The Nissan Club banner

Engine whining noise

53K views 45 replies 6 participants last post by  M-train 
#1 · (Edited)
2005 Altima SE-R Engine whining noise

I drive a 2005 Nissan Altima SE-R with 197,000+ miles on it. It has just started making a whining noise from the engine bay. I'll put up some videos below.

Some background on some recent work I've just done and had done.

So, I got new tires (I know this has nothing to do with it) and I just got an oil change and they used a Synthetic Blend ($40 oil change!). I usually...always change it myself but I was getting tires and an inspection so I was like whatever. They then told me and showed me I had a bad front motor mount. I didn't like their price, so I took it upon myself to do it.

I bought a MotorKing front motor mount off eBay because it was only $50, so I thought I'd take the gamble and if it didn't work out I'd go OEM.

Amazon.com: #49EL A7349EL 112708J10A 02-09 Nissan Front Engine Motor Mount (with Sensor) Altima Maxima Murano Quest 3.5L V6 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09: Automotive


Well it was a pain to install, but I got it installed. And while installing I notice I was seriously low on coolant; I took out my radiator to do the motor mount because it made it so much easier. So, I added coolant and the next day there was steam from where I had a coolant leak, so obviously coolant got everywhere under my hood. I a proceeded to put more coolant in again, so try and find out where the leak was...so more coolant got everywhere.

Also regarding the motor mount, after installing it I have somewhat of a vibration at idle. Nothing huge, but definitely noticeable after install.

I also noticed that it seemed that my valves were making some noise...ticking (before this noise started), so I was in AutoZone getting something else and I got some STP High Mileage stuff that was supposed to help, I also got some Techron fuel system cleaner b/c the dude gave it to my for like $2.

The noise seemed to start happening the day or day after I put both of these things in, but most of this stuff had been done within a week or 2.

I've tried to locate the noise and can't really seem to find out exactly where it's coming from. I did notice that the alternator was vibrating some. But, it seems that it's coming from the front or the left side of the engine.

So, here's where I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Could this noise be coming from where my oil was changed with Synthetic oil and some sludge maybe broke loose?
Could it be from the motor mount install, where it's now vibrating some at idle and something might be loose?
Could it be from coolant getting onto the alternator and now it's going bad? My voltmeter seems to be reading normal values.
Could it be from the STP crap I put in the engine or the Techron fuel stuff?

Or anything else you can think of.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OO6gEIXl1JA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSrcMKxR6UQ

And I just got a new radiator and plan to put it in within the next couple nights.

Any help is appreciated!
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Yea that was actually my first thought because I haven't had that problem yet (I've read that thread many times), but I've heard the noise that makes from other videos and it really doesn't seem to be the same noise. However, it very well could be that, it just seems so coincidental that it just started happening right after doing these few things.

I bought my car in 2008 with 34K miles on it, I've been meaning to call the dealership I bought it from to see if my car had that service done. Because I believe the TSB was first released in 2007, although I know there have been some revisions to it.
 
#5 ·
Not sure about the whining noise, but I can tell you that the vibration is normal with an aftermarket mount. OEM mounts are softer (and better quality) rubber, so they don't cause vibration. Cheaper aftermarket ones, however, use harder rubber which will cause vibration and/or shaking at idle depending on how hard they are. As long as it doesn't bother you, no harm done. Aftermarket ones also don't tend to last that long due to the excess vibration.
 
#6 ·
So, I've got kind of an update on this. I was going to change the oil filter out tonight, but before I done that I wanted to clean up the engine bay since there was anti-freeze all over everything. And to preface this, my car has been immediately making this noise when starting ever since it has started happening. After spraying the engine down with some water..car was off. I started it to pull it back in the garage and noticed that the noise wasn't there anymore. Then, it started about 10 or so seconds after I started my car.

So, I cut it off and sprayed it down pretty good where all the pulleys and belts are. I started it back again and no noise. Then, a few seconds after I started it I hear a belt squealing noise for a few seconds. And after that the original noise started again.

All that being said, I done think this noise is the oil filter, timing chain, or even anything internal to the engine.

Think it's a belt? I mean I'm sure anti-freeze did get on the belts, and I've heard it's not very good for them.

Or could it be a pulley or something else around there?
 
#8 ·
Good suggestion, maybe it's the bearing making the noise from getting antifreeze on it. I'll check it out tonight.

If that's it maybe I can give it a good cleaning and it'll be good. And I'll probably go ahead and replace the serpentine belt for good measure since I'm sure antifreeze got on it. I really don't want to replace the power steering belt again if I don't have to. That was a pain.
 
#11 ·
Replaced the belt and still the same noise. I took the idle tensioner pulley off last night and it really looked to be fine.

And after doing some looking around right now I'm thinking it may be the alternator bearings. So, I may try and take the alternator off hopefully tonight and clean it up.

Here's a couple videos of bad alternator bearings:

Alternator bearing bad noise sound? Laturin laakeri ääntää? - YouTube
Alternator repair : Noisy Bearings replacement - YouTube

And here's mine again:
2005 Nissan Altima SE-R 3.5L engine whine (engine bay) - YouTube

I think it's a pretty similar sound. But, since the sound goes away when I get it wet hopefully I can clean it up and fix it.
 
#13 ·
So, I done the "broom handle test" and the noise really seems to come from the alternator. I'm really thinking the alternator bearing. Seems like kind of a PITA to replace though, and if I mess up and don't have an alternator I'm kind of SOL since my 240SX is having problems of it's own (haven't felt like messing with it in over a month) and I'm not keen on transporting my 7 year old around on my GSX-R haha.

I've found some pretty conflicting information about the alternator in the 2005 Altima. The FSM says one model, but the 2005 2.5 Altima uses the same model as the 2004 3.5 Altima...per the FSM. I think this is may be a mistake in the FSM because when I search for the one in the 2005 2.5 Altima it comes up with results for the 3.5. And I went to the dealership today and they said that they don't sell the bearing separately, but it looks like you can for the 2004 3.5 Altima.

So, I think I'm going to try to take the alternator off and apart to clean it up and see if that fixes it. Apparently you have to take the radiator out to remove the alternator, I really wish I'd done that this past weekend when I replaced my radiator...oh well.
 
#14 ·
I know you have to take the radiator out to do an alternator on the 3.5, its surprising you have to do it on the 2.5 too though. Anyway, if you can verify that the part #'s are the same for the 04 3.5 and 05 2.5 alternators then I would definitely try replacing the bearing. Are you talking about the actual pulley/bearing that the belt sits on or the internal bearings?
 
#15 ·
No, I don't think that the 2004 3.5 and 2005 2.5 have the same alternator, I think that the FSM is wrong.

Here's what it has in the 2004 FSM:
QR25DE: HITACHI LR1100-734
VQ35DE: HITACHI LR1100-721

And this is in the 2005:
QR25DE: HITACHI LR1110-721
VQ35DE: HITACHI LR1110-726

When searching online for the 721 everything that comes up is for the 3.5.

But when looking at the 726 number it comes up with the 2.5 and cross references back to the 734 number.

For example:
LR1110-726,HITACHI LR1110-726; Alternator

Anyways, I'm kind of thinking the internal bearing, but it could be the pulley one. I should know some more information as to which alternator it is when I take it off and find a number on it...hopefully. If it's the same, which I think it will be and it's still making noise after I clean it and maybe throw some lube on it then I'll just order the parts from an 04 3.5.
 
#16 ·
As far as I know, it's the same part (Hitachi 110A, 6S pulley) for all 02-06 Altima 3.5. They all seem to be dying about the same time...see my thread from July and a better one with full pictorials shortly thereafter in this forum. FWIW I put in a $120 Pure Energy 13940N (new unit) and it was fine right up until a senior totalled the car for me.
 
#17 ·
I was actually going to say that, if changing out the internal (or external) bearings doesn't work, just get a nice Pure Energy one from RockAuto for $117 + shipping. And I would imagine that any 02-06 alternator designed for the 2.5 would work, they probably just had small changes in output or something.

But if rebuilding your current one works then by all means do that! It's cheaper and still OEM.
 
#19 ·
Oh right, I missed the SE-R part. Then yes taking the rad out is a definite. Nissan probably just used a different alternator for the SE-R than the standard 3.5 Altima's. I would just use whatever rockauto recommended from Pure Energy (assuming the rebuild of your current one doesn't work out).
 
#20 ·
Yea so I just checked out my alternator a bit...didn't take it out but cleaned it up some and found a number on it (you can see it from the engine bay to the left of the large plug on top of the alternator). And what I can see is LR11???721C (I'd assume LR1110-721C). So, it looks like the FSM is wrong and it is the same alternator as the 04 3.5 and I'm sure the 02 and 03.

Hopefully I'll get to taking out the alternator sometime soon and cleaning it up and checking it out.
 
#21 ·
Well I worked from home today and in between a few work things I got the alternator out...well kind of. The alternator plug is completely broken and I can't seem to get it disconnected from the alternator. See pic below:

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...Vf6Ar2rvH2k/w1218-h685-no/20141022_133009.jpg

Here's a video of me turning the alternator pulley with it out.

2005 Nissan Altima SE-R alternator - YouTube

And here's something I noticed when I turned the pulley to the AC compressor, kind of like bells ringing.

2005 Nissan Altima SE-R AC compressor pulley noise - YouTube

I really don't want to have to take the alternator off and risk messing up the harness if I don't have to. Any idea what the AC compressor pulley noise is about? Could it be the problem?
 
#22 ·
Alright so I decided to put a new idler pulley on there and it still made the noise after putting that on there. So, I now know it's not the idler pulley. And I really don't think the noise is coming from the AC compressor, so I'm really still leaning towards the alternator.

I think I may just get me a new alternator. When I took it out today there was a lot of crud in it. I may call a few places tomorrow to see what they charge to change it because I really don't want to break that wiring harness because I haven't seen where you can purchase that separately.

Any thoughts on how to get that plug out in this picture?

 
#24 ·
See this part I circled?



You need to get the remaining part of the clip out with a pick or needle nose pliers, that's what's keeping it in. It looks like the right side already broke out, but the left is still partially in there. A pick set works well here. After you get that leftover piece out, it should pull right out, if it doesn't try wiggling two picks in either side while pulling on the connector. Whatever you do, don't pull on the wires themselves.

The only real place to get a new connector would be at the junkyard. You can de-pin connectors like these with a small enough pick and/or paperclip usually.
 
#25 ·
Yea I had actually called a few junkyards looking for one today but no luck, I just don't have the time to drive around to different ones. Not many 3.5 Altimas. I may try and grab one off of a 2.5 and see if it's the same. And I believe the 2004-2008 Maxima's may work as well.

I actually just thought of another idea and I'm pretty sure I can do this. I should be able to start/run the car without the serpentine belt, right? Obviously, the alternator won't turn and charge the battery, but I just want to start it for a few seconds and see if it makes the noise. Then, I'd definitely have it down between the AC compressor and alternator.
 
#27 ·
Well the power steering has a belt of it's own, so I'd actually have power steering. Just not AC and an alternator. But, I'm not gonna drive it anywhere, just crank it for a few seconds.

I'm gonna try that tonight, just to see if it still makes the noise or not. If it doesn't then hopefully tomorrow sometime I can pickup a plug from a junkyard (even if it's from a 2.5). And get an alternator and hopefully have it next week to install.
 
#28 ·
Alright, took the serpentine belt off and started it. And there was no noise.

So, that can really leave it to like 4 parts.

Belt - already replaced.
Idler/Tensioner Pulley - replaced
AC Compressor
Alternator

So, it's either the AC compressor or alternator and my money is on the alternator. Pretty much knew this before, but I'm much more positive now.

Looks like I'll be trying to find a plug that goes in the alternator in case I mess up the one that's in there.

Any thoughts on the best way to connect the old wires to the new plug? I've got a soldering iron and have done a few things with that before. Just not sure any kind of plastic connector would be good right next to the heat of the engine.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Actually that connector belongs to the rectifier pack which is a fairly common formfactor across a *LOT* of different Nissan's and other even other alternator makes. Something like this would do you

Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals

or

Alternator Repair Plug Harness Connector FOR Maxima Murano I30 I35 Nissan | eBay

Personally, you should be able to study the pics of the connector at the ebay link and figure out how to release your existing plug intact. While not ideal, you will be able to just friction push it back in and it will probably hold there for the remaining life of the car and then some...or put a little blob of silicone once in (and still clean), or wrap the connector with a 2 layers of teflon tape, or .....

If you do splice a new connector in, make sure to use heatshrink and a good iron/good solder and tape it all afterwards. This is not a high current plug (that's the B terminal stud), but your alternator won't charge the battery properly if the connectors are poor.

D
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top