Have a few questions pertaining to an ECU swap. I am concerned about the stock Security system interfering with starting my vehicle after I swap the ECU. I have a 01 sentra 2.0 liter auto trans. Purchased a used ECU from same option car that had been crashed. Am I going to have a issue starting the vehicle due to the coded key? I have read that the key code is stored in the steering column and not the ECU itself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I didnt think about the key issue until after I purchased the ECU. Also if the purchased ECU vehicle did not have the NVIS system, Would that be helpful or hurtful in my attempt to start my vehicle?
"When replacing ECM, initialization of NVIS (NATS) system
and registration of all NVIS (NATS) ignition key IDs must be
carried out with CONSULT-II using NATS program card."
OK, Swapped ECU at dealership parking lot to save a few dollars. They programmed key code to ecu. Called me and said was still running bad. Altho they didnt know what it ran like before. I had them troubleshoot some harness wiring and they cleaned the MAF sensor and fixed a dead wire to a sensor.(Cant remember which one). Said it ran better but didnt drive it but around the lot. Picked it up and determined it wasnt any better altho the idle was extremely high(1500rpms and seemed to be changing constantly as I talked to the mechanic). Drove about 10 miles and the car seemed to be running better so I kicked it down and it took off. Did this several times and it seemed to be running good with power anyhow. Got it home and the idle was surging from 1500 to 1900 rpms. drove it to work and was the same until I disconnected the MAF sensor and started it to try to get the idle stabilized. It did well at idle with MAF disconnected until I plugged it back in. Now it seems to be back at square 1. Have to baby throttle to accelerate and any incline or too much throttle and it just dives on its face. And still has the surging idle which it never had before I took it to the dealership. I am going to try to test the Sensor by backpinnig while running to check voltage and maybe try to clean it again before I buy a high dollar MAF sensor. Does it seem like the MAF may be shot? That was the dealerships suggestion and possibly a wire harness issue.
could be the MAF, but would be best to try the idle air relearn first to make sure that isn't the problem. if the dealership only drove it around the parking lot then it probably didn't warm up enough to do the relearn correctly, think the FSM says to drive for at least 20 mins in stop and go traffic before doing the relearn.
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