HELP: does 2012 Altima REQUIRE synthetic oil? Or conventional ok - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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#1 Old 06-15-2013, 05:55 PM
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HELP: does 2012 Altima REQUIRE synthetic oil? Or conventional ok

*meant to say 2013 in the title, not 2012... Won't let me change now

I'm having some issues with the service center, and I need to know two things:

1) does 2013 altima REQUIRE synethic engine oil, or is conventional ok?

2) if my car had synthetic before, is it safe to switch to conventional?

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Purchased: Summer 2012

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#2 Old 06-15-2013, 06:52 PM
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Have you taken a look at the Owners Manual 9-2 Technical and consumer information, which has the oil requirements for your car?

"if my car had synthetic before, is it safe to switch to conventional?". Yes it is OK.
Ask Mobil 1 Archive - Switching to Conventional from Synthetic

A search of this forum using the words "2013 Altima oil change" returned these results, among others.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...-contract.html

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...ine-break.html

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...il-change.html

Enjoy the reading.
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#3 Old 06-15-2013, 07:09 PM
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the questions i see on here sometimes..


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#4 Old 06-15-2013, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throckmorton View Post
Have you taken a look at the Owners Manual 9-2 Technical and consumer information, which has the oil requirements for your car?

"if my car had synthetic before, is it safe to switch to conventional?". Yes it is OK.
Ask Mobil 1 Archive - Switching to Conventional from Synthetic

A search of this forum using the words "2013 Altima oil change" returned these results, among others.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...-contract.html

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...ine-break.html

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...il-change.html

Enjoy the reading.
The mobile1 link was indeed helpful, and answered my question #2.

However, the other links did not help answer question #1. I don't know enough about the subject to know the difference between 0w20 and 5w30 oil. When the auto shop tells me my car REQUIRES synthetic oil, and that conventional oil will damage my engine, I need to know if that is true or if they're trying to make extra money off of me.

I'm sorry for my ignorance, and appreciate any HELPFUL (cough tl2k2max) replies.

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2.5 SV Metallic Slate
Purchased: Summer 2012
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#5 Old 06-15-2013, 08:51 PM
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the owners and service manual both state that the '13 2.5 motor use 0W-20 grade motor oil which only comes in a synthetic blend. you can use 5W-30 which comes in both conventional and synthetic. but the manual states that if you use 5W-30, you will not see the estimate mpg's as stated on the window sticker of the car as if it was used with 0W-20

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#6 Old 06-15-2013, 09:47 PM
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Find a motor oil you like and stick to it.

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#7 Old 06-15-2013, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the.wong.kid View Post
the owners and service manual both state that the '13 2.5 motor use 0W-20 grade motor oil which only comes in a synthetic blend. you can use 5W-30 which comes in both conventional and synthetic. but the manual states that if you use 5W-30, you will not see the estimate mpg's as stated on the window sticker of the car as if it was used with 0W-20
Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State and Valvoline have only synthetic 0W-20 oil.

Mazda, Subaru, Honda, and Toyota market their branded synthetic 0W20 oil.

Honda also has a synthetic blend 0W-20 sold under their name.

Castrol makes a synthetic blend 0W-20, along with a full synthetic.

I do not know what 0W-20 oil Nissan sells under their name.
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#8 Old 06-15-2013, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaultwit View Post
The mobile1 link was indeed helpful, and answered my question #2.

However, the other links did not help answer question #1. I don't know enough about the subject to know the difference between 0w20 and 5w30 oil. When the auto shop tells me my car REQUIRES synthetic oil, and that conventional oil will damage my engine, I need to know if that is true or if they're trying to make extra money off of me.
I am sorry that you did not find the links I provided helpful to you, but quite honestly, I feel that you never took the time to read them. If you had read them, you would have found that your question #1 was answered more than once.

Something else I do not understand is why you would take the word of total, anonymous strangers posting in a forum, over what the people who designed, manufactured, and tested your vehicle, who by the way even went to the expense and trouble to tell you what oil to use by publishing that information in the seldom read, but easy to comprehend Owners Manual.

"I don't know enough about the subject to know the difference between 0w20 and 5w30 oil."

Guess what? You don't need to know anything at all about motor oil, all you have to do is read and follow the direction that are posted where? The Owners Manual.

Good luck with your car.
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#9 Old 06-15-2013, 11:01 PM
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^^ well put.


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#10 Old 06-16-2013, 01:38 AM
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i went from 0w-20 to 5w-30 didnt see a different yet---i live in honolulu hawaii so mostly warm weather too.

Altima 2013 2.5 SL
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#11 Old 06-16-2013, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throckmorton View Post
Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State and Valvoline have only synthetic 0W-20 oil.

Mazda, Subaru, Honda, and Toyota market their branded synthetic 0W20 oil.

Honda also has a synthetic blend 0W-20 sold under their name.

Castrol makes a synthetic blend 0W-20, along with a full synthetic.

I do not know what 0W-20 oil Nissan sells under their name.
ask your local dealer wat brand they use, most dealers use mobil one as their oil supplier, i know every dealership ive worked for have used it. whether it was a toyota, lexus, and nissan dealer


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#12 Old 06-16-2013, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaultwit View Post
*meant to say 2013 in the title, not 2012... Won't let me change now

I'm having some issues with the service center, and I need to know two things:

1) does 2013 altima REQUIRE synethic engine oil, or is conventional ok?

2) if my car had synthetic before, is it safe to switch to conventional?
First off I'd like to say that most "synthetic" oils in America are actually not true synthetics anyway, but rather group III highly refined Dino/crude oil. So really you're just getting a higher grade oil when you buy "Synthetic", and they are just better blends and additives. In this country "synthetic" just indicates that the oil meets certain standards, not so much how it was made or where it came from.

Now to answer, no you don't need synthetic in your 2013 Altima QR25DE 2.5, but you SHOULD use 0W-20, API Service SN, as stated in the Manual. It also says 5W-30 may be used and will be considered acceptable for warranty pourposes, though it is not the recommended product. I believe 0W-20 grade oil is only available in group III and above blends which have been determined legal to call synthetic here in America.

For your second question, it is ok to switch from synthetic to regular oil or even to mix them, but mixing will negate much of the advantages of the higher end oil. Secondly, most likely the Synthetic you had before was not really synthetic, so you're not really switching types of oil anyway!

A few exceptions to most "synthetic" oils being just Group III Dino Oil include High end synthetic oils from Redline, Royal Purple, AMSOIL, European Castrol Synthetic, Extended Performance Mobil 1 (only the Extended Performance), Ester Oil, most of these are true synthetics. There exceptions with these brands too, such as AMSOIL XL that is 85-90% Group III Dino Oil.

Better oils do offer better protection, but even a quality standard conventional oil, in a well maintained engine, can help that engine last a very long time. My family has had cars go 250,000 + miles on conventional oil, with no engine work done other then maintenance. They were still running strong when sold. I personally prefer to use a true synthetic, but it's not a requirement by any means.

Lastly I'll add that I believe the only reason Nissan recommended the 0W-20 on the 2.5 QR25DE is to help achieve better MPG, a big goal they had in the design and specifications of this car. Running a much thicker oil can damage an engine, but the difference between 0W-20 and 5W-30 is not enough to cause any sort of damage, and this is backed up by Nissan's statement that 5W-30 may be used in this engine and will maintain the warranty. Also note that those of us with the VQ35DE 3.5, 5W-30 is the recommended oil.



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#13 Old 06-16-2013, 05:45 AM
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if you compare a bottle of synthetic mobil oil and a bottle of synthetic motul oil. you notice the mobil bottle says "fully synthetic" and the motul bottles says" 100% synthetic. there lies the scheme. what is determined as "fully synthetic"? 85% synthetic? 90%? that why im a motul fanboy

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#14 Old 06-16-2013, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throckmorton View Post
I am sorry that you did not find the links I provided helpful to you, but quite honestly, I feel that you never took the time to read them. If you had read them, you would have found that your question #1 was answered more than once.

Something else I do not understand is why you would take the word of total, anonymous strangers posting in a forum, over what the people who designed, manufactured, and tested your vehicle, who by the way even went to the expense and trouble to tell you what oil to use by publishing that information in the seldom read, but easy to comprehend Owners Manual.

"I don't know enough about the subject to know the difference between 0w20 and 5w30 oil."

Guess what? You don't need to know anything at all about motor oil, all you have to do is read and follow the direction that are posted where? The Owners Manual.

Good luck with your car.
You don't have to believe that I read them if you don't want to, but I did. They do a great job explaining the benefits of using synthetic oil, but do not answer whether it is REQUIRED. In other words, whether or not the engine would get damaged if you use conventional oil. And guess what? Neither does the manual. I read that too, even if you don't want to believe me. No, it does not say "if you don't use synthetic oil, it will damage your engine" verbatim, but I didn't want to assume that, and figured I'd get opinions from others who probably know more about the subject than I do.

And when did I say I wouldn't take the word of "people who designed, manufactured, and tested your vehicle"? I read the manual. It didn't answer my question. I called multiple dealerships, their technicians could not answer my question. I didn't say I would take the word of anonymous strangers from a forum either. I didn't say I wouldn't either, I know, but just for the record I just want to get others' opinions.

But nonetheless, Throckmorton, I know in the end you were trying to help, so I'm appreciative of that. I know you wouldn't have spent the time to search for different threads to try to answer my questions with otherwise.


Quote:
Originally Posted by westly197 View Post
First off I'd like to say that most "synthetic" oils in the America are actually not true synthetics anyway, but rather group III highly refined Dino/crude oil. So really you're just getting a higher grade oil when you buy "Synthetic", and they are just better blends and additives. In this country "synthetic" just indicates that the oil meets certain standards, not so much how it was made or where it came from.

Now to answer, no you don't need synthetic in your 2013 Altima QR25DE 2.5, but you SHOULD use 0W-20, API Service SN, as stated in the Manual. It also says 5W-30 may be used and will be considered acceptable for warranty pourposes, though it is not the recommended product. I believe 0W-20 grade oil is only available in group III and above blends which have been determined legal to call synthetic here in America.

For your second question, it is ok to switch from synthetic to regular oil or even to mix them, but mixing will negate much of the advantages of the higher end oil. Secondly, most likely the Synthetic you had before was not really synthetic, so you're not really switching types of oil anyway!

A few exceptions to most "synthetic" oils being just Group III Dino Oil include High end synthetic oils from Redline, Royal Purple, AMSOIL, European Castrol Synthetic, Extended Performance Mobil 1 (only the Extended Performance), Ester Oil, most of these are true synthetics. There exceptions with these brands too, such as AMSOIL XL that is 85-90% Group III Dino Oil.

Better oils do offer better protection, but even a quality standard conventional oil, in a well maintained engine, can last a very long time. My family has had cars go 250,000 + miles on conventional oil, with no engine work done other then maintenance. They were still running strong when sold. I personally prefer to use a true synthetic, but it's not a requirement by any means.

Lastly I'll add that I believe the only reason Nissan recommend the 0W-20 is to help achieve better MPG, a big goal they had in the design and specifications of this car. Running a much thicker oil can damage an engine, but the difference between 0W-20 and 5W-30 is not enough to cause any sort of damage, and this is backed up by Nissan's statement that 5W-30 may be used in this engine and will maintain the warranty.
Thank you, westly197. Your response more than adequately answered my questions. I just wish I was able to read your response earlier, but I learned from what you said nonetheless. Thanks.

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#15 Old 06-16-2013, 08:08 PM
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I've switched between synthetic and conventional and back again, on several different cars, trucks, and motorcycles/quads, and even my lawnmower. I've never noticed any difference in "feel", power gains, fuel mileage improvements, etc.

That being said, I prefer synthetic simply for the increased oil change interval. It costs a bit more, but the small added costs more than outweighs the convenience of less maintenance. That's my 2 cents.

One minor disadvantage of synthetic in a racing application when used on a motorcycle with a "wet" clutch (that means the clutch is exposed to the engine oil). The synthetic oil is so slippery it can reduce clutch "bite" and the clutch slips a bit. Of course this is an extreme condition, and would only be noticeable when pushing the engine at 100%. A switch to a synthetic blend cured the slipping problem.
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