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post #1 of 62 Old 07-30-2010, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Light and Low Pressure

05 6sp Se-r with 65k miles. Full synthetic oil every 7k miles, plus oil analysis at each change. About 4k miles since last change. Never had any signs of leaking and typically burn 0.5 quart over 5k miles.

Over the past 1-2 week period, I've notice more noise at cold start up than usual. Kinda odd since it summer. It only happens in the morning after sitting all night. My garage has a level floor. Then a couple days ago, the oil light flashed as I was pulling into the garage. I checked the oil and it was on the low side, but not bad. I added a half quart of oil, left over from the oil change. I typically add this at 5k miles. This brought the level to full. Still have the noise at start up and then today as I was coming through the parking lot at work, the oil light flickered again. I went back out at lunch and checked the oil. It is still full.

After sitting 4 hours, pressure was just over 60 at start up. Slowly dropped and leveled out about 40ish. Pressure drops to 0 at idle (7k rpm) though. No light. I don't think it is truly 0, but the gauge isn't very precise. It raises and lowers and appears to be correct. My first thought was oil pump, but it isn't consistent and 99% of the time pressure seems right.

So, I'm not sure what is going on. I picked up a new sensor and a test gauge. Thinking about checking the dash pressure against pressure gauge and figured I'd swap the sensor since it has to come out anyway. Does the small sensor by the oil drain plug provide the signal to the dash gauge and the low pressure indicator light?

I've read many of the low pressure posts here and none sound too good, but I'm not sure I'm in the same situation. Other than the 2 times the light has flickered and the 2-3 seconds of rattle on cold starts, it runs great. I'll probably just watch more closely for the next 1-2000 miles and then get an oil analysis and change the oil and filter. And no - its not a heat shield, I removed that already.


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post #2 of 62 Old 07-30-2010, 09:12 PM
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I hope you're still under warranty... it sounds like the infamous oil consumption issue. There are many, many threads about this - I'm sure you've seen them since you've been on this board since 06. Hope I'm wrong - good luck.

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post #3 of 62 Old 08-01-2010, 07:26 PM
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65k miles, eh? Yep - that's around the time when this problem arises. As G35 said, check out the other threads on this topic. Unfortunately, you are in the same boat.
Sorry man.
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post #4 of 62 Old 08-01-2010, 08:57 PM
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I dont think so...why would the oil light still flicker even though the oil level is full? I say that the oil pump may be on the way out, which is very deep in the motor, and outside of warranty, it is very expensive. If it turns out to be the oil pump, I would also consider having the timing chain fix done....engine is going to be torn down anyway. Would hate to have a new pump installed and THEN have to open the engine back up because the issues with the timing chain guides etc. start. Just my .02 worth.
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I hope you're still under warranty... it sounds like the infamous oil consumption issue. There are many, many threads about this - I'm sure you've seen them since you've been on this board since 06. Hope I'm wrong - good luck.





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post #5 of 62 Old 08-01-2010, 08:59 PM
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Btw...if the oil pump is replaced, ensure that you upgrade to the rev-up oil pump. It is qauite a bit more efficient and robust.





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post #6 of 62 Old 08-01-2010, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I'm covered by warranty with zero deductible up to 100k miles, so whatever happens I'm good. I just don't want to waste time at a dealer with "we don't see an issue" type BS, so I'll track it and watch it myself until something definite shows up. Even though I have a full coverage policy, I just assume fix the simple stuff myself and not waste my time with a shop. If it completely dies or need an oil pump, they can have it.

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post #7 of 62 Old 08-02-2010, 01:04 AM
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after u make those basterds fix it be sure to let us know what the " problem " was.

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post #8 of 62 Old 08-02-2010, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sily_Rabit View Post
05 6sp Se-r with 65k miles. Full synthetic oil every 7k miles, plus oil analysis at each change. About 4k miles since last change. Never had any signs of leaking and typically burn 0.5 quart over 5k miles.

Over the past 1-2 week period, I've notice more noise at cold start up than usual. Kinda odd since it summer. It only happens in the morning after sitting all night. My garage has a level floor. Then a couple days ago, the oil light flashed as I was pulling into the garage. I checked the oil and it was on the low side, but not bad. I added a half quart of oil, left over from the oil change. I typically add this at 5k miles. This brought the level to full. Still have the noise at start up and then today as I was coming through the parking lot at work, the oil light flickered again. I went back out at lunch and checked the oil. It is still full.

After sitting 4 hours, pressure was just over 60 at start up. Slowly dropped and leveled out about 40ish. Pressure drops to 0 at idle (7k rpm) though. No light. I don't think it is truly 0, but the gauge isn't very precise. It raises and lowers and appears to be correct. My first thought was oil pump, but it isn't consistent and 99% of the time pressure seems right.

So, I'm not sure what is going on. I picked up a new sensor and a test gauge. Thinking about checking the dash pressure against pressure gauge and figured I'd swap the sensor since it has to come out anyway. Does the small sensor by the oil drain plug provide the signal to the dash gauge and the low pressure indicator light?

I've read many of the low pressure posts here and none sound too good, but I'm not sure I'm in the same situation. Other than the 2 times the light has flickered and the 2-3 seconds of rattle on cold starts, it runs great. I'll probably just watch more closely for the next 1-2000 miles and then get an oil analysis and change the oil and filter. And no - its not a heat shield, I removed that already.
Your car idles at 7000 rpm?!! There's definitely a problem there...

But seriously, I would swap out the oil pressure sensor/switch first and see if that cures it. I had the oil pressure sensor go bad in my Buick twice and it produced very similar symptoms. The oil gauge would drop to 0 at idle and the oil light would come on, even though it was never low on oil. The pressure would be normal when under load. It even made the engine die out a couple times before it was fully up to operating temp. I was pretty worried until I noticed some oil around the pressure sensor and swapped it out. It fixed it for me, hopefully it does the same for you.

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post #9 of 62 Old 08-02-2010, 02:08 PM
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im pretty sure he meant 700 RPM not 7k because my SE-R does tghe exact same thing/exact same numbers at startup and at idle with the same oil pressures. i did have nissan look at it and test the gauge, the concluded that it is a bad oil pressure gauge and told me it would need to be replaced. i was also told that it is a very common problem with these gauges but still No Recall on them. im have come to the conclusion that the " Car Industy " has the Federal Gov't on the end of their puppet strings. do a search in the forums and you will find many people with the very same problem as us.

BTW I'm Sellin My 17" Drag Radials and Rims in the F/S section ( Free Advertisement ) HeHee. Here's the LINK for the Pics and Price : http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/par...dials-1-a.html

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post #10 of 62 Old 08-02-2010, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RealDealSE-R View Post
im pretty sure he meant 700 RPM not 7k because my SE-R does tghe exact same thing/exact same numbers at startup and at idle with the same oil pressures. i did have nissan look at it and test the gauge, the concluded that it is a bad oil pressure gauge and told me it would need to be replaced. i was also told that it is a very common problem with these gauges but still No Recall on them. im have come to the conclusion that the " Car Industy " has the Federal Gov't on the end of their puppet strings. do a search in the forums and you will find many people with the very same problem as us.
Ops, meant 700 not 7k.
So they told you the gauge was bad, not the switch?
What is the pressure supposed to be at idle?

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post #11 of 62 Old 08-02-2010, 02:46 PM
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the idle is supposed to be 5 psi. the oil pressure light comes on at 4psi. i never got a light but the oil pressure gauge problems your having are the same as mine. i was told not to worry. this was about a year ago and haven't had any issues so far. but since you got a light i would have it checked out by nissan. it costs 100.00 for the tests but you will be able to sleep at night.

BTW I'm Sellin My 17" Drag Radials and Rims in the F/S section ( Free Advertisement ) HeHee. Here's the LINK for the Pics and Price : http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/par...dials-1-a.html

Injen cai~UnorthadoX Lightened Pulley~Y-Pipe~Grounding kit.

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post #12 of 62 Old 08-04-2010, 02:56 AM
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Oil light came on yesterday, checked oil and was good. Took it in to nissan (center gauge was tripping all the way there) and they replased the oil pressure sender and the oil cooler o-ring. Changed my oil too all under warranty.
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post #13 of 62 Old 08-04-2010, 07:56 AM
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My oil light came on about 1 little less than a quarter mile after leaving my job today, it turned off for a couple minutes then turned back on. Then I noticed the psi gauge drop down to zero. It stayed there since. I travelled a good 30+ miles andthe light stayed on the whole time and gauge was just sitting @ 0. Reading all this different posts about psi dropping n needing to go deep in the motor to replace oil pump really got me scared as I just don't have the funds for such a repair right now. Any ideas or tips on how I can find out what's wrong with it? Even just a couple troubleshooting to help me rule out any easy fixes. I just want to make sure it's nothin little before I take it in and let the big guys chew up my wallet. I'll let u guys know what happens tomorrow morning when I leave for work.

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post #14 of 62 Old 08-04-2010, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ill05ser View Post
Oil light came on yesterday, checked oil and was good. Took it in to nissan (center gauge was tripping all the way there) and they replased the oil pressure sender and the oil cooler o-ring. Changed my oil too all under warranty.
were you havin gauge problems with the gauge before the light came on ? if so, was it the oil pressure sender that was the cause. why did they change the oil cooler o-ring ?

BTW I'm Sellin My 17" Drag Radials and Rims in the F/S section ( Free Advertisement ) HeHee. Here's the LINK for the Pics and Price : http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/par...dials-1-a.html

Injen cai~UnorthadoX Lightened Pulley~Y-Pipe~Grounding kit.

05 SE-R A/T
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post #15 of 62 Old 08-04-2010, 10:33 PM
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No problems with gauge before that. Oil light came on and then the gauge started tripping after that. They said the tech had recommended to replase the seal(which they replased a year ago). That took care of the problem tho. Dont know if it was the sender or the seal(seal was broken in half). Light is off and oil pressure is back to normal.
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