I'm helping my son buy a car. He likes Altimas and based on the budget we are probably looking at a 2003-4. Since he will be driving quite a bit we're probably looking at a 4 cylinder for the gas mileage. Had a couple questions, I tried the service department at a local Nissan dealer and they couldn't tell me. Hopefully someone here can:
What is the recommended replacement (miles) for the timing belt? Approximately how much is this?
I know there is an issue with catalytic converter pieces being sucked into the engine (happened to my nephew's 2002). Anyone know the % of cars that end up with significant problems due to this design? Was there anything done after the 2002 model year to help mitigate this?
Anything else Altima specific we should be looking at?
What is the recommended replacement (miles) for the timing belt? Approximately how much is this?
I know there is an issue with catalytic converter pieces being sucked into the engine (happened to my nephew's 2002). Anyone know the % of cars that end up with significant problems due to this design? Was there anything done after the 2002 model year to help mitigate this?
Anything else Altima specific we should be looking at?
The 4-cylinder has a timing chain, designed to last the lifespan of the engine. Nissan got that right.
If it's never been changed, the crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced. The stock CPS will begin to fail, and eventually your car will not start. You can do it yourself for $30, or have the dealer do it for at least $150.
The catalytic converter on the exhaust manifold breaks apart somewhere around 100K -150K miles. This is known to exist in all 2002 - 2006 models. If the precat was never changed or removed, avoid these high mileage cars like the plague.
Look for rust holes in the body underneath the driver and front passenger seats. Do an internet search for rust holes and Altimas. Ugly stuff.
Honestly, if I had the chance to buy another 3rd gen Altima, I wouldn't.
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Chuckie
'05 Altima 2.5S, 109K.
Fixed: Bad CP sensor, rust holes in floor, replaced header and removed precat,
Maintenance: Oil, trans fluid, brake pads & rotors, battery, serpentine belt. I'm Never buying a Nissan ever again.
Sorry to sound like a noob. But how would I go about figuring out if I am burning oil?
Everytime I get my oil changed, none of the shops ever mentioned it being low. Should I just look at the dip stick after a change, note how high it is, and then check it like 1k miles later to see if it has changed?
the MPG diff is negligible. i would get him a used VQ, then u dont have to worry about precat probs too.
^^ This.
Packerjohn,
Some of us 3.5's even get better mileage than the 2.5's but if anything, they all generally are about the same. Of course, as a father, you may be need to consider how your son would drive with the power difference. There have been at least a couple of 3.5's with the pre-cat problem but it is a significant issue with the 2.5's.
As for anything else...look under the car for rust, particularly right under the driver and passenger floor boards.
__________________
03 Altima 3.5 SE 4AT
Berk V2 w/ Apexi ~ NWP VIAS Plate ~ Racingline FSTB, Grounding Kit, Battery Tie-down, Springs ~ KYB GR2's ~ UR Ultra Sc Pulley ~ BT Under hood and Trunk Lighting
i think the oil consumption is 1/2 misdiagnosis. imo valve cover leaks cause more of this "consumption" problem than is recognized. i had the leak, replaced the cover & my "consumption" problem was gone. the stealership stated the engine would fail within the year. that was 6yrs ago. i also get close to 29mpg.
a good vq will not give you many problems, i've had mostly old age suspension parts to die.
Hi guys thanks for all responses. Problem with the 3.5 is they are getting out of the price range I said would finance. Plus there aren't that many out there. Autotrader shows 19 within 200 miles of my location which would include Chicago, Milwaukee, St Louis and Indy for less than $7,500 asking price (I said I'd go $7,000).
As I mentioned, I'm familiar with the 2.5 cat problem as my brother in law is dealing with a 2002 2.5 that loses a quart of oil every 500 miles. I am also confused.
I'm a pretty big believer in Consumer Reports. Last year after my brother in law bought the car I looked at CR and they had it marked it based on their reader surveys as having significant engine issues. Due to the age, they don't have 2002 in the database any more, but the '03 and newer show the engine is average or better in reliability and the car is one of their recommended vehicles for mid-size sedans in its price range.
I know the basic pre-cat design is the same in the 2003 and newer. Was there some tweak to help mitigate the problems with the '03 and later.
Did you try craigslist or rhe marketplace boards here for an altima? I'd find it hard pressed to not see altimas for sale anywhere.
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I think the issue more my price point. As I mentioned, AutoTrader.com gave me 19 hits in 200 miles for a 6 cylinder for $7.500 or less. If I take out the price filter I get 291 hits.
I think the issue more my price point. As I mentioned, AutoTrader.com gave me 19 hits in 200 miles for a 6 cylinder for $7.500 or less. If I take out the price filter I get 291 hits.
Me personally, i think our gen altimas are vastly overpriced knowing all the problems we have. I would be looking for a low mileage vq or even a low mileage ser at that price point.
Cut the middle man out and search alternative places. You have a zip code i can help u search in?
Some of us 3.5's even get better mileage than the 2.5's but if anything, they all generally are about the same. Of course, as a father, you may be need to consider how your son would drive with the power difference. There have been at least a couple of 3.5's with the pre-cat problem but it is a significant issue with the 2.5's.
As for anything else...look under the car for rust, particularly right under the driver and passenger floor boards.
Was looking at a car and the dealer said they were sending it out to get the rust holes patched. His understanding was it wasn't a structural issue. Is there any issue after a good repair is completed? Thanks.
Was looking at a car and the dealer said they were sending it out to get the rust holes patched. His understanding was it wasn't a structural issue. Is there any issue after a good repair is completed? Thanks.
No, but a lot of us have coated ours with truck bed liner to try and control the rusting.
If you buy a 2.5 and it's consuming oil, then the precat has already failed and damaged the engine (stay clear of it).
Check your state laws on returning a car. If you find out after you buy one it's using a bunch of oil I'd return it. I'd drive the heck out of it after you buy it and watch that dipstick or maybe you'll get lucky and find one with a header?
Problems you could be looking at over 100k.
Engine damage from precat
engine damage from loose butterfly valve screws
Front struts need replaced
Rust
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