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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:48 AM
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F1Altima F1Altima is offline
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R.I.P. Ka24de

So i'm on cruise control 70mph, when suddenly i hear some metallic pounding, i turn the radio down and realize the car has turned off, i glance over at the temperature gauge and it's fully deflected, so i put her in neutral and coast to a stop, i finally stop, right beside the damn racetrack. So i get out, open the hood and the engine bay had caught on fire, i rushed to get the fire extinguisher from the trunk and realized my nitrous bottle was leaking, i then yelled out nos! lol just kidding but yeah i opened the hood and the engine bay was hellish hot, and smoke was coming out, i had the car over heat before and always by the time i open the hood a bunch of steam comes out but not this time, it was thick toxic smoke, the engine was totally cooked, beyond belief, i then saw oil under the car, checked the oil level and there was no oil. Basically the car won't even turn over, the bearings are all probably stuck. So now i'm debating what to do. Should i fix this engine up or get a new one. I'm thinking of getting another one, buying some forged pistons, and try a 150 shot. I'll keep you guys posted.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2008, 03:56 AM
zadeluca zadeluca is online now
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tough break man that sucks. if i were you id just drop in another KA for a few hundred bucks and call it a day.
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Old 05-03-2008, 03:38 PM
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Do what I've been dreaming of doing. Slap in some Forged high compression pistons and get some new rods and bearings.

Why did it over heat? Anything to do with the nitrous?
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:35 PM
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F1Altima F1Altima is offline
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I haven't found exactly what happened, it's been sitting in the garage since yesterday, i don't want to look at it right now, i've been busy and won't get to touch it until thursday. But definately getting a new engine, and sticking to nitrous, just going to get forged pistons, the ka24 comes with forged crank and rods, so i just need som pistons, besides i wont be pushing more than 250 at the wheels so i don't think i need to upgrade the rods, just the pistons.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2008, 10:29 PM
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jayjaya29 jayjaya29 is offline
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Good to hear you are gonna stick with the Altima.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2008, 12:22 AM
booyah_tribe booyah_tribe is offline
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Replace the KA with a VQ30DE-K
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2008, 02:42 AM
99AltimaSE-Limited 99AltimaSE-Limited is offline
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Clear that bitch out and swap in a RB25DET!!!
Hahahaha, that would be so awesome! (if possible)

But on a serious note, you can get a decent KA for relatively cheap.
Best of luck. That sucks that she blew.
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:16 PM
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So i found a 2001 engine i think i'll get that, by the way i have a 96 altima, all i have to swap is the distributor, and intake manifold to make it work huh? By the way i checked the compression on my other engine and it had 15-30 psi, poor thing.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:25 AM
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can't wait to see what you car will do. This thing should be awesome.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:27 AM
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Asleep Asleep is offline
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that sucks. step up though bro, turbo is so much more fulfilling.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:59 AM
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samnissan2003 samnissan2003 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1Altima View Post
So i found a 2001 engine i think i'll get that, by the way i have a 96 altima, all i have to swap is the distributor, and intake manifold to make it work huh? By the way i checked the compression on my other engine and it had 15-30 psi, poor thing.

Damn bro, sorry about your engine...good luck with the swap, it should be pretty easy, we did it..hmm about 2 days ...just keep track of every bolt lol... we had like 2 left over.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:00 AM
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JAP99 JAP99 is offline
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Talking

sr20 swap
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:16 AM
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F1Altima F1Altima is offline
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Definately going turbo but first i want to build up my spare engine. I got the 2001 engine for $450 it looks good no leaks or anything, I'm going to be putting that engine in and start building the block of my other engine that i now have. I'm planning to build it and later on swap it back in, run a 100 direct port shot, and 75 wet shot just in case, all the while i save up my money and gather money up for a custom turbo kit.
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DMH Electric Exhaust Cut out
H.S. Header
Custom WAI
U.R. Pulley
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A.C.T Clutch S/S
Custom Short Shifter
ST Rear Sway bar
A-Arm Brace
ES Control Arm Bushings
18" Centerline RPM (15lbs!)
225/40/18Yokohoma Parada Spec2
Eibach springs/kyb struts
Rear disk conversion (Brembo Slotted/Drilled)
http://www.putfile.com/f1altima

Last edited by F1Altima : 05-12-2008 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:12 AM
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Tap56 Tap56 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99AltimaSE-Limited View Post
Clear that bitch out and swap in a RB25DET!!!
Hahahaha, that would be so awesome! (if possible)
Awesome yes...
RB's make everything better.
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:20 PM
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F1Altima F1Altima is offline
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I finished installing the engine on Friday. Of course it ran horrible at first two spark plugs weren't firing, but i got it fixed. So i go for a test drive, oh and by the way this engine made a horrible timing chain rubbing sound, from 2500rpms-3300rpms the timing chain seemed to be quite loose and just skidded over some metal parts anyway, i went for a test drive and the supposed 5hp and 2lb torque are quite noticable so much that i can now drive the car easily from 1500rpms to 2100rpms and get up to spee really nicely around the city. Rather than the previous 1800rpms-2400rpms range. I checked the compression pressure today and it was 210psi all cilinders.Some things i noticed though, to all you bastards (chinabean) that say that a 2001 engine swap is easy, all you have to do is swap out the distributor, and manifolds, i say screw you. It is possible to swap a 2001 or 200 engine nissan altima engine into the 1993-199 altimas, but really the only things that are the same is the block, and cylinder head, everything else you have to take off and install what your previous engine had. For example i had to swap out the 2001 distributor, intake manifold, A/C compressor support bracket, water thermostat/egr housing, alternator bracket and support. The cool thing though is that ALL ka24de blocks and cylinder heads for the 1993-2001 altimas have the same bolt locations so, keep your old engine around,(DO NOT trade it in for the core charge) take the 2001 engine and swap whatever you see is different for example, the 2001 altima engine had a smaller air compressor, and yet a bigger alternator, so you simply take whatever brackets you need from your old engine and that's it. Anyway back to the topic, i notice these cams make the engine backfire more, pretty cool i suppose the cams leave the exhaust valves open a bit more and thus better backfires . Now we all know that the 2000-2001 have 5 more hp and 2lbs torgue more than the 93-99 altima engines, the block is exactly the same, that's a fact, what did change to get more power was, the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and cylinder head(softer springs and more agressive cams). All these net a supposed 5hp. Looking at the intake manifold,the intake plenum it looks alot bigger compared to the 93-99 engines it's huge! the intake runners though are the same size, the reasons for the intake plenum being much bigger are for better low end power, also the exhaust manifold is less restrictive, and as far as the cylinder head the springs are softer, therefore the cams don't loose as much energy when smacking down the valves, this translates to more energy you might say but softer springs leaves us more prone to valve float, not with a 6500rpm rev limit it won't that's a fact, that's why nissan decided to go with softer springs. And of course there are the cam profiles, haven't checked exactly how much more different they are but they are different and produce more power more efficiently that's a fact also. And for all you guys that read through all this theres a prize haha. Here we go, it turns out that i took out the engine and left the transmission inside the car, having an ACT ss clutch and Unorthodox Racing Flywheel i of couse swapped them out to the new engine, so to install the flywheel and clutch i had to take out the ring gear. So i did and so i took out the ring gear, now to take it out you have to unscrew it in a circular pattern the hole can be seen here:

http://i28.tinypic.com/s182md.jpg

now, this is a picture of the ring gear being attached with my old ring gear plate (let's call it ring gear plate) around it, goes the flywheel,
http://i30.tinypic.com/5cdtp3.jpg

This is a picture of the ring gear plate, it looks lightweight but it is not made of alluminum it's steel, very heavy i'd say atleast 8 pounds:
http://i31.tinypic.com/330w9xv.jpg

So, of course i was expecting to find a similar thing ring gear plate on the new engine but the new one had a very skinny less than one pound ring gear plate, i didn't take a picture of it but it was this skinny: to the left is the original ring gear plate and to the right is the thickness of the 2001 engine ring gear plate

http://i32.tinypic.com/4lhjz4.jpg

In conclusion the new ring gear plate holder from the 2001 engine is about 7 pounds lighter than the 93-99 engine, it can be installed on automatic, or 5sps transmissions for altimas 93-2001. So what's the big deal with saving 7 pounds well consider that there are people (me) that drop $300-400 for a light weight flywheel, the benefits for which you can research yourself, so drop 300-400 for saving 8pounds on your drive train, or find a 2000-2001 engine at your local junk yard and beg for them to sell you the ring gear and ring gear plate holder. Damn this is a long rambling, confusing, yet hopefully helpfull post if anyone has any questions of what the hell i just said post up.
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100 Shot Zex Direct Port
DMH Electric Exhaust Cut out
H.S. Header
Custom WAI
U.R. Pulley
Automatic Throttle Body
U.R. Flywheel
AFC Neo
AEM WideBand
MSD 6+
A.C.T Clutch S/S
Custom Short Shifter
ST Rear Sway bar
A-Arm Brace
ES Control Arm Bushings
18" Centerline RPM (15lbs!)
225/40/18Yokohoma Parada Spec2
Eibach springs/kyb struts
Rear disk conversion (Brembo Slotted/Drilled)
http://www.putfile.com/f1altima
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