So the a/c in my 2012 altima 2.5s( 76k,nothing replaced) starts to only blow hot.
I take it to my friends house which throws it on his a/c pressure gauge and tells me its
low of freon,also pointing out the clutch engaging on and off. We later replace the Freon and it begins to blow cold. Cold only , sadly for
2 days. I take it almost immediately to a nearby mechanic,which connects his a/c Freon regulating apparatus to my car. He tells me,
"its only slightly high on pressure"(due to us applying extra freon on accident possibly).He regulates the pressure and nothing turns on( still warm air).
He then disconnects the A/c compressor clutch(which i believe is the only connection visible on the compressor) and connects a copper wire from
the positive of the cars battery to the connection om the compressor(while the car was on), and nothing happened. Im told the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced.
I later inform my friend what happined and he tells me it should have turned on if the clutch was working.
Whats your opinion on what the mechanic did and what my friends thoughts were ?
Could i do the whole compressor job myself with the right tools since i get parts at discount?
Should i replace the compressor or clutch or the whole assembly ?
What about the condesor&vacuum filter thing?
other then Freon (which seems to be the only thing removed in youtube videos showing replacement of the compressor)
what needs to be taken out?:crying
no comments ?:wink also it seems there talking about a 3.5l
and i performed the test on the car. no engagement from the clutch just fans and lights etc.
thats what im thinking, but i really want to know what needs to be drained and replaced(in regards to the ac system not comrpessor)
to complete the job if i decided to do it myself
Here's the thing, if its just the clutch that has gone bad, you can replace that without breaking a single refrigerant seal, violating EPA laws, or spending big bucks. Every post above seems to indicate the clutch won't engage whether auto-test or direct connect to battery (or that's the way I read your posts). Read this other post on doing exactly that. The only apparent difference between the 2.5 and 3.5 btw are the number of grooves on the pulley (6 and 7 respectively). The clutch is the same part.
well i found out how to do the whole job basically but i found a friends mechanic thats only charging 200 labor. I get parts at discount at my local advanced auto, or i could get it online for 120-180(referb possibly), so hopefully the job wont be too much in total. Am i getting a good deal at the end of the day ?
edit: i found a ebay deal for 130 compress,dryer, expan valves, o rings
You get what you pay for. My experience has been the labour and reclamation cost about as much as the parts...so why put potential problems in only to have to redo it shortly afterwards.... I would get a new aftermarket compressor (ac compressors aren't rocket science) with a known good reputation. I would replace all my o-rings. I might even replace hoses if I could get them cheap enough...
i was only going to get o rings,and dryer at my local auto store. the compressor is what im really worried about( but i do like the listing price you showed)
Speaking of AC repair, one of my aluminum lines parted and I replaced it yesterday and drew a vacuum leaving it a -30 last night. If it's still at -30 today I may just leave it until the engine is running to recharge but it occurred to me that it might be possible to charge without it running. Since it takes 1.54 - 1.76 lbs of R134a, I wonder if sucking two 12 oz. cans dry (-30 on a gauge) and pumping that into the low pressure side without starting the engine will be a good idea. After all I know I'll be putting R134a into an evacuated system and the lower limit is 2.05 twelve ounce cans. Then later when the engine is running I can top it off if need be and it will likely be low because I'll be purging the work station compressor and lines.
Having just run outside and checked, it dropped from -30 to -28 overnight. So, I'll be removing the replaced aluminum tube at the drier connection and re-seating after cleaning well.
So, just wondering if there's any problem with static charging the AC system.
Yes, the green O-rings sold at autoparts stores and those I coated with Dow Molykote. The reason I suspect the drier connection is there was a mis-thread and my first attempt at evacuation failed until I corrected it. The replacement I took off a car at the junkyard turned out not to be perfect as whoever removed the battery years ago did so somewhat roughly. The additional bends weren't noticed until I put it alongside the broken. The drier connection particularly ended up badly askew. When I re-threaded the hold-down bolt at the drier connection it drew down to -30 quickly. Hours later it was still there but this morning it has dropped just a bit. When I take that connection off this time I'll clean the guide pin hole as well. Maybe I should just jb weld it as a seal in addition - no, to remove it would then require heat breakdown and cooking any kind of flurocarbon ain't a great idea - massive chromosomal dislocation.
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