backing plates rusted out. How difficult to replace myself?

hw138 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-23-2010, 02:07 PM

Both sides are rusted out. Any handy tips on changing these out?

Thanks in advance.

Swim100flyy · #2 (**permalink**) 10-23-2010, 03:43 PM

What do you mean by backing plate?

**ALTIMA2.5SL** · #3 (**permalink**) 10-23-2010, 04:41 PM

i assume he is talking about the rear backing plate, the thing all the e-brake components attatch to, difficulty is hard to say because if you have never meesed with drum brakes before or brakes in general its gonna be a little difficult

hw138 · #4 (**permalink**) 10-23-2010, 05:22 PM

Yes, sorry about that. I mean the backing plate for the rear e-brakes. Does it involve removing the wheel bearings? Haven't messed with them before.

trooplewis · #5 (**permalink**) 10-23-2010, 06:31 PM

I know you can take the rear wheel bearing off without removing the backing plate, so I don't think it will be that much of a chore. The bearing/hub is just held on by 4 bolts that are easy to remove.

**ALTIMA2.5SL** · #6 (**permalink**) 10-23-2010, 07:21 PM

i can tell you exactly what it will envolve tomorow afternoon when im done doing my brakes, if you can wait that long. If i remember maybe ill snap a few pics for you

**ALTIMA2.5SL** · #7 (**permalink**) 10-25-2010, 05:55 PM

sorry no pics, but you have to remove the wheel and all the brake components and the the backing plate is held on by the hub so your gonna have to remove that, i would recomend just replacing the brakes while your in there since your gonna have it all apart anyway, unless they have already been done recently

peelman · #8 (**permalink**) 03-21-2012, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALTIMA2.5SL

sorry no pics, but you have to remove the wheel and all the brake components and the the backing plate is held on by the hub so your gonna have to remove that, i would recomend just replacing the brakes while your in there since your gonna have it all apart anyway, unless they have already been done recently

are the backing plates a dealer item only?. They want over $120CND per side. What a load of crap that is.

Evolution · #9 (**permalink**) 12-10-2012, 03:10 PM

Hey y'all...

So I too need to replace my brake shield / rear backing plate, both in the rear and in the front.

Using the link supplied, I found the rears here, priced at $71 per side. From what I've read here, the rear is fairly easy to replace...I just need to remove the rear hub w/4 bolts. (?)

What about the fronts though? Searching the forums here didn't turn up too much. What I found on the parts site is here. What doesn't make a bunch of sense is that it lists that price as only $8.50 each. (Suspecting it says I need two of them because it doesn't differentiate left/right like the rears.)
Why ya think this plate is a fraction of the price of the rears?
Anyone have personal instructions or FSM instructions? Or should I bite the bullet and go to the stealership?

(The rears I can probably do myself. And I need to do it soon before the snowfalls. I don't want all the snow & salt getting into my parking brake assm that I finally got properly rebuilt this year)

the.wong.kid · #10 (**permalink**) 12-10-2012, 03:47 PM

the front and rears are about the same. u need to remove the wheel, all brake components, wheel hub/bearing. the fronts, ull have to loosen the axle nuts and shaft. ull also have to remove the wheel speed sensor also (these are a pita when they are frozen on, ull know that when u try to take the 10mm nut off an it wont budge. breaking the sensor is a costly repair) i avoid that by breaking off the back part of the wheel bearing shield where the sensor sticks in and then pull the hub off not nicking the sensor.

imo i would just cut the shields and sand down the sharp edges, to save the money

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Evolution · #11 (**permalink**) 12-10-2012, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the.wong.kid

...the fronts, ull have to loosen the axle nuts and shaft. ull also have to remove the wheel speed sensor also (these are a pita when they are frozen on, ull know that when u try to take the 10mm nut off an it wont budge. breaking the sensor is a costly repair)

I'll have to see if I have an impact socket big enough to fit the axle nut. And lucky me, my car managed to be built without traction control, so no wheel speed sensors to break.

By chance do you know the torque spec for replacing the axle nut?

the.wong.kid · #12 (**permalink**) 12-10-2012, 04:26 PM

axlenut should be a 32 or a 34mm, just go to your local rent a tool place (advanced, autozone and ask to rent axle nut socket set) i do not have the tq spec off the top of my head

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