Hawk Performance Pads: HPS or Hawk PC?

Adrenaline718 · #1 (**permalink**) 04-10-2007, 06:09 PM

I know a lot of people on here have switched their pads over to Hawk Performance Street (HPS) which is a semi-metallic pad. How is the brake dust?

I did a search and saw several complaints about the dust, and I was wondering if anyone has tried out the Hawk NAO (Non-Asbestos Organic) formulation - Hawk PC: Performance Ceramic. This one should resemble the stock pads but with more braking power, and should be friendlier on the environment (if one is concerned about such things). Less brake dust should also mean less tiny metal chips digging into your paint on the quarterpanel.

I'm just curious if anyone has tried the Hawk PC and what their impressions are.

Part numbers:
Hawk HPS Front: HB448F.610
Hawk PC Front: HB448Z.610

Hawk HPS Rear: HB370F.559
Hawk PC Rear: HB370Z.559

Prices at Performance Nissan are almost the same for the semi-met and NAO, I was curious if anyone tried the PC. Thanks.

2005redser · #2 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 08:19 AM

A -
I ordered the PC yesterday. Will see if it gets rid of the shake in the steering wheel or if it's the rotors like I'm thinking. Post when you get the new flywheel and clutch in. 05:02:02 and counting!

**nismos14** · #3 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 02:41 PM

Pads won't cause a shake.

Adrenaline718 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 04:44 PM

Pads don't CAUSE the steering wheel judder, but changing the pads can alleviate the symptoms for about 5-10,000 miles until they seat in on the rotors again.

I sold brake pads to the carmakers for the past several years for a few Japanese pad producers. When there are warranty claims for steering wheel judder and the manufacturer doesn't want to make changes to the caliper actuation, or to the rotors, the easiest way to make the symptoms go away (not the root cause problem, but the symptoms) is to change the pad formulation. It's also the most cost-effective way.

2005redser is having the high speed judder at the steering wheel, and if the dealer says the rotors aren't warped or anything like that (which is probably unlikely) they will probably just suggest replacing the pads. I suggested to him that if they are replacing the pads anyway, why not put something better than the stock pads in there. Hence this thread.

**nismos14** · #5 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 07:00 PM

You might as well nip the problem in the bud and replace the rotors, then you don't have to worry about the shimmy.

05ALTIMASE-R · #6 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 10:36 PM

lmao you actually think that pads will stop a car from having a pulsation for up to 10k???? I dont care what you sold in the past ,present or future... the cause of the problem is the rotor!!!! he will still have the pulsation. The main reason of the pulsation is the lateral runout on the rotor caused by heat. The ONLY way to cure it is resurface or replace the rotor. the only way a pad can help is if the coeffiecient of heat is higher, thus holding the heat more then the rotor, and thats only if you replace/resurface the rotor.

also a main cause of pulsation is from the caliper sliders/pins not having good lube and getting bound causeing the caliper not to slide freely

azo_smith · #7 (**permalink**) 04-15-2007, 08:36 AM

Actually, another cause of your steering wheel shuddering could be that you hit a pothole and bent one of your front rims and it's now out of balance (happened to me). Before you worry about rotors, try switching your front wheels to the back (easy and quick to do yourself)...if the shuddering/wiggling goes away, that's your problem, if not, look to your rotors or something else as the cause.