so even if your pads are glazed... you can lock the tires with the same amount of force as if they weren't?
OK, now you're beginning to think about it. Excellent!!!
OK, pads glaze, the coefficint of the material goes down, so therefor in order to get the same braking force, you must now stomp the shit out of the brake pedal.
But,
The rear tires are probably going to lock up first. If you have ABS that will get going and suddnely, you've just added 30 feet to your 60-0 braking distance.
Remember that article I posted a link to earlier where it said the only way to stop your car shorter is to get better tires? It is true...as long as your brake system is in good working condition (as in no glazed/worn out pads, no sticking calipers, no warped rotors, etc). Obviously if things are not working correctly, stopping distances will suffer.
2) It will require the same amount of force every single time no matter what the composition of the rotor or pads to lock the tires. The only difference is how hard you press on the pedal.
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What are you talking about??????
I'm talking about the torque generated by the pads being pushed against the rotor. If you change brake pads to something with a higher coefficient of friction, you the driver can now exert less effort on the brake pedal to achieve the same torque. But, provided you have the same tires on your car, the amount of torque required between the pad and the rotors to lock the tire will be exactly the same as before. The only thing that changed is how hard you needed to press the on brake pedal.
never mind. no offense but your first reply was crappy.
and i find it funny that you think that everyone here blindly accepts what they're told. and that you're somehow "opening our eyes". i always do my research before i buy something. car part or not.
thanks for the tech info. no thanks for the insults and the patronizing crap.
what about expansion and contraction of metal
does that have any effect on braking
does drilled allow better lattice formation, kind of like what they do to highways and sidewalks?
what about expansion and contraction of metal
does that have any effect on braking
Not so much with disc brakes. Drum brakes yes. As teh drum heats up, it expands so now the shoes have to move further to contact it. Not a major problem with rear drums since they don't do much anyway.
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does drilled allow better lattice formation, kind of like what they do to highways and sidewalks?
what about air flow through the drilled holes, does that help dissipate heat that is internal to the metal. We know that metal does not distribute heat equally throughout like water does.
No, as I explained previously, i hAvE mAd tiZZiTe fiZZikZ sKiLLz, y0!
But I'm always happy to learn more. Suppose I have a car with stock brakes, and I am able to lock up the wheels under braking. Now I upgrade the brakes in some way (bigger rotors, better pads, whatever). Please explain to me how my stopping distances will decrease
and i find it funny that you think that everyone here blindly accepts what they're told. and that you're somehow "opening our eyes".
Alot of eyes have been opened. This therad is now all over the internet. Everywhere. On nearly every single board I've been to that has a link to this thread, someone's said "Wow, did I just learn a ton about brakes!"
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thanks for the tech info. no thanks for the insults and the patronizing crap.
You're welcome, and what crap?
Good discussion tonight, well at leat the tech part was. I'm off to bed so I can get up at the butt-crack of dawn to go to the track.
Originally posted by osama what about air flow through the drilled holes, does that help dissipate heat that is internal to the metal. We know that metal does not distribute heat equally throughout like water does.
Good question. Air flowing through the holes drilled in a rotor will, to some extent, cool the area immediately around the hole faster than the rest of the rotor. This means the metal around the edge of the drilled hole will contract at a rate greater than the rest of the metal in the rotor. This means that the stresses on this section of the rotor will be greater than the stresses in other areas of the rotor. These stresses are what causes the cracking that you have seen in drilled rotors that have been subjected to extreme/racing conditions. Similar cracking occurs on the surface of a non drilled rotor, but that cracking remains at the surface. I'll try to get a pic of one of my rotors in the next day or two to illustrate that. The problem with drilled rotors is that the crack can form and expand through the rotor, and the cracking will be concentrated in the areas where the rotor is its weakest: on the edges of the holes. That's why the rotors are not advisable for track use.
Alot of eyes have been opened. This therad is now all over the internet. Everywhere. On nearly every single board I've been to that has a link to this thread, someone's said "Wow, did I just learn a ton about brakes!"
You're welcome, and what crap?
Good discussion tonight, well at leat the tech part was. I'm off to bed so I can get up at the butt-crack of dawn to go to the track.
wasn't necessarily directed at you.
well except for this thing...
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OK, now you're beginning to think about it. Excellent!!!
i'm sure you had no malicious intent with this but really I do have a brain and I've used it before as hard as it may be to believe.
oh and the "opening eyes" comment, i'm sure a lot of people learned something about brakes through this but I was referring to stuff like this:
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I'm not here to tell you which is correct -- that's your job, because it's your money at stake. You must be critical of both sides. Which makes more sense? Which has stronger support? This applies every time you make a decision about which performance modification to buy. The next time your buddy says the $300 part he bought increased horsepower, ask him why, or how. Decide for yourself if what he says is true -- a turbocharger probably made more power, but would a new muffler make a difference? More importantly, is it worth your money?
which is good advice i guess. except i don't have as low of an opinion of the people here as some of you seem to have. excuse me if I don't thank you for educating us on how to make informed decisions.
Originally posted by MaddMatt Your tires are stopping your car. Not the pads. Not the rotors. Not the SS brakelines. The tires. TIRES!!! Want to stop quicker, get better TIRES and stop wasting money on expensive-as-hell rotors.
Just trying to educate you guys.
then a few posts later on the SAME page...
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Originally posted by MaddMatt Seriously, it's called threshhold braking, and I know how to do it like I invented it.
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it may be P-fuzzy if ya nasty, but its pfuzzy00 if ya on AIM
Seeing as how all of the points have been made, and the technical aspect of this thread has been exhausted fully, multiple points proven and people flamed - I am, with great pleasure, proud to CLOSE this thread.
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