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Should I be concerned?

5K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  tooslow_4_u 
#1 ·
Ok so today I did an oil and filter change. While I was down there I had a look around and spotted a few things.

1. Front exhaust pipe - the stainless braiding covering the bellows is done. The ring that held the front end of it was rusted and was already separated from the braiding and the pipe. Was thinking about getting the flex portion replaced but of course there's no real length of straight pipe either side of it so it looks as though the entire thing would have to be replaced and of course this pipe has the rear converter on it. I checked RockAuto and see that you can get this section as a direct fit. I am in Canada, in the rustbelt of southern Ontario. We have emissions testing here so got to be sure about what goes in. Walker #54782 is one possibility and this one is the Federal/EPA one. The Magnaflow site is a bit clearer and their equivalent is #49504 . Anyone from around here have to replace this yet?

2. Condition of oil pan... it's kinda rusty, wondering if I should replace it? My understanding is that there is no ready to use gasket for this steel pan, have to use RTV gasket maker.

3. Where the engine and CVT mate, there is a bit of a stain. It looks like a slow leak. Can't really do anything about it, should I be worried? Anyone else see this? I have seen something similar on our 97 Civic, but that sort is thing is expected on a much older vehicle.


 
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#2 ·
With the exhaust, you should probably look into getting a Header and replacing that entire section of your exhaust system. Plus you don't need that precat on the header. If that thing goes bad, the internal pieces can get sucked back into the motor and cause you to blow the engine.

Your leak on the bell housing may be from a slow leak from the oil seal by your flywheel.

Oil pan does look pretty rusty, but may just be surface rust. Take it off, Sand it, paint and seal it, then reinstall it. use some type of rust protection undercoating.
 
#4 ·
I'm in the same rust belt...

In Ontario, our emissions are done off the OBDII, so you cannot have O2 sensor issues which means you need to put sensor cheaters IN if you take the Cats OUT. Also, AFAIK, there aren't any 4th gen headers available anyways...so you cannot be tempted. You can do what I did, which is the RL Y-pipe which deletes the 3rd, unmetered cleanup cat. This will pass the OBDII inspection which is all they do now, no visuals AFAIK. You were correct about the flex pipe, usually the whole Ypipe has to be replaced as a unit, and the RL Y-pipe is stainless for a little more $ than the steel ones with cats in 'em. I still have no illusions about the RL flex pipe lasting forever...just don't anyone pop my bubble yet.

Agree with the stain being a slow seep from the main seal on the engine...way expensive to fix unless you have other reasons....like there's oil getting on the clutch and causing it to slip. But you have CVT...so move on.

I have yet to have an oilpan rust through on me, ever, and I've driven some pretty ancient cars through a lot of winters including my 12 year old '03 Altima. I just wouldn't worry about it unless it offends you in some major way.
 
#24 ·
I'm in the same rust belt...
I have yet to have an oilpan rust through on me, ever, and I've driven some pretty ancient cars through a lot of winters including my 12 year old '03 Altima. I just wouldn't worry about it unless it offends you in some major way.
Guess I'm eating crow...just had my oilpan replaced in August. Thought the drain plug seal was leaking, but nope, it was the rusty oilpan. All fixed now.
 
#6 ·
Replace front pipe, as it will start to leak soon an will cause some running issues, plus be noisy.

Oil pan if it is that rusty most of the time they can not be saved like stated above but its just the lower pan, and fairly inexpensive.

Could we get some car details? Daily driver? want to mod etc?
Chris
 
#7 · (Edited)
Yup, northern car, TONS of salt and brine. Ugh.. there's a thin grey coating of it EVERYWHERE on the car.

Forgot to say I have the 2.5. Edit: it's a daily driver, not into the modding thing.

I think even when the e-test was tailpipe gas analysis, you still couldn't have O2 sensor issues. Even if your NOX, unburned HC and CO were all under the limits for your vehicle, having a CEL on usually meant the garage wouldn't test it at all.

I saw the Stillen header, nice stuff but not really my thing, I just keep everything stock.

Based on prices, the Walker 54782 is my best option.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hmmmm... just did a bunch of reading about the pre-cat/engine damage issue. I see where you're coming from now.

Thanks for mentioning about the issue, I was blissfully unaware of it! Good thing you repeated it. "The floggings will continue until morale improves" and all that ;)

Some sources indicate this was problematic with QR25 engines when it was first introduced in 2007 (I think?), but it was fixed "later on". Seems the root cause was rich running condition. Running rich caused the precat to burn up and EGR brought the debris back through the engine. This could occur on any system with EGR. Surely Nissan figured it out by now?

Any known cases for 4th gen?

On the other hand, excessive oil consumption is the symptom and I'm not seeing that.
 
#13 ·
Can any of you parts-savvy guys confirm what there actually is on the 2007-2012 in terms of EGR?

I looked through the Courtesy Parts site and found section 147 for the 2002-2006 Altima:
147 Egr Parts :: Engine Mechanical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: Altima Parts (L31) 2002-2006 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

However for 2007-2012 there is no equivalent section. There is 140 which has both intake, and exhaust manifolds. I looked through many other sections and see no sign of an EGR valve. Similarly I looked through the FSM and find no reference to an EGR valve.

As far as I can tell, there is no EGR valve on the 2007-2012 Altimas, so how is EGR implemented?
 
#17 ·
the issue with the cats breaking apart and being sucked back into the motor wasn't through the EGR system. It got sucked back up through the exhaust valves and back into the motor causing catastrophic failure.
 
#18 ·
In the end for myself and others in the Ontario rustbelt, we need the pre-cat in place in order to go through emissions testing, so we don't have a choice. I did a test in the fall, first time for this car. They do open the hood and look around. Absence of the pre-cat would be obvious. The rear one would be easier to deal with since it is underneath.
 
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