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Camshaft, crankshaft, or TP sensor?

3K views 30 replies 2 participants last post by  d0ugmac1 
#1 ·
After installing my new motor (05 2.5l) and double checking my work I was finally able to get her started last night which is major progress!! However the rpms are seriously low and the car won't stay cranked very long. 15-30 seconds. When I push the gas pedal there is absolutely nothing or the car will shut completely off. It also is idling right around 1,000 but it drops significantly until it shuts down in the 30seconds.

I've checked the fuel pump, it's pumping good and giving me plenty of pressure. I am getting good spark, no blown guesses or lose grounds

Could it be the TPS? I have an extra throttle body, and some injectors lying around because the new motor came with them but I decided to use the intake already attached to the fuel line
 
#2 ·
Have you done all the idle relearn stuff?
 
#4 ·
Does it run if the MAF is unplugged (disconnected, not removed)?
 
#6 ·
So after doing some checking my problem was a crack in the CAI hose right before the MAF. Went to the junkyard, called them and had them pull the hose for me ahead of time spent $7 bucks total and it fired up like normal and accelerates likes it should for the most part. I'm still trying to performe the idle relearn procedure. Well I've tried it twice rpms is at about 7-800 service engine light still on
 
#7 ·
A crack before the MAF shouldn't make any difference. What matters is anything after the MAF when the air is 'metered', but you should be able to remove anything prior to MAF, hoses, air filter, housings whatever and no change. A big crack in the flex hose going to the throttle body would make a difference...if that is in fact what you replaced.

What trouble code is it throwing now?
 
#9 ·
Also my OBDII isn't showing any codes. It hasn't since I installed the motor but the service engine light is on. I'm assuming it could be from not using a spacer on my o2 sensor to manifold but that's for another thread

Also thanks Doug for the help! You had u not told me to unplug the sensor I probably would've never noticed the hole.
 
#11 ·
Hey, you're very welcome! Thanks also for sharing with us the fix for your problem too....everyone wins that way.

I would expect if the CEL/SES light is on, then there should be stored codes, can your OBDII reader reset codes?

I would expect the light to be on if you replaced your precat with a straight header, but it should still throw the old P0420 (low cat efficiency) or similar.
 
#12 ·
Yes I replaced the Precat with a 4-1 style header for a Sentra because it was $25 cheaper than the exact same 4-1 style for the Altima. I've read a soacer will fix that issue.

Also I'll try to reset my scanner and see if I get any codes this time. Should the car be cranked or simply powered on
 
#13 ·
Ignition on should be enough to power the OBDII port and your scanner. No harm if engine running. You may just not have driven enough to auto clear codes you have now fixed.

There are number of way of cheating the lower O2 sensor...usually 1 or 2 stacked spacers will do the trick.
 
#14 ·
Hey Doug! So I finally got to do a test scan and I didn't get anything about the O2 sensor but here's what did come up

P0340 Cam sensor sensor A circuit bank or single sensor

P0113 Intake air temp sensor circuit high

P0223 Throttle pedal position sensor switch b circuit high

P0123 Throttle pedal position sensor switch A circuit high
 
#15 ·
Wow, any one of those could cause issues, though the pedal sensor seems a bit weird. You are absolutely in the year range to need a new Cam position sensor though...and you'll want to make sure you get the one with the metal cylinder design and not the rectangular black plastic sensor from the aftermarket guys.

Intake air temp sensor can also mess things up, but is probably a dealer part.

Does this car or engine have any history of fire or flood damage?
 
#16 ·
Definitely weird. I changed the camsensor toa new metal one to no avail. So I checked the harness and right st the connector the wire was frayed and touching so I spliced the connector clip hat came with the new motor and and bam the check engine light it is off and now the obdii isn't picking up any codes
 
#17 ·
That's more like it....I had a feeling it was harness related (hence fire and flood comment). That's two 'eagle eye' points to you for spotting the hole and the frayed wiring! That explains the 'die on rev' thing too...as the engine will rock slightly when the RPMs pick up and that's probably enough to short/open the sensor wiring. As we know, these engines don't run with bad CPS's.

So are you in the clear now?! 8)
 
#18 ·
I'm in the clear, KINDA. Scanned again, and the obdii is now telling me I have a misfire from cylinder 3. Which I already knew I had a bad ignition coil for about a week now. New coil set should be in any day now and that should clear that up

Could you by any chance post accurate idle relearn, pedal relearn, and idle air relearn procedures. I wanna do all 3 just be sure and I can't find accurate tps relearn info any where. Well I found it once, thought I took a screenshot but I guess I didn't.
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
Coil pack came in today. I installed them and did the full idle relearn procedure. All codes went away. Service engine light went off. And car idles around 1100-900rpm(it slowly fluctuates). Not even 10 minutes after driving service engine light came back on, OBDII shows P0507 High rpm idle. Car currently idles around 1000 wit his an occasional drop. Or raise if I'm running AC
 
#21 ·
Sounds like you just need to set the idle properly. Some people have had to pull an injector connector to 'slow' the engine down enough for it to learn it properly. Try that...at least your code isn't directly pointing to spending more $...
 
#23 ·
So I came out and gave it another shot and was able to get it done without unplugging an injector! No codes and no check engine light!��
However when I shift into drive it pauses for a second or three before getting into action. I added a half quart of Castro transmax multi vehicle import. Guy at autozone said it was compatible. So anyway I added a half qt and it shifts smooth as ever but I get this burning rubber smell really bad. So I drain about a half qt back out thinking maybe I over filled it. The fluid was dark brown like black coffee with light cream. It also smells like it's been run through heavy machinery if you know what I mean. After draining about a half qt and going for another drive, it's back to pausing and then jumping into action but the burning smell is still there slightly. Not as strong as before though. Time for a change or bigger issues?


PS: transmission fluid was last changed last April when the first new motor was put in (they installed the new motor with same old failed Precat ����*♂ )
 
#24 ·
Sounds like your engine is good now, but 'fraid I'm not as handy with the tranny. @M-train might have some advice, but IMHO, burnt brown ATX fluid and a burning smell usually points to worn or slipping components inside. I don't think a fluid change will remedy this.
 
#25 ·
I called Nissan today toninqure about fluid. They told me their machines use matic D which is no different than Dexron iii. I then asked the guy about the ATF I used. He told me that transmax does "work" but the fluid itself gets hot and cooks in the machine. Hopefully that little half qt I put in is simply mixed in with the rest and hopefully anflish and refill can bring me back. The only reason I don't think the tranny inside components are bad yet because I don't smell it prior to adding the fluid. And it shifts fine when I added the half qt. I'll probably start with a fluid change this week and see how it goes.
 
#26 ·
Ok, I'm totally psyched to see how this project turns out, it would be so nice that a fluid flush'n'fill fixes all!
 
#27 ·
Hey Doug! Sorry for such a delay but major priorities first you know! Anyway, thanx for the good luck wishes, a fluid flush and drain did solve the problem! My fluid was dark brown so I drained about 5 qts and flushed about 2.5 qts. I flushed by disconnecting the first transmission line going to the radiator and then I connected a short piece of garden hose to extend the line out to my drain pale. I then fired the car up for about 3 seconds. Did it 3 times and stopped. Did feel the need to excessivley drain since research says the tranny only holds about 9qts anyway
 
#29 ·
Also, I used 4 qts SuperTech low viscosity dexron VI ATF and 3.5 qts of SuperTech high mileage Dexron VI ATF. Only bought the high mileage but because it's cheaper by the qt than standard low viscosity and it's about the same thing!
Just thought I'd post because i had trouble finding the correct ATF fluid
 
#31 ·
No meaningful connection between O2 and evap systems. Probably a fluke reading because your 'cheater' system isn't going to cheat perfectly all the time.

Evap leak could cause poor mileage as it's hooked into engine vacuum.
 
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