Hello Nissan folks,
I am going to post a thread about how to replace 06 Altima 2.5S front wheel bearing on the driver side.
I am a novice but with lots of internet research and effort, I finally made it without a mistake.
*Due to the picture upload restriction, 5 images per thread. I am sorry that I was only able to upload five images here. In addition, when I was on the FAQ page of 2002-2006 Altima to post this thread, I found that I was not allowed to post any new thread on the FAQ section. I think this is because of some kind of restriction on a new member.
By doing this job, you can also replace brake pads, disk rotor, outer and inner tie rods, wheel hub, wheel bearing, steering knuckle, transverse link(low control arm) including low ball joint, shock absorber(strut) and even drive shaft(cv axle) as well.
***Please be advised that I can not be responsible for any damage done to you or your vehicle during your work. Work at your own risk!
***First of all, as we all know, your safety is your top priority. Always doublecheck your jack and jack stand to prevent your vehicle from falling.
1. As you all know, jack the vehicle and brace the vehicle with a jack stand to support it more safely.
2. Loosen five 21 mm wheel nuts and remove the tire.
3. Put the tire underneath the vehicle to brace the vehicle.
4. Now loosen two 14 mm bolts holding the caliper and remove the brake pads and caliper from the torque member where the caliper sits on.
I want to suppose that you know all the procedure above. sorry for no pictures for the procedure. Removing the caliper and brake pads is not a difficut job. But be very careful with the brake line.
5. Hang the caliper on the suspension spring with bungee cords and make sure the brake line is not twisted. Otherwise, it may cause a costly repair. I can not stress enough on this step since the brake line leakage is such a critical issue. Double or triple check is requied!!
6. Now locate two 19 mm torque member bots and remove them. Then, you can remove the torque member and the rotor. When I did the job, the rotor did not come off right away so I used the rubber mallet to take it out. Hit around the center not the rotor disc surface.
7. Remove the cotter pin which is fitted into the hole on the end of the drive shaft and use an air impact wrench to loosen the 32 mm axle nut and take it out of the drive shaft.
8. Locate the cotter pin and the 19 mm tie rod nut and remove both. When you are done, you may need to strike the matal part of the knuckle assembly with a hammer in order to separate the rod from the knuckle unless you already have a special tie rod removal tool. Remember why I am doing this is to save money not to possess all the tools that are not commonly used. Therefore, hammering should be fair for this case. -_-
Do not hit the bolt thread or the rubber part of the tie rod. Only hit the matal part of the knuckle where the tie rod bolt fits into.
After you remove the tie rod, do not turn the steering wheel to either direction or the vehicle steering could be out of center. Also as you can see, my driver side outer tie rod boot was torn. I did not have time to replace the rod at the moment so if you see that yours is torn, you should buy the rod and replace the bearing and the rod at once since they both require wheel alignment service.
9. Remove the 19 mm strut nut while holding the 17 mm bolt with a wrench. Do it over for the second nut.
10. Now tap on the end of the drive shaft with a flat screw driver and a hammer in order to take it out of the wheel hub assembly that is the part of the knuckle assembly.
Support the drive shaft with a jack or a jack stand so that it does not sag too much since it has a certain weight. In addition, do not damage the boot or the thread of the drive shaft. Otherwise, you will need to buy new one.
11. Locate the cotter pin and the 22 mm low ball joint nut and remove both. To remove the whole knuckle assembly from the transverse link(I think it's also called low control arm), you need to hammer the metal part of the knuckle where the ball joint bolt thread is inserted into. Do not damage the ball joint bolt thread or its rubber boot. As aforementioned above, there is also a special tool to separate the knuckle from the transverse link(low control arm). However, I want to do it inexpensive way so I did hammering. -_-
In my case, it did not come out right away like the tie rod, either. Therefore, I had to hammer the metal part for a while to separate it from the transverse link.
12. Now you are ready to take this whole knuckle to the machine shop having a press. Buy a bearing from any auto part shop in advance. In my case, the job only took a mechanic 20 to 30 minutes to get it done. The charge should vary by machine shops.
Don't forget to ask a mechanic to put two snap rings back into both sides of the knuckle after the bearing replacement.
13. The installation is the reverse order of the removal.
14. After you have done all the job completely, you should get a wheel alignment service.
Hey guys, You can also check its video version on Youtube by clicking the link below.
Tire wheel five 21mm nuts: 80 ft-lb
Caliper two 14mm Bolts: 20 ft-lb
Torque member two 19mm nuts: 110 ft-lb
Tie rod 19mm castle nut: 25 ft-lb
Drive axle 32mm nut: 200 ft-lb
Strut (shock absorber) two 19mm nuts: 103 ft-lb
Low ball joint 22mm nut: 58 ft-lb
Thank you for reading and good luck!!