Running a 1k watt amp to a Sundown Audio SA-10 D2 and having some dimming problems when i crank it up. The positive cable has a built in fuse? Can you do the "big 3" on the newer Altima's? What other ways could i get rid of the dimming?
I'm running:
Precision Power Phantom P1000.1 amp
Kenwood excelon 696 HU
Sundown Audio SA-10 D2 wired at 1 ohm
Kicker 4 gauge wiring kit
How about a larger alternator rated to handle to electrical load you are placing on your car's electrical system? I ask as a question, but I know its the best answer. Everything else will be a band aide. I have a 270amp hi out put alt, but most will shy away from it because of caost without ever realizing that the price isnt the issue, the solution is the issue. Doing the BIG 3 is a given on any vehicle regardless if a system is in the future or not, because it will also help improve the functions of the ECU and all electrical sensors....No joke.
Is it safe to run a bigger alternator? I will check around and see who makes one for my car. On the big 3, does there need to be a fuse between the battery and the alternator on the positive? Thanks for the advice
Is it safe? Wll I can certainly tell you it is safer than the way you are running everything off your stock alternator. Yes it is definently safe. Yes there needs to be a fuse. The fuse should be the max amperage rating that the wire is capable of handling. This figure is based upon the size of the wire as well as the type of wire. Pure Copper wire will handle/pass more amperage than the cheaper CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) wire considering the 2 wires being compared are the same size and length. Copper is more expensive, but its all I use. Some on here use the cheaper stuff and are ok with it. Comes down to your budget and desire. I bought mine from a company called DCPowerinc.com I will warn you, they dont have the best customer service in terms of response, but they definently have the best alternators available. Stock alternator iirc puts out 120 amps max, and about 80 amps at idle. My alternator puts out 190-200 amps at idle and 270 amps at max. The voltage stays at a rock steady 14.7 volts and never fluctuates...turn the headlights on, ac, stereo, whatever, and the voltage stays the same. Why? I have more amperage than my electrical system needs, and therefore it doesnt have to strain to try to meet the demand. The main reason I went with them is because I done like stuff that stands out to much from factory. My alt is a direct bolt on. No fabrication needed whatsoever other than upgrading the charge wire (grounds of course also but I had already done this with the Big 3) Most other companies will sell you a "universal" alt with a "bracket". Here is a pic of mine
Thank you! You have been a big help, this is the biggest system i have used power wise, i didn't even think about what would happen when i turn the a/c on with the dimming issues i'm having now.
thought it would be cheaper and easier to switch out your starter battery for a deep cycle battery like a Kinetik or Shuriken. HO alternatrs would only be needed if you were running 2k rms watts or more.
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2009 2.5s with Takeda sri, Stillen front strut brace, 6k HIDs, black matrix depo tails, glossy black roof vinyl, LED drls.
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future mods: lowering springs, Racingline or Stillen rear sway bar, 4 channel amp, catback exhaust, 2JR pulley swap
Sometimes its difficult to add water to a glass thats already overflowing...lol
Concentrate on the part about the alternator AND the battery segments in the article below.
Not sure how you come to this general conclusion. The stock alt is about 120amps or so, enough to power the car's electrical needs, not designed for additional draw, especially from the size amp the OP has which has a FUSE rating of 40x3, or 120amps at max draw. A hi output alt is infact the BEST way to correctly power the car's electrical need as well as additional add on non factory electical demands. While a battery of this design is good, it isnt the best solution to the issue. Bettery than a capacitor for sure, but still not nearly as functional as a hi output alt. To each their own...I know money always has to play a role in these types of decisions, just that in my mind, if your going to do something, do it right or save up to do it right at a later date and time, OR dont do it at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gameguru1360
thought it would be cheaper and easier to switch out your starter battery for a deep cycle battery like a Kinetik or Shuriken. HO alternatrs would only be needed if you were running 2k rms watts or more.
just wondering why OP would need a HO alt. I'm running slightly more rms power than him and I don't have dimming problems. I don't even have a deep cycle battery as my starter battery.
Maybe he pushes his system to the limit all the time/most of the time, which will draw more power. What amp(s) do you have bro? I assume its a class D? I wanna look at the stats. Do you also have a 4 channel amp? Not sure what the OP has going on, could also be an issue with his stock alt right from the factory. Ive seen it happen before. My lights dimmed a little before my new alt, now I can arc weld with all the extra power I have...I don't even have subs. My amp is the ZED Leviathan and its a monster!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gameguru1360
just wondering why OP would need a HO alt. I'm running slightly more rms power than him and I don't have dimming problems. I don't even have a deep cycle battery as my starter battery.
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