Camshaft, crankshaft, or TP sensor? - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 05-26-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Camshaft, crankshaft, or TP sensor?

After installing my new motor (05 2.5l) and double checking my work I was finally able to get her started last night which is major progress!! However the rpms are seriously low and the car won't stay cranked very long. 15-30 seconds. When I push the gas pedal there is absolutely nothing or the car will shut completely off. It also is idling right around 1,000 but it drops significantly until it shuts down in the 30seconds.

I've checked the fuel pump, it's pumping good and giving me plenty of pressure. I am getting good spark, no blown guesses or lose grounds

Could it be the TPS? I have an extra throttle body, and some injectors lying around because the new motor came with them but I decided to use the intake already attached to the fuel line

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post #2 of 29 Old 05-26-2017, 01:51 PM
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Have you done all the idle relearn stuff?
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post #3 of 29 Old 05-26-2017, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Have you done all the idle relearn stuff?
Actually I haven't because I can't the car cranked long enough. Is it safe to try the relearn without it running. The first part saysnto let car warm up to operating temperature but it's summer and very HOT so maybe that won't be an issue?
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post #4 of 29 Old 05-26-2017, 08:22 PM
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Does it run if the MAF is unplugged (disconnected, not removed)?

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post #5 of 29 Old 05-27-2017, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Does it run if the MAF is unplugged (disconnected, not removed)?
Inunplugged it and nothing changes. Also tried spraying some starter fluid to keep the engine running but that doesn't help. And it shuts off within 30-15 seconds and even faster if the gas petal is pressed.
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post #6 of 29 Old 05-27-2017, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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So after doing some checking my problem was a crack in the CAI hose right before the MAF. Went to the junkyard, called them and had them pull the hose for me ahead of time spent $7 bucks total and it fired up like normal and accelerates likes it should for the most part. I'm still trying to performe the idle relearn procedure. Well I've tried it twice rpms is at about 7-800 service engine light still on
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post #7 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 02:18 PM
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A crack before the MAF shouldn't make any difference. What matters is anything after the MAF when the air is 'metered', but you should be able to remove anything prior to MAF, hoses, air filter, housings whatever and no change. A big crack in the flex hose going to the throttle body would make a difference...if that is in fact what you replaced.

What trouble code is it throwing now?

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post #8 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
A crack before the MAF shouldn't make any difference. What matters is anything after the MAF when the air is 'metered', but you should be able to remove anything prior to MAF, hoses, air filter, housings whatever and no change. A big crack in the flex hose going to the throttle body would make a difference...if that is in fact what you replaced.

What trouble code is it throwing now?
My bad. I guessing I should say a hole in the old intake hose. It was a split/hole about the size of a pinky finger on the back of the hose. Replaced it and it runs fine no issues now *knocks on Wood*
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post #9 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Also my OBDII isn't showing any codes. It hasn't since I installed the motor but the service engine light is on. I'm assuming it could be from not using a spacer on my o2 sensor to manifold but that's for another thread

Also thanks Doug for the help! You had u not told me to unplug the sensor I probably would've never noticed the hole.
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post #10 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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And I just noticed what u mean. Yes it was a hole in the flex hose attached to the throttle body
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post #11 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendrick Addison View Post
Also my OBDII isn't showing any codes. It hasn't since I installed the motor but the service engine light is on. I'm assuming it could be from not using a spacer on my o2 sensor to manifold but that's for another thread

Also thanks Doug for the help! You had u not told me to unplug the sensor I probably would've never noticed the hole.
Hey, you're very welcome! Thanks also for sharing with us the fix for your problem too....everyone wins that way.

I would expect if the CEL/SES light is on, then there should be stored codes, can your OBDII reader reset codes?

I would expect the light to be on if you replaced your precat with a straight header, but it should still throw the old P0420 (low cat efficiency) or similar.

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post #12 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I replaced the Precat with a 4-1 style header for a Sentra because it was $25 cheaper than the exact same 4-1 style for the Altima. I've read a soacer will fix that issue.

Also I'll try to reset my scanner and see if I get any codes this time. Should the car be cranked or simply powered on
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post #13 of 29 Old 05-29-2017, 09:32 PM
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Ignition on should be enough to power the OBDII port and your scanner. No harm if engine running. You may just not have driven enough to auto clear codes you have now fixed.

There are number of way of cheating the lower O2 sensor...usually 1 or 2 stacked spacers will do the trick.

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post #14 of 29 Old 05-31-2017, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Ignition on should be enough to power the OBDII port and your scanner. No harm if engine running. You may just not have driven enough to auto clear codes you have now fixed.

There are number of way of cheating the lower O2 sensor...usually 1 or 2 stacked spacers will do the trick.

Hey Doug! So I finally got to do a test scan and I didn't get anything about the O2 sensor but here's what did come up

P0340 Cam sensor sensor A circuit bank or single sensor

P0113 Intake air temp sensor circuit high

P0223 Throttle pedal position sensor switch b circuit high

P0123 Throttle pedal position sensor switch A circuit high
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post #15 of 29 Old 05-31-2017, 02:03 PM
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Wow, any one of those could cause issues, though the pedal sensor seems a bit weird. You are absolutely in the year range to need a new Cam position sensor though...and you'll want to make sure you get the one with the metal cylinder design and not the rectangular black plastic sensor from the aftermarket guys.

Intake air temp sensor can also mess things up, but is probably a dealer part.

Does this car or engine have any history of fire or flood damage?

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