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Old 03-17-2012, 01:30 AM
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Troubleshooting P0011 and P0021 codes

I have an 08 Nissan Altima SE 2.5 w/55k miles. I'm intermittently getting P0011 and P0021 codes.

They started happening a little while ago, I just changed oil couple days ago. Running Mobil 1 synthetic. I've run synthetic ever since I bought the car new. Oil level is fine. Oil changes have been regular.

Will periodically get one code (P0011 more often) or the other on start up... and may periodically get it soon after restarting warm engine.

Engine runs smoothly, no rough idle, nothing really odd. I have a ScanGauge II - so can monitor timing, RPMS, load, etc. Timing seems fine -- in fact, timing normally remains the same before and after the code is thrown.

Any suggestions on where to start? I've looked at the factory service manual for the location of the solenoids - but no mention of how to remove them. If anyone has tips, that would be great. I've seen prices of like $190 a piece online for the solenoids.

Just trying to see what I can do to troubleshoot - before giving up to a repair shop.

Last edited by jtatz; 04-10-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:15 AM
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did you get the codes before or after this last oil change? did you ever use any oil additives?
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 702L32 View Post
did you get the codes before or after this last oil change? did you ever use any oil additives?
Code started before oil change.

Nope.

Always used Valvoline or Mobil 1 synthetic. Never any additives.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:31 AM
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i guess you may have to change the sensor and maybe the solenoid too

u gonna go to the dealer?
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:31 PM
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P0011 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Possible engine lack/loss of power
- Posssible engine rough idle
Possible Causes
- Harness or connectors
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty
- Camshaft position sensor
Tech Notes
Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

-------------------------------------------

P0021 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 2
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Possible engine lack/loss of power
- Posssible engine rough idle
Possible Causes
- Harness or connectors
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty
- Camshaft position sensor
Tech Notes
Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:34 PM
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by the way, if you go to the dealer, they may charge you $120 just to do their diagnostics. They'll waive the fee if you choose to go through with the repairs.

They were going to charge me $120 to find out what my SES codes were and they have their own proprietary codes. When they checked the codes, their diagnostics came out with about 6-7 codes. I went to Aamco which is free by the way and I only got 2 codes which pointed to the cvt. I ended up getting my cvt replaced and for free since it was under the drivetrain warranty
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameguru1360 View Post
by the way, if you go to the dealer, they may charge you $120 just to do their diagnostics. They'll waive the fee if you choose to go through with the repairs.

They were going to charge me $120 to find out what my SES codes were and they have their own proprietary codes. When they checked the codes, their diagnostics came out with about 6-7 codes. I went to Aamco which is free by the way and I only got 2 codes which pointed to the cvt. I ended up getting my cvt replaced and for free since it was under the drivetrain warranty
I have the codes... so I don't need the dealer to pull them...

I've read that the 08 Altima is known for the solenoids being a common problem. (Here: http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...n-altima-2.htm , Check-engine light: The check engine light may illuminate due to failure of the intake valve timing control solenoid. (2008) )

Since there is a 5/60k drivetrain warranty - I would hope that it would be covered.

Anyone know how hard it is to pull the solenoids? Just curious, in case that is what I really need - and it's much cheaper to do myself.

If the dealer is likely to cover it, I'm inclined to go there... I've requested an appt to get it checked out. I imagine that's the only way I'll find out if they will cover it.

Last edited by jtatz; 03-17-2012 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameguru1360 View Post
by the way, if you go to the dealer, they may charge you $120 just to do their diagnostics. They'll waive the fee if you choose to go through with the repairs.

They were going to charge me $120 to find out what my SES codes were and they have their own proprietary codes. When they checked the codes, their diagnostics came out with about 6-7 codes. I went to Aamco which is free by the way and I only got 2 codes which pointed to the cvt. I ended up getting my cvt replaced and for free since it was under the drivetrain warranty
So Aamco pulled the codes - and dealer replaced the CVT?

Interesting...

It's my understanding is that all warranty work has to be done by Nissan dealers (but I could be wrong).
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:39 AM
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I know that others have had to replace the intake timing control solenoids...

Can anyone comment? Easy? Hard?
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:07 AM
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well at first I went to the dealer to find out what the SES codes were and that's where they said it would cost me $120 just to see what htey were, so I went to Aamco which does it for free and they pulled P1778 and P0716 on mine. But then went back to the dealer and they waived the $120 because I went ahead with the cvt replacement.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:48 PM
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Got car back from dealer. The trip cost $220, covered diags, engine flush and oil change. I've only driven 20 miles since... no codes yet.

Not holding my breath on engine flush fixing it, but would be nice. They recommend flush every 60K miles. I'm hoping it was worth it and not one of "those" services. I had never heard of flushing the engine before (oil, not coolant)

They also mentioned my battery needed to be replaced (3.5 years? not impressive)- they saw a couple low voltage codes....... So did that myself last night (nice hefty Napa Legend 75 battery).
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtatz View Post
Got car back from dealer. The trip cost $220, covered diags, engine flush and oil change. I've only driven 20 miles since... no codes yet.

Not holding my breath on engine flush fixing it, but would be nice. They recommend flush every 60K miles. I'm hoping it was worth it and not one of "those" services. I had never heard of flushing the engine before (oil, not coolant)

They also mentioned my battery needed to be replaced (3.5 years? not impressive)- they saw a couple low voltage codes....... So did that myself last night (nice hefty Napa Legend 75 battery).

have you ALWAYS used mobil 1 or just recently? either way maybe you should stop using it. it seems to have caused you this problem already. i can recommend a better more readily available synthetic like castrol edge titanium available at walmart for $28 for a 5qt jug. its really good, its what i use and worth it for everyday use IMO.

a flush would be good for any car with that mileage so i dont think they were rippin you. plus it was necessary to clear your code issue

my car is one year old now and my OE battery needs be replaced soon cause the voltage is already getting low. im hoping adding distilled water might help for now. your battery lasting 3.5 years was pretty good for oem
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:39 PM
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I figured that a flush wouldn't hurt. They said it was dirty - so good I had it done.
I had no idea that OE batteries were normally junk, I'm not surprised
.
I had used Mobil 1 on the last 2 changes (where I had more code issues). $25/5qts at Meijer. Previously for the other oil changes, always used Valvoline. I thought that Mobil 1 was a step up from Valvoline?

I didn't need dealer to clear codes... Scan Gauge II does it easily enough.

Always interested in the best synthetic...I'm willing to pay more than the regular junk. I'm not familiar with Castrol Edge Titanium..
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:41 PM
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Best Synthetic Oil – Compare Reviews and Rankings | Bestcovery

Mobil 1:

Mobil 1 synthetic oil offers great performance and is readily available in retail stores and online, but typically costs a bit more than Pennzoil Platinum and doesn't offer much to justify the higher cost. Still, it's hard to go wrong with the oil chosen as the factory fill for all Porsche and Mercedes AMG vehicles, the Nissan GT-R, and many other high performance cars
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:45 PM
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mobil 1 is not really that good. atleast not for our cars

heres more info for you on the castrol

Castrol USA - CASTROL EDGE WITH TITANIUM
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