DTC P0300-Multi Misfire - 2003 Altima - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
DTC P0300-Multi Misfire - 2003 Altima

On January 21, 2011, while driving to the post office after visiting my sister, the Service Engine Soon light was blinking on and off and finally it stay on. The car was idling rough. I got to the post office and shut my car engine off. I went into the post office and started my car after leaving the post office. The car ran fine and it was no longer idling rough. I drove home and called the Nissan dealership. Since January 21st was a Friday, I was scheduled an appointment for Monday. I drove the car Saturday and it ran fine. On Sunday, it was idling rough as soon as I started the car. I drove it to the shopping center about a mile away and it got to engine temperature. It was idling rough at this time and until I got it back to my home. I took the car into the Nissan dealership on Monday and here is what was written on the service ticket: C/S Check Engine Light On

DTC P0300-Multi Misfire, Runs good at this time, spark plugs look OK. Pressure tested coolant system, no leaks. Suspect head gasket leaking when cold. Suspect extreme cold causing head gasket to leak. Recommend replacing and cleaning injectors. Possible damage to exhaust manifold convertor.

The dealership has requested that I return if the Service Engine Soon light comes back on.

I've driven the car since visiting the dealership and the car has idled rough on at least 3 - 4 different occasions. There were a couple times it happened first thing in the morning and there was a time it idled rough when the car was at engine temperature.

I remembered on December 19, 2011, I filled my car at the gas station when a tanker truck was on site filling the station's gasoline storage tanks. I talked to several of my friends who are automobile mechanics about this problem. They all thought it might be a fuel system issue. I followed the recommendations of one of my friends and put in the Chevron injector cleaner and a bottle of dry gas right before filling my gas tank. I had no problems with the car idling rough for five days. After the 5th day, it started to idle rough when I started it, the first thing in the morning. It has also idled rough on two different occasions on the following day after filling up my gas tank.

I'd like some recommendations from you on how to pin point the problem with the car idling rough. You recommendations will be appreciated.


Spook
Spook is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 03:07 AM
Majestic '06 3.5SE, 5 spd
 
froedrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 4,007
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 17
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
I've had this issue twice and both times it was caused by a crack in the intake before the throttle body. The first time it was a cracked resonator( the big plastic thing that sits perpendicular to the intake hoses and just acts as a sound deadener). The second time I had my WAI already installed which is what I did to correct the first problem. I had a faulty air filter which had a crack between the filter media and the mounting flange. Both times the code and SES were caused by an "intake leak". Not a serious problem, but needs to be fixed so you don't ingest dirty air. This can be caused by other things too, but I'm just relating what happened to me twice that gave me the same codes. Hope it helps.

Traded 10/10/11 for a 2012 Hyundai Genesis Track Coupe.
froedrick is offline  
post #3 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Froedrick, thanks for replying to my thread.

Spook
Spook is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 Old 03-28-2012, 11:22 PM
Altima36
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
2003 Altima misfire codes

I have had this same issue I changed the plugs and still had a misfire on 1 I replaced the coil drove it fine for a couple days without an issue. I started it one morning and it idled rough I would run a couple short errands then it would be fine usually on the second start after driving it a couple miles. I then replaced the PVC valve started right up after it was replaced drove about 50 miles restarted a few times no problem. I started it today idle rough drove with the engine light blinking for about a mile then the light went off and the car drove fine. I went to a autoparts place they hooked it up and it read P0300 where before it was a definite misfire on #1.
I did take it to the dealer when it first started to happen and they said I needed a new headgasket, evap tank and assembly about 1400K worth of work.
I do have this weird noise that swishing sound coming from the front when I go to stop or turn. I am wondering if the dealer was right about the headgasket I tend not to always rely on what they tell me.
altima36 is offline  
post #5 of 19 Old 03-29-2012, 05:14 AM
Shift_matic
 
sentinal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
LONG POST............
I have this same code. Just popped up a few days ago. First it was p0305 which was cylinder 5 misfire. So I changed all the spark plugs and felt like it was idling even rougher after the change. So I bought a new coil pack from Auto Zone and replaced cylinder 5's coil. The idle improved somewhat but the engine was still misfiring. So I scanned it again and now I have the vague p0300 (random/multiple misfire) code . I even hear pops from the exhaust now. When I changed the plugs I noticed that cylinder 3 had thick black grease/gunk around the boot of the coil and the bottom part of the plug (opposite of the tip). And cylinder 5 had carbon dust or some sort of dust and looked really dry compared to the other shiny coil packs. I also noticed that while screwing in cylinder 3's plug, the spark plug socket would stay stuck onto the plug. I had a hard time bringing it back up attached to the extension. So I believe a bunch of grease/gunk was still in there. Additionally, as I was tightening the IM bolts the nut nearest the drivers side just spun infinitely, I must have over torqued it. I don't think there's a leak through there because the other 4 were tightened in the correct order and the EGR is also holding that side down, but I may be very wrong. Don't think its the MAF because I can rev past 3k. Don't think its a HG because I don't have any oil in my coolant, white smoke, or receding coolant levels.
Codes I had before this: P0420 (catalytic malfunction), P1273 (A/F sensor malfunction). And I also have a dead oil pressure switch/sensor, but I doubt its related.

Here's what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs (NGK Iridium)
- Changed coil #5
- New front Cam POS (rear of engine, bank 1)
- Cleaned air filter
- Took out all injectors and replaced o-rings
- Cleaned all connections for coils and injectors.
- Tested front 3 coils, cylinder #5 coil, and front 3 injectors by disconnecting them while engine is running. Those are good.

Game plan from here on:
- Look for intake leaks
- Clean cylinders #3, #5 with a rag wrapped around an extension.
- Drop a Tbsp of ATF into each cylinder
- Check fuel injectors with multimeter
- Move the front coils to the rear since I know they are good. Rear to the
front and test those.
- Replace PCV valve
- Fuel injector cleaner through fuel
- Seafoam through brake booster and fuel
- Replace rear Cam POS (front of engine, bank 2)
- Replace Crank Sensor
- Replace both A/F sensors (its time anyways)
- Get exhaust/catalytics checked for clogs

If none of that solves it then I will have no choice but to take it the dealership and have them scan it with the Consult II and see what they come up with. Hopefully they can tell me what it is and then I'll just replace it myself. Once or If I ever solve it I will come back and post what the solution was. For now the car will stay parked.


_____________________________
Mods:JWT Popcharger, NWP VIAS & Spacers, 2 Timing Advance, Hawk HPS, over drilled RotorPros rotors,Techna-fit SS Lines, S5 clone grill< LED swapped gauges, CF interior trim, DDE's, footwell lights, 3K HID fogs THREAD HERE > Nitto Invo 245/40/18
Fluids: Amsoil ATF, Amsoil DOT3, Dist. H20+RL Water Wetter,Rotella T6 5w40, 93 Octane
Dyno231WHP/225WTQ <-youtube

Last edited by sentinal; 03-29-2012 at 12:05 PM.
sentinal is offline  
post #6 of 19 Old 03-30-2012, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Altima,
Thanks for the reply. I have been driving my car like this for over a year and a half. I do
not want to spend any more money on my car since I have 191K on it. I warm my engine (about 3 - 5 minutes) before I leave my parking spot. This seems to help with the misfire issue. I seem to have fewer of them. Do you plan to have the dealership replace the head gasket and evap.? If so, let me know how your car runs after the dealership completes this work.

Spook
Spook is offline  
post #7 of 19 Old 03-30-2012, 04:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal View Post
LONG POST............
I have this same code. Just popped up a few days ago. First it was p0305 which was cylinder 5 misfire. So I changed all the spark plugs and felt like it was idling even rougher after the change. So I bought a new coil pack from Auto Zone and replaced cylinder 5's coil. The idle improved somewhat but the engine was still misfiring. So I scanned it again and now I have the vague p0300 (random/multiple misfire) code . I even hear pops from the exhaust now. When I changed the plugs I noticed that cylinder 3 had thick black grease/gunk around the boot of the coil and the bottom part of the plug (opposite of the tip). And cylinder 5 had carbon dust or some sort of dust and looked really dry compared to the other shiny coil packs. I also noticed that while screwing in cylinder 3's plug, the spark plug socket would stay stuck onto the plug. I had a hard time bringing it back up attached to the extension. So I believe a bunch of grease/gunk was still in there. Additionally, as I was tightening the IM bolts the nut nearest the drivers side just spun infinitely, I must have over torqued it. I don't think there's a leak through there because the other 4 were tightened in the correct order and the EGR is also holding that side down, but I may be very wrong. Don't think its the MAF because I can rev past 3k. Don't think its a HG because I don't have any oil in my coolant, white smoke, or receding coolant levels.
Codes I had before this: P0420 (catalytic malfunction), P1273 (A/F sensor malfunction). And I also have a dead oil pressure switch/sensor, but I doubt its related.

Here's what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs (NGK Iridium)
- Changed coil #5
- New front Cam POS (rear of engine, bank 1)
- Cleaned air filter
- Took out all injectors and replaced o-rings
- Cleaned all connections for coils and injectors.
- Tested front 3 coils, cylinder #5 coil, and front 3 injectors by disconnecting them while engine is running. Those are good.

Game plan from here on:
- Look for intake leaks
- Clean cylinders #3, #5 with a rag wrapped around an extension.
- Drop a Tbsp of ATF into each cylinder
- Check fuel injectors with multimeter
- Move the front coils to the rear since I know they are good. Rear to the
front and test those.
- Replace PCV valve
- Fuel injector cleaner through fuel
- Seafoam through brake booster and fuel
- Replace rear Cam POS (front of engine, bank 2)
- Replace Crank Sensor
- Replace both A/F sensors (its time anyways)
- Get exhaust/catalytics checked for clogs

If none of that solves it then I will have no choice but to take it the dealership and have them scan it with the Consult II and see what they come up with. Hopefully they can tell me what it is and then I'll just replace it myself. Once or If I ever solve it I will come back and post what the solution was. For now the car will stay parked.
my other thread is exactly like this... and maybe it inherant issue with the VQ?

My code was a misfire on bank one, and to check the CPS...
well the CPS is reading fine as per a mechanic I brought it to, however he thinks that the Cam sproket on the intake side is gone, which messes up with the CPS, as the CPS is what engages the solenoid to move the cam's angle to increase advace or retard back
so as its worn, the theory is that its off by upwards and beyond a tolerance of 8 degs... now requiring a timing chain and sproket job

of which now i'm being quoted to just replace the engine instead...

sigh, I don't know... I'm brining my car to get diagnosed at Nissan, as an independant mechanic may be more self serving than a dealer? maybe?
r3cc0s is offline  
post #8 of 19 Old 03-30-2012, 04:33 PM
Altima36
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
I am going to replace the crank shaft position sensor and cram sensor tomorrow, i did call the dealer and all the recalls are up to date i bought the car 4 years ago I wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything If this does not help
then I'm going to have the head gasket replaced not by the dealer bc of cost
I work from home IT software and fly out when I have to travel which I do frequently
The car has been pd for I don't want to buy something new to sit in my driveway. I will let it idle and see if that helps. I will let you know what happens
altima36 is offline  
post #9 of 19 Old 04-01-2012, 02:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
2 places where I went, diagnosed that the CPSs were giving the correct mAF voltage (5.6 I think?)

anyways, at idle my cam is off by 35 degress... as such, it needs a new timing chain and cam sprocket

which also means, that I need a new exhaust manifold, as I have essentially ruined my cat, which also means that I have burnt rings from block back, and will be burning oil...

that means huge money
r3cc0s is offline  
post #10 of 19 Old 04-04-2012, 02:42 AM
Shift_matic
 
sentinal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Daaaamn, sucks to hear that r3cc0s. I have a feeling I may have the same issue. I hope that I'm wrong, if it does turn out to be a timing chain issue then I think I might have a mechanic pull the engine and just replace the main timing chain, 2 secondary chains, tensioner, slack guide and whatever else is needed. Plus, install the headers that I've had in storage for over 3yrs. As for the burning oil issue, I burn a little bit but not enough to get a different engine. A different engine would probably end up having the same issues with the timing chain so no point in putting an engine with flawed parts.


_____________________________
Mods:JWT Popcharger, NWP VIAS & Spacers, 2 Timing Advance, Hawk HPS, over drilled RotorPros rotors,Techna-fit SS Lines, S5 clone grill< LED swapped gauges, CF interior trim, DDE's, footwell lights, 3K HID fogs THREAD HERE > Nitto Invo 245/40/18
Fluids: Amsoil ATF, Amsoil DOT3, Dist. H20+RL Water Wetter,Rotella T6 5w40, 93 Octane
Dyno231WHP/225WTQ <-youtube
sentinal is offline  
post #11 of 19 Old 04-04-2012, 05:21 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal View Post
Daaaamn, sucks to hear that r3cc0s. I have a feeling I may have the same issue. I hope that I'm wrong, if it does turn out to be a timing chain issue then I think I might have a mechanic pull the engine and just replace the main timing chain, 2 secondary chains, tensioner, slack guide and whatever else is needed. Plus, install the headers that I've had in storage for over 3yrs. As for the burning oil issue, I burn a little bit but not enough to get a different engine. A different engine would probably end up having the same issues with the timing chain so no point in putting an engine with flawed parts.
unlike I belive... a solenoid based vtech, our cam phasers in conjunction to the CPS variate the degrees of what to advance/retard the intake cams

appparently wear on the phasers (my engine had 131k km) is not uncommon... and this work is not uncommon

problem is, the timing chain kit, engine removal, and phasers (cam sprockets) all add up to being $3100 CAD if not more, if I have more damage.. i.e. issues with valves or rings (burning oil?)

I found a 50k km engine cheap, and it has a 90 day warranty... so I hope it still has alot of life in it
r3cc0s is offline  
post #12 of 19 Old 04-04-2012, 12:59 PM
Altima36
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
replaced the cam and crank

I replaced these and the car ran perfect for 5 days started right up no rough idle it was great but yesterday got I got in the car as soon as I started it I knew it was bad same thing rough idle. Not as bad as it had been but I had no engine light on for 5 days and the car ran perfect I dont understand what is going on doesnt make any sense.
altima36 is offline  
post #13 of 19 Old 04-04-2012, 02:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by altima36 View Post
I replaced these and the car ran perfect for 5 days started right up no rough idle it was great but yesterday got I got in the car as soon as I started it I knew it was bad same thing rough idle. Not as bad as it had been but I had no engine light on for 5 days and the car ran perfect I dont understand what is going on doesnt make any sense.
it was the same with me... it was come and go at first

I replaced my CPS's, tried another buddy's MAF, ran seafoam, got an injector flush, checked the coil packs and changed the spark plugs

ends up it was wear on my cam sprockets (phasers) and its apparnetly common
r3cc0s is offline  
post #14 of 19 Old 04-10-2012, 01:10 AM
Shift_matic
 
sentinal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Update:
I took the car to a mechanic today and had it scanned with a more a advanced scanner. He was able to do something that revved the engine just a little above idle and then started disabling cylinders. I don't know exactly what he was disabling whether it was the coils, injectors or both but when he disabled cylinders #1, and #3 the engine speed did not change. Meaning those are having issues. He even disabled both at the same time and nothing changed.

So before I had attempted to fix anything I had cylinder #5 misfire. I changed all the spark plugs and coil#5. Then got a random/multiple cylinder misfire (p0300). Now for some reason the bank nearest the firewall (bank1) is where the issues seem to be. I find it weird that all 3 coils would go in such a short period of time. When I replaced the plugs I noticed on Cy#3, this thick gunk/grease. Could it be an injector issue?

Any ideas or suggestions?


_____________________________
Mods:JWT Popcharger, NWP VIAS & Spacers, 2 Timing Advance, Hawk HPS, over drilled RotorPros rotors,Techna-fit SS Lines, S5 clone grill< LED swapped gauges, CF interior trim, DDE's, footwell lights, 3K HID fogs THREAD HERE > Nitto Invo 245/40/18
Fluids: Amsoil ATF, Amsoil DOT3, Dist. H20+RL Water Wetter,Rotella T6 5w40, 93 Octane
Dyno231WHP/225WTQ <-youtube
sentinal is offline  
post #15 of 19 Old 05-23-2012, 10:47 PM
Shift_matic
 
sentinal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Update #2:

I have low compression in cylinders #1, and #3. Piston rings are damaged and I suspect it was the catalyst material from the pre-cats. For awhile I had that rotten egg smell which I ignored. So no matter how on top of maintenance I was, ignoring the signs of a bad cat are catastrophic. Therefore, the car is going in for a heart transplant this weekend. Here's what's going in:

-28K mile engine (04 maxima)
-Wrapped ebay headers
-oil pressure sensor/switch (SER version)
-Replacing secondary chains, tensioner shoes, and various seals/o-rings in that area.
-Full set of Racingline MMIs

I'll try to take as many pictures as I can and I may make a thread about the "transplant"


_____________________________
Mods:JWT Popcharger, NWP VIAS & Spacers, 2 Timing Advance, Hawk HPS, over drilled RotorPros rotors,Techna-fit SS Lines, S5 clone grill< LED swapped gauges, CF interior trim, DDE's, footwell lights, 3K HID fogs THREAD HERE > Nitto Invo 245/40/18
Fluids: Amsoil ATF, Amsoil DOT3, Dist. H20+RL Water Wetter,Rotella T6 5w40, 93 Octane
Dyno231WHP/225WTQ <-youtube
sentinal is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum > Nissanclub.com Nissan - Infiniti Enthusiast Forums > NISSAN ALTIMA FORUMS > 2002-2006 Nissan Altima Forums > 2002-2006 Nissan Altima Discussion (2.5 & 3.5)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome