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Altima 3.5 EGR Location

36K views 26 replies 7 participants last post by  flyerslife5 
#1 · (Edited)
I have seen a lot of questions regarding the location of the electronic EGR valve in the 3.5 engines. I replaced my sparkplugs today in my SE-R and finally found it. I took the top off of the valve (not off in any of the photos) and noticed the spring was sticking when pushing it up and down and cleaned it all out until it was nice and smooth operating. To take off the entire valve looks like it requires quite a bit more of work to gain access. It is on the driver's side underneath the air intake pipe coming from the air filter housing box. The last picture is a pulled back photo taken from the front driver's side. I took the pipe off that comes from the intake manifold and goes to the EGR valve and cleaned it out. You can see it slightly separated in the pictures.
 
#2 ·
Nice pics man. To everyone who doesn't know where to find the EGR valve, if you remove the engine cover and your (stock) air box and intake up to the throttle body, look right underneath the TB and you'll notice a thin wire covered in a white cloth that runs to the EGR. Careful, these are very delicate and dont break The little clips, otherwise it just hangs there and can easily get snagged on something - I think its the EGR temp sensor maybe or Something close. You will also see a piece of flanged, 1" tube that goes from the intake manifold to the EGR and then down underneath to the exhaust manifold as well. There are 2 coolant lines that run in/out of the EGR as well. I would buy new gaskets before you take this apart which are pretty cheap anyway, but they will be all warped from the "second-hand smoke" and passing hot exhaust back up into the engine. One last thing, keep an eye open for debris from your catalytic converters in there which kinda resembles like very thin, jagged pieces of a metallic material. If you find any in there, you have a failed PreCat. Best thing to clean them out with is either Seafoam Deep Creep or Berkbile 2+2, a skinny stick or hanger and a toothbrush and spray it good and let soak for a bit, work at it until the valve and spring both work freely. Wear a back brace, it's basically 4 inches above the trans - best of luck,
I will try to find another diagram too that goes along with Sptt's work. Have at it! I will post a diagram soon. Thanks.



From my iPhone
 
#26 ·
Nice pics man. To everyone who doesn't know where to find the EGR valve, if you remove the engine cover and your (stock) air box and intake up to the throttle body, look right underneath the TB and you'll notice a thin wire covered in a white cloth that runs to the EGR. Careful, these are very delicate and dont break The little clips, otherwise it just hangs there and can easily get snagged on something - I think its the EGR temp sensor maybe or Something close. You will also see a piece of flanged, 1" tube that goes from the intake manifold to the EGR and then down underneath to the exhaust manifold as well. There are 2 coolant lines that run in/out of the EGR as well. I would buy new gaskets before you take this apart which are pretty cheap anyway, but they will be all warped from the "second-hand smoke" and passing hot exhaust back up into the engine. One last thing, keep an eye open for debris from your catalytic converters in there which kinda resembles like very thin, jagged pieces of a metallic material. If you find any in there, you have a failed PreCat. Best thing to clean them out with is either Seafoam Deep Creep or Berkbile 2+2, a skinny stick or hanger and a toothbrush and spray it good and let soak for a bit, work at it until the valve and spring both work freely. Wear a back brace, it's basically 4 inches above the trans - best of luck,
I will try to find another diagram too that goes along with Sptt's work. Have at it! I will post a diagram soon. Thanks.



From my iPhone
 
#4 ·
Well, my check engine light came back on so I will need to get in and replace the EGR valve. Does anyone know if you can remove it by taking off the airbox and throttle body only? I saw a picture of this orientation but could not tell if it was accessible enough to remove but it looked like it might be.
 
#6 ·
I might be missing something here (I don't have the car in front of me) but the battery and battery tray are nowhere near the EGR valve (which is back by the firewall). The battery is located on the front left of my car. How does that help with access? Thanks.
 
#9 ·
Ok. I went ahead and ordered the new EGR and gaskets. I had my hands on it before but couldn't remember how the battery tray limited my access as I was able to get to the front of it no problem but the back bottom nut to the exhaust and the two attachment bolts looked a little tight. Once I'm in, I'm sure it will make sense. Thanks again.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Got new EGR in mail today. Took me 2.5 hours to remove and install. Just took off the air intake and throttle body to get access. Hardest part was getting the rear nut off the egr since I didn't have a large enough crescent wrench. Hint: Try to get the pipe off the back first before removing the mounting bolts. I had to put them back in to crack the nut on the back (couldn't remember steps listed in order). Ended up using a monkey wrench and tapping end with a long screwdriver and rubber mallet to crack it loose. Did not have to remove the battery tray to do it but did have to bend the coolant hose clip below the front mounting bolt to get a wratchet head and extension in there (it's all I had with my tools that would acccess and turn to get the bolt cracked). The back bolt is easy. EGR valved was full of pre cat debris and piston was even sticking (after I removed the debris) when trying to push it down. Probably just due to lots of wear and carbon build up inside. See pics below I took the head off the old egr to check out the piston smoothness/action. Second and third pictures are of new EGR installed. Thanks Adomzz for the assist!
 
#12 ·
Hardest part was getting the rear nut off the egr since I didn't have a large enough crescent wrench. Hint: Try to get the pipe off the back first before removing the mounting bolts. I had to put them back in to crack the nut on the back (couldn't remember steps listed in order). Ended up using a monkey wrench and tapping end with a long screwdriver and rubber mallet to crack it loose.
This is where I have gotten stuck 3 times. I can never find a wrench big enough to get that rear nut off. I don't have a monkey wrench so I guess I need to invest in one. How large is the wrench you used? If I remember correctly, there isn't a lot of room to work back there.
 
#11 ·
Thread moved to appropriate location
 
#13 ·
I was able to get a large adjustable wrench on the nut...just barely. I angled it square on the nut so it ended up facing at a slight angle back towards the brake booster and firewall. Also had to fit it under the two large hoses. Then I took a long screwdriver and stuck the flat head end into the hole at the end of the wrench and tapped it with a hammer and it just gave. When I was trying to push down with my hands and arms I couldn't get a good angle downwards or apply enough pressure. You just need to get a big enough wrench to fit on the end then use a method that allows you bang down on the end to break it free. I thought I was screwed until I tried that. :lock:
 
#15 · (Edited)
FYI..that nut comes off counter clockwise like normal. Once you get a wrench on it just arrange the end of it to go under those hoses that will be in the way (you can see the two of them in my pulled back picture). It should point at an angle towards the bottom corner of the driver's side windshield. Then get something long to hold pressure down on the end of the wrench and either muscle it down loose or tap it with the mallet (just do the mallet). I was surprised how easy it cracked after nearly dislocating my right shoulder socket and collar bone from trying to push the wrench down at that angle. and cursing at myself. After that it spun right off with the fingers. Let me know what happens. You can do it!
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the heads up. I have the PB Blaster on stand by just in case. I just purchased 2 adjustable wrenches so hopefully one will work. Picking up my new EGR valve and gasket tomorrow, & hopefully I'll be up and running by Saturday afternoon. Thanks for all of the great info & wish me luck.
 
#20 ·
No. There should be some coolant coming out of the little hoses as it runs through the egr valve to keep it at a certain temp. Your EGR is probably still bad even though there is no debris. The electronics in the piston head can go bad and cause it to not operate properly. Glad you got it. How did you get it to come off? Been a while.
 
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