is not normal. You have air in your cooling system that needs to be bled out.

There is a TSB regarding the bleed procedure. It can probably be found at "www.nissanhelp.com" (click on bulletins). Follow the procedure exactly (or have a dealer do it for you). Also, it would be a great time to pick up a new radiator pressure cap, as that is the most likely cause for the air in the system in the first place. Keep your coolant bottle topped up regularly too, because if it gets low then air will get into your system.

There are other posts about this in the "Common Problems" section. Have a look at them for more info.
This is the correct solution. Same thing happened to my car last year and I flushed the system and got a new cap and it worked. I just dropped my car off at the gas station near my job and told them what I wanted done and everything worked out OK.

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post #13 of 18 Old 03-11-2007, 06:59 PM
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I have the same problem with my '06 2.5s Special Edition. I talked to a service person at my dealership about it and he said with the aluminum block and four cylinder this is going to happen in really cold weather.

Since I just bought this car late November last year and it was a very cold winter around here, I didn't think much about it. Then over the past week or so it has warmed up but the same problem remains.

I talked to the people in the service dept when I took her in for her first service yesterday and now they are saying it sounds like an air lock. I tend to believe the second person more than the first.

My problem is the service dept is open 8:00am - 6:00pm. I have to leave for work at 7:30am and don't get back to the area of the dealership until around 6:30pm. This is gonna be fun.
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post #14 of 18 Old 03-11-2007, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Same car as mine - 2006 Altima 2.5S Special Edition. I had my coolant changed this week and that fixed the problem for a few days, then on a really cold night, about 8 below zero, it happened again the next morning. After the car ran for about 2-4 hours (highway driving) it seemed to come out of it later that day. Problem still seems to be intermittent. :-/
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-14-2007, 03:13 AM
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Got my heater problem fixed today. Here is what it says on the work oder.

"Coolant Strength -45 Celsius, Too Strong. Drained .5L Coolant, filled with water. Re-check coolant strength, Good at -35 Celsius."

The service advisor told me the coolant was jelling which caused the problem.

It works fine now. Just makes me wish I had taken it in three months ago rather than waiting until the heater is no longer necessary.
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