Serpentine Belt DIY? 2.5? - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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#1 Old 04-16-2011, 12:17 AM
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Serpentine Belt DIY? 2.5?

I've looked the best I know how to on here for an instructional on how to replace the Serpentine Belt on my girls 05 2.5. I couldn't find one. I would guess there has been one made one here somewhere along the way.

Anyone able to help me out here?
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#2 Old 04-16-2011, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by wrestlerguy04 View Post
I've looked the best I know how to on here for an instructional on how to replace the Serpentine Belt on my girls 05 2.5. I couldn't find one. I would guess there has been one made one here somewhere along the way.

Anyone able to help me out here?
make sure you've done a search. it's in here somewhere. also there's a youtube for 3.5.

I - Majestic Blue - I - 2005 2.5S Altima - I
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#3 Old 04-16-2011, 08:15 AM
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Is the 3.5 the same process?
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#4 Old 04-17-2011, 01:06 AM
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Hey,

I actually did the serpentine belt on my own for my 05 Altima 2.5. It's really not difficult at all. I had to do it cuz I failed inspection cuz of it and Pep boys was charging me like $50+ for the labor and another $40 for the belt. I did it all in half an hour and bought the belt online for around $20.

To make the job a whole lot easier, and I mean a WHOLE LOT easier, take the Passenger side tire off and pull the fender cover/ wheel well out. You just need to pull it out enough in order to get access to the belt pulleys. I really recommend having your car on a jack stand for this and place the tire under the front of the car. Safety!

On the passenger side of the engine near the bottom half you need to look for the tensioner pulley. You can use the owner's manual to help you identify which is the pulley you should be looking for. The manual should also be able to help you understand how the belt will line back up in case you forget. Anyways when you see the pulley, you should notice it has a small bolt pattern in the center, I'm not sure what size. Maybe a 14? Don't take my word for it though. Use a wrench with one hand to help you twist/pull on this bolt to move the pulley inwards and release the tension on the belt. Use your other free hand to pull the belt away and then you can slowly let the tensioner pulley return to its free position. Now that the belt is loose you can literally pull it sideways and off, away from the engine.

Wrap the new belt around all the pulleys aside from the tensioner pulley. For this you will need to move around a lot as the belt will twist and pull and possibly slide of some of the pulleys as there is no tension holding it in place. Once it is in place and only the tensioner pulley is left just do what you did before, using one hand push the pulley away from you, using the other hand slide the belt in place then slowly pull the pulley back into place.

After all of that, just make sure everything lines up into place, and nothing if off. If everything is good, start the engine and watch the belt from a side, listen for any unusual sounds and inspect the belt to make sure nothing is wobbling or shaking. If everything is good, put the wheel well back in place and stick your tire back on. I never having changed a serpentine belt before and having no prior knowledge of the working of the belt was able to do it in half an hour. Good luck to you!
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#5 Old 04-17-2011, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ey3CoNz2 View Post
Hey,

I actually did the serpentine belt on my own for my 05 Altima 2.5. It's really not difficult at all. I had to do it cuz I failed inspection cuz of it and Pep boys was charging me like $50+ for the labor and another $40 for the belt. I did it all in half an hour and bought the belt online for around $20.
Thanks for this.

I bought my car used and now has 73,000 miles and I'm not sure if this has ever been done. How do I know when it needs changing?
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#6 Old 04-17-2011, 05:20 AM
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if you go to F.A.Q section..BT wrote a How to guide about this..


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#7 Old 04-17-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarackO'drama View Post
Thanks for this.

I bought my car used and now has 73,000 miles and I'm not sure if this has ever been done. How do I know when it needs changing?

Open the Hood and inspect the belt. A strong flashlight would really help. Inspect the back of the belt without the ribs, it should have no visible cracks or if it has any they should be few and far in between. Then check the inside of the belt with the ribs, this side will have a lot more cracks then the back but once again they should be far few and in between. If you can see many small cracks forming approximately a couple of mm apart from one another throughout the belt, it's time to change it.

http://cars.cartalk.com/content/advi...es/ctDrive.jpg

It's really up to the mechanic to decide whether you fail or not. It's easy money for them so I can't imagine why they would pass on an opportunity to fail someone for the belt. I make it a habit to inspect my car on my own before going and getting it done at a shop. Sucks having to pay and fail then pay again. Or pay a ridiculous labor and parts cost cuz you failed.
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#8 Old 04-21-2011, 05:45 AM
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I replaced my drive (aka serpentine) belt last on my 02 Altima. You need only one belt for Alternator, water pump, A/C, Crankshaft Pulley, and power steering. Your belt 2247mm long or 88.5 inch, 6 ribs. Its a 15-20 min. job. You don't need the tool

Operation: You are standing in front of your car (front grill). Pull the belt toward you. Grab the topside (alternator) and you can see the Tensioner move/rotate. Just inside the tensioner housing is sort of a wing or extension with a hole. It moves with the tensioner. Next to it is the stationary wing with a hole. Just pull the belt until the holes lined up. Then insert a short screw driver, or a 2-3 inch bolt, or anything sturdy that fits the hole. This will lock the tensioner and loosen the belt and remove.

For easy access and routing of the new belt, raise the passenger side wheel and remove. Also remove the splash guard curtain. You have to go under, so make sure you have the proper support, not just the tire jack. If you don't have a floor jack, use the tire placed next to jack. for me, I have a 2 Ton floor jack and the tire jack.

When you install the new belt, pull it a few times to make sure its installed properly. When done, pull the belt toward you again and remove whatever you use to lock the tensioner. Reinstall the splash guard and wheel. Start engine and road test.
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#9 Old 04-21-2011, 12:54 PM
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How much should I be able to move or pull the belt? Basically know when it's over tightened or under tightened.
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#10 Old 04-21-2011, 08:21 PM
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The two holes are only about 3/4 inch apart. You pull with your left hand and insert with your right hand when two holes line up. The tensioner is smallest of all pulleys.

Try out before you do the actual work. Also what you are going to use to lock the tensioner.

The tensioner will Automatically adjust. There is nothing to tightened
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#11 Old 04-22-2011, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ey3CoNz2 View Post
It's really up to the mechanic to decide whether you fail or not. It's easy money for them so I can't imagine why they would pass on an opportunity to fail someone for the belt. I make it a habit to inspect my car on my own before going and getting it done at a shop. Sucks having to pay and fail then pay again. Or pay a ridiculous labor and parts cost cuz you failed.
Where do you live that they can fail you for a serp. belt? here in PA I can fail ppl for alot of things but a serp. belt is not one of them
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#12 Old 04-23-2011, 10:33 PM
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I agree. It sounds like the shop is just trying to make a quick buck off of you. If I were you, I'd quit going there and take my car to another shop that wasn't trying to rip me off. Any shop here, and I mean ANY shop here would pass you, and tell you that you need to change your belt,.. not fail you. That's ridiculous.
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#13 Old 04-23-2011, 11:40 PM
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#14 Old 04-25-2011, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTIMA2.5SL View Post
Where do you live that they can fail you for a serp. belt? here in PA I can fail ppl for alot of things but a serp. belt is not one of them
Really? I didn't know that, I live in Long Island, New York. It was at a Pep Boys. I argued with the mechanic for a while and he continued to tell me I failed and owe him either for the replacement or $37 for the fee and I take the fail. I took the fail, fixed it and went elsewhere and passed.

It pissed me off a lot too, since I know my belt was still good but the guys was being an ass. He said he is failing me for safety. I guess that makes sense but I shouldn't be able to fail for that.

Last edited by Ey3CoNz2; 04-25-2011 at 03:37 AM.
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#15 Old 04-29-2011, 10:08 PM
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This is a great project for a DIY'er. I just did it on my car, a '05 with 96k miles.

I used the method described by Ey3CoNz2, and simply moved the tensioner with the wrench in my left hand, and slid the belt off and on with my right. I didn't bother locking the tensioner in place, which the workshop manual describes. Don't accidently turn the bolt counter-clockwise and accidently loosen the tensioner. If loosened, the workshop manual says the tensioner must be replaced.

I can confirm the wrench needed is 14MM. The longer the wrench, the easier it is to apply force. I could see how using a socket wrench wouldn't work. It's a little intimidating lying underneath the car, applying force to the engine. Support your vehicle properly! I used a 2 ton floor jack, a jack stand, and the wheel under the body.

I replaced the OEM belt with the Duralast 885K6 Belt for $17. Aside from cracking on the ribbed side, the OEM belt looked to be in good condition, and ready for another several thousand miles. Oh well, I'll keep it as a spare.

Chuckie
'05 Altima 2.5S, 119K.
Fixed: Rust holes in floor
Replaced: CP sensor, Header without precat, alternator
Maintenance: Oil, trans fluid, brake pads & rotors, battery, serpentine belt.
I'm Never buying a Nissan ever again.
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