I have a 2002 spec v. it recently fooded while trying to start the car. I have replaced the plugs and dryed the cylinders. and when I try to start it, it floods again almost immediatly. I have unplugged the injector harness and cranked the engine,then the engine starts for several seconds until the excess gas is burned from the cylinders. I then plug the injectors back in and try to start it. I fires right up for about 1 second and goes right back to a flooded state after dying. I have repeated this cycle several times but keep getting the same result. If anyone can help me that would be REALLY cool. thanks.
First, Thanks for the service manual link, 2nd I will try the procedure mentioned hopefully one night this week ( the weather is crappy today). I might have messed up the throttle calibration as I tried cranking with the pedal down and every other combination I could come up with. Hope its not the fuel pump since it was running fine when I shut the car off before the initial flood. Again, thanks for taking the time to give me some insight on this matter. I will repost the results after I get a chance to work the throttle cal.
time to dig, first you might want to save ur FSM PDF onto computer for easier navigation in the manual... most of the PDF links will not work from website. then you're going to have read through it, it has everything you need, hardest part will be finding it. never directly dealt with my fuel lines, etc... so can only offer advice in which direction i'd personally take.
part i really don't like is the no DTC codes (service engine light/ MIL) might mean something is wrong with ECU if it's not detecting any errors...
just ordered a ODB scanner from amazon, hopefully will get it this week. I need to dig into the instrument panel first as there is no SES light even when the key is first tuned on (maybe a bad or removed bulb). I actually did get the car to run a few times, barely. It idles from about 100 to 500 rpms very roughly while dumping lots of gas out the tailpipe (very rich), it will last for a little less than a minute then becomes to flooded to run. Its almost like the injectors are running wide open, I will try to ohm out the injector harness for any shorts to ground that might cause them to just stay open. If I can source an inline fuel pressure guage I will check for overpressure. I have little time to work on this during the week so this all may be a weekend job again. In the meantime I will keep digging through the service manual as well.
any luck finding code? if the ODB II reader gives you any problems, there is a way to manually check the code, but you will need the MIL working. ((and if I remember my instrument panel correctly, there are black and brown end colored bulbs, not sure how many of each, but pretty sure there are enough if you need to move one of those bulbs to get the MIL to show. if the MIL bulb is missing))* I can look in mine and see which color it normally is.
* obviously I didn't remember... the MIL doesn't have a replaceable bulb...
Last edited by boyrs; 03-02-2011 at 11:10 PM.
Hey, I havent disapeared, just been busy with work and self inflicted injuries. But I did get the code reader finally, First code up is the P0605 (RAM failure) followed by a handfull of other sensor power failures. After following the instructions for the RAM failure code It keeps coming back up as first code on the list, the fix is replace ECM. I've seen them on ebay for $175, But it looks like the nissan dealer will still have to reset the NVIS with a consult2. Do you know if there is any way to bypass the NVIS, or does anyone make a PNP stand alone engine management that replace the stock ecu all togather?
damn that bites, first you need to make sure it isn't under warranty (Nissan won't tell you unless you ask directly) when my ECU went, I was at 79K and warranty was until 80K, but I had recall on ECU for my 2002.
before I knew about warranty, I priced the ECU and was told by Nissan that they would not touch an ECU I got used or third party. they told me it'd be $100 for hookup to consult, $100 to reprogram ECU, and something like $300-400 for ECU.
have heard of guys replacing ECU w/ 3.5 engine swap, but don't know about the orig. ECU. this guy might be able to point you in a direction, you can try to PM him, but don't think he's been on for a while.
I just went ahead and ordered the ebay ecu for $175 today after talking to my local nissan dealer. He said they would reprogram a used ecu for a a $95 hookup fee after I install it. I didnt ask about a warrenty, Im at 1300,000mi right now so prob not and I didnt find any recall info for it. Ill prob take it on the chin this time, just be glad to get it fixed. may be next week before I can get it to the dealer but Ill post up the results.
alright, I got my ecu in and hauled it to the dealer the have the key reset. It runs fine again but there is some new problems, first code is p1001-CAN link comm crkt. second is p1564-speed cntrl device switch. the result of these are that the cruise control doesnt work it just flashes when try to engage. the real problem i think is the CAN link because also the A\C doesnt work,the coolent temp guage doesnt work (but does show up on the scan tool in real time), the radiator fans dont come on when they are supposed to. the manual doesnt give much on the first code, it refers to a link at the end for more troubleshooting but the link doesnt work. anyway thats where i am at know. I hope i didnt get another bad ECU. Any input?
you can also save a copy of each section onto your computer and if all the sections are in the same folder then the links between sections will work (on web, only the links within a section will work)
I only have 30 min. till I gotta go into work so didn't really have time to dig into it deeper right now, but sounds like that ECM(ECU) might be bad, that or your TCM is going bad as well. but it gives you a manual way to test them in the FSM,
main thing I don't like is that the p1564 code states the ECM could be bad as well. but don't jump to conclusions until you get a chance to test it out. there's a procedure to reset your switch in there as well.
seems like these codes would have shown right away when they did the reprogram and the idle relearn and all that. if not, maybe on the way home something got bumped and the wiring to the ECM is loose. check all the connections to make sure they are snug. also, there are some sharp edges on the firewall and even next to the TCM inside the cabin. if you pulled on the wires while replacing the ECM then one of them might have been shaved or cut into causing a short between ECM and TCM which would explain both of those codes.
Alright, I couldnt find anyting like shaved wires or bad connections. I did get the FSM downloaded correctly and looked at the wire diagram that shows the CAN lines going to the TSM, I searched for the TCM under the passenger side kick panel as to check continuity of the CAN lines between the ECM and TCM, the problem is I cant find the TCM, the car is a 6spd. manual trans. Would the car not have a TCM? makes sense to me. If this is the case I think I might have a ECU from a non-specv W/automatic trans. that would explain why so many things arent working right. aside from the A/C, the cruise, the coolent guage, and coolant fans, I dont think the vvt is working either, it is way low on power even though it runs smooth. I may try another used ECM from another place and if it works I will send the other one back while its still under warranty. Also when the dealer reprogramed the security. they said they didnt have to hook up to the ecu and just charged me for reprogramming the key, does this seem right?
sorry for late reply, been down and out for a while...
sounds like you're right about the TCM, only glanced at it before and didn't see that the TCM is in the automatic transaxle section of the FSM... but ECU should still be programmable for your spec v...
as far as the program on ECU, don't know any specifics, but I was told by nissan here that the ECU had to programmed with the consult II when it was put in my car, the guy told me that they do a live download straight from the nissan head quarters (wherever the hell that is...). but then like I said earlier, the cost was a lot more... this guy might have skipped some steps to save you money, or just totally screwed you and pocketed the $$ if you don't have the NATS system (anti-theft disabling crap) I've had a spare key made at my buddy's hardware store and drove with it, so I know there's no chip on my SE-R key...
holy crap what a headache this has been, but I finally have a conclusion to this mess. Here we go, after I called around and talking to a claimed nissan ecu specialist i was told that the model number of the replacement ecu had to be an exact match to the original not just a match to the year and make, that explains why my replacement didnt work right. on that note I coudnt find an exact match for my ecu so igot refunded on the replacement I bought and found a couple of websites that rebuild ecu with lifetime warranty. ecm depot.com is the way to go it was $400 but they had a perfect rating with the BBB and claim to repair about 5 of these units a weeek, other repair facitities I found were in bad standing with BBB. I did the repair with these guys a ecmdepot.com they told me these ecu's were notorious for taking a dump. they replaced all the bad parts known for going bad and any other IC that seemed flaky. I got ecu back in a week (really fast) plugged it in but the car would just crank over and not start. I guess that key reprogram the dealer did was legit. after taking the car back to the dealer to have the key reprogrammed back to the original repaired ecu the car started right up and has been running like a champ for 4 days now. I hope this ordeal may help someone else in the future who reads this, and thanks for the help and manuals.
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