Good part- If i was you when i have the motor out. Go to nissan, find you a good tech ask him to come by your house and repair it for you. May cost a couple hundred but look at it like this... It will be done right. Something i will doing when its time for cams, but i will be replacing my motor at the same time.
I'm not going to ruin your optimism, because seeing someone who wants to tackle one of these projects without running to the dealer immediately is something you just don't see very often. However, lets be realistic here:
You will need, at minimum, access to a place where you can work on the car without having to move it, probably for days if not weeks at a time. Your first time doing a super involved job takes a long time. You will also need a well stocked tool box. You will not handle this one with a Stanley tool set from Wal-Mart. Invariably, at some point you will need to run to an auto parts supplier and buy some specialty tool that probably costs $200 (it seems to always work out that way with me). You will also need the downloadable Altima service manual.
It is my understanding that the chains must be replaced as well as they are a big contributor to the tensioner wear due to the sawtooth design.
I know some Nissan dealers do not remove the engine when replacing the tensioners and chain. There was a tech here who described the process but wouldn't share his tips because they were "trade secrets". Right..
Anyway, what I'm trying to say is, you may find yourself massively in over your head if the most involved thing you've done is spark plugs. I've rebuilt motors in my Grand Prix and Regal, I've swapped more transmissions than I care to count, I've helped friends with timing belt swaps on the GM 3.4 DOHC and even I admit I'm a little apprehensive about tearing into the VQ. Mostly because it's something I'm not used to, but I'm sure the whole thing is just a learning curve.
If you have the room and the tools, I say go for it dude. If you need some moral support, get some of your car smart mechanically inclined buddies (and I really do mean car smart, not someone who half-asses everything) together and fix that bitch! Don't pay the dealer 10x what it costs you do it. Good luck.
Nice, I think I might just get all the parts and find a good shop to fix it for me...Im in the military and have access to the auto hobby shop with a lift and all the tools that would be needed and also access to alldata there too (auto hobby shop). It would def take some planning to figure out the timing...ie renting a car, taking time off of work, all that good stuff!!!
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Wait, someone told me that the timing chain does not need to be replaced just tightened or something like that. It's different than the timing belt right. We don't really have a maintenance schedule for this repair right? What car sounds am I supposed to be hearing when the timing chain is going bad? Thanks for the help.
I don't know about the chain itself. There is no timing belt on these engines. Just chains. If a tensioner wears out, which seems to be what usually happens, it sounds like a buzzing noise from what I understand. Kind of like a chainsaw.
Traded 10/10/11 for a 2012 Hyundai Genesis Track Coupe.
In a perfect world, you shouldn't have to replace the timing chain. In Nissan's sick little world they made the chain nearly like the blade of chainsaw and it eats up the nylon tensioners over time ('05-06 for the third gens from what I understand).
While your in there it would be smart to just replace the chain too, but its your call. would really suck if you put it all back together, and the noise was still there because the timing chain itself was stretched. just my .02
Im a tech for benz, and they made some of our newer engines with a balance shaft for the v6 and a idler pulley for the v8's and used cheap material. so they throw CEL with codes for one bank cylinder always in retarted timing because the sprockets the chains ride on wear down causing a loose chain, faults come back instantly. to put it short we have had a couple after replacing the balance shaft/idler pulley throw the same codes because the chain itself was also stretched, even when Benz says chains never need to be replaced.
don't skimp out on big projects, do it right the first time. after all it is whats running your car
...Today is the day I start my Maxima for the first time in 2 weeks!!! :shakeshout:
I have been performing the dreaded Timing Chain/Tensioner replacement job and it has actually gone fairly smooth. I worked on it for 4 full days so far, by myself, and all I have left is to put on the main accessory belt, fill her up with oil and antifreeze, hook up my battery and turn the key... WISH ME LUCK!!!!
I have taken some pics along the way, these are just with my cell phone... more with camera to come. So I thought I would share for anyone interested in seeing this job in action...
First, here is a list of the items I needed to perform this job:
SOME NOTES TO REMEMBER:
Remember to change your water pump while you are in there (and don't forget the (2) additional M8 bolts needed to remove it!)
If you do not own a set of SAE Allen wrenches, you will need one in order to remove the tension side guide bolt inside the timing chain cover.
I COULD NOT have done this job without a breaker bar, 2 swivel socket adapters and various sizes of extensions for my ratchets (BOTH 3/8" and 1/2")
The plastic shielding on the back of my alternator was so brittle it broke to pieces when I handled it. I did not remove my radiator to get the alternator out, I simply removed the thermostat and lower radiator hose and it slid out (TIGHTLY) through that whole. I had mine tested while I had it out (100K miles on the car) and it checked out perfect (outputting slightly over 15 volts). I got some electrical parts cleaner and dielectric grease to try and protect the, now unshielded, solder joints.
Get both new accessory belts and replace them now. Now is the time since you have the power steering pump free anyway!
I did this job WITHOUT using any of the Nissan specified tools (J-50288 or J-50246) as they were on backorder. To get around this, I did three things:
1. I followed the accepted method of using a breaker bar and cranking the motor to release the crank bolt.
2. I kept all of the tensioners, guides and chains on while I broke the Camshaft sprocket bolts loose.
3. I bought and replaced the primary timing chain tensioner. Purchasing this piece gives you the needed "tool" so to speak in order to hold the secondary timing chain tensioners retracted while you work on each side.
BEFORE starting on this job, I HIGHLY recommend printing out all of the sections of the Factory Service Manual that relate to the timing chain job and putting them into a binder that you can keep with the car while this job is performed. IT IS A LIFESAVER!!! And make sure you print out all of the removal/installation sections for the alternator, power steering pump, water pump and AC compressor. This will ALL come in handy more than you realize.
This is the diagram that I used to set my timing. I turned the motor over manually until the timing marks lined up just like this. Then I just aligned all of the new equipment this same exact way.
I will say this: The primary timing chain has a goldish link and the other (2) links are a dark blue-ish color and do not look like copper. Finding them on the one on the car is difficult but they are apparent on the new one.
Perhaps the tension side guide uses a different material now? I know the color changed and feels like a different material...
Right side assembled
Left side disassembled
Secondary timing chain differences
Make sure they are lined up right!
And this is where I left her last night:drool5: I can't wait to get home and give her a turn. Any last minute recommended checks before I crank it up (besides saying my prayers)? Sure wish I could pull the plugs easily so I could rotate it manually and make sure she spins free... guess I'll just have to take that chance!
::EDIT:: The Max started right up with no issues just yet... only time will tell! Thanks!
If you have the required stuff to pull the motor/trans, then just pull it, will be faster pulling it and doing it out of the car then trying to do it with it in the car. but if not and you still want to do this then you can try, but its a HUGE job
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