xXLoganXx's Intake Manifold Results

[SFLA_3.5 SE]

I read through this thread and didn't find the answers, but maybe I missed it.

I have two questions:

1. Do I cap off the vacuum line if I just remove the butterfly valve (round gold plate), or do I just leave the vacuum line connected to the power valve actuator (same as stock)?
   
   
2. Does anyone know the factory torque specs for the three 12mm bolts when re-assembling the VIAS?

Originally Posted by hacku

The round gold plate is the only thing you need to remove. There are 2 phillips screws holding it in place. Make sure you use the right size screwdriver to remove them as they are VERY tight on there or you'll end up stripping them. Once you remove the screws, take the metal flap out and reinstall the rest of the assembly.

INSTANT HORSEPOWER!!!

Originally Posted by froedrick

All you do is take out the two screws and the gold butterfly. You don't actually remove the whole power valve. Then you just reinstall the cover and you should be good to go. I haven't done this one yet, because I'm still curious as to whether or not, or how this will work without toyally messing up the cars ability to regulate the fuel-air mixture according to throttle position. Any answers, please. Maybe I'm a dummy and just don't understand the Alty's FI system that well. Help!

Originally Posted by xXLoganXx

I think you have a misunderstanding of the the VIAS and "Power Valve" actually do. Let me try to help you out...

VIAS
Sytem Description
When the engine is running at low or medium speed, the power valve is fully closed. Under this condition, the
effective suction port length is equivalent to the total length of the intake manifold collector's suction port
including the intake valve. This long suction port provides increased air intake which results in improved suction
efficiency and higher torque generation.
The surge tank and one-way valve are provided. When engine is running at high speed, the ECM sends the
signal to the VIAS control solenoid valve. This signal introduces the intake manifold vacuum into the power
valve actuator and therefore opens the power valve to two suction passages together in the collector.
Under this condition, the effective port length is equivalent to the length of the suction port provided independently
for each cylinder. This shortened port length results in enhanced engine output with reduced suction
resistance under high speeds.

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
Power Valve
The power valve is installed in intake manifold collector and used to
control the suction passage of the variable induction air control system.
It is set in the fully closed or fully opened position by the power
valve actuator operated by the vacuum stored in the surge tank. The
vacuum in the surge tank is controlled by the VIAS control solenoid
valve.

VIAS Control Solenoid Valve
The VIAS control solenoid valve cuts the intake manifold vacuum
signal for power valve control. It responds to ON/OFF signals from
the ECM. When the solenoid is off, the vacuum signal from the
intake manifold is cut. When the ECM sends an ON signal the coil
pulls the plunger downward and feeds the vacuum signal to the
power valve actuator.

Also, keep in mind that the ECU will automatically compensate for the little amount of extra air flow, and add fuel if that's what you're worried about. You don't think you car is faster on a cold day due to JUST the cold air do you? Cold air is denser allowing more of it, thus increasing your fuel for the ever so lightly higher combustion.... and therefore.....faster! Come on Froedrick... you know this!

Hope that helps! Now take that damn thing off you puss!!

[SFLA_3.5 SE]

I just tried removing the butterfly flap and I could not find any phillips to fit the two screws. I don't want to strip out the screw head.

Does anyone know what size phillips is the one to use? I tried a #1, #2, and #3 phillips, but they all started slipping. I can't beleive this sh*t!!! Removing two little phillips screws are supposed to be the easiest part of this whole thing.

[SFLA_3.5 SE]

Well, I got the butterfly flap out and ended up stripping one of the screws. I decided to drill out the stripped screw and now the gold flap is out permanently.

I also broke the little plastic clip that holds the connector from the power valve actuator to the power valve assembly. So now the connector keeps slipping off everytime the PCM sends the signal to open the power valve flap (but I guess it doesn't matter because there is no longer a flap that needs to be opened).

If I want to put it back to stock I will have to buy the whole power valve assembly (hope it's not too expensive).

I can't tell if this mod made a difference or not. I guess I will know for sure the next time I go to the track.

[RealDealSE-R]

Originally Posted by xXLoganXx

Guys,

It's done!! Hell mofo'in yea.....it's done!! I had a big scare when I left one of the vacuum hoses undone... but I knew what the problem was. No leaks... best of all, I'm not leaking oil into that cylinder anymore either!

Here's what we got done....

• Polished the WHOLE intake assembly (Upper,Lower Plenum, 90deg, BerkV2 interior welds.
• Removed the divider in the manifold, now a single plane setup instead of dual.
• Capped of the upper plenum with 1/4" Diamond Plate Aluminum, Polished.
• "Performance" Gaskets for the Intake Manifold, which are about five times thicker then OEM and made out of a heat resistant material.
• Iridium Plugs - NGK
• Increased to 75 wet shot.
• Replaced Valve Covers and gaskets with 2005 part numbers. Very impressed with the improved quality and smaller Orings in the chambers making for a real snug fit. Not to mention, more then HALF the price!!!
• Replaced Valve Oil Breather with stand alone filter.
• Used Permatex Ultra Black where gaskets were needed. Except gasket where Upper meets Lower. Replaced with OEM gasket.

Now..... let me just say that I am really pleased with the results. The car absolutely SCREAMS past 3500rpms. You do loose a little low end torque, but nothing enough to care. I just did about a 55' burnout on my block....lol... she still gets it for sure!! After taking it around for a little bit... the car definetly had a personality change.. sounds meaner from the front as well. Couldn't be happier... fixed my oil leak, did a very responsive mod, new plugs, etc. etc... I highly recommend this mod to people that would like to increase their top end... gotta go.... have to find me a Z or a G to toy with!!

I want to thank everyone that has helped me with this mod.. if it wasn't for this forum... I would be completely lost. Thanks again.....

how much would u charge me if i sent u my intake ??? Seriously

[SFLA_3.5 SE]

Originally Posted by SFLA_3.5 SE

Well, I got the butterfly flap out and ended up stripping one of the screws. I decided to drill out the stripped screw and now the gold flap is out permanently.

I also broke the little plastic clip that holds the connector from the power valve actuator to the power valve assembly. So now the connector keeps slipping off everytime the PCM sends the signal to open the power valve flap (but I guess it doesn't matter because there is no longer a flap that needs to be opened).

If I want to put it back to stock I will have to buy the whole power valve assembly (hope it's not too expensive).

I can't tell if this mod made a difference or not. I guess I will know for sure the next time I go to the track.

I just ordered a new Power Valve assembly from Nissan. Now that I will have a stock replacement power valve, I am going to completely cut out the plate that holds the butterfly flap. This way I will have the same gutted internal plate as if I removed the power valve and made a cover out of metal or plexiglass, but from the outside it will look completely factory. This is a good alternative for those who can't bother cutting the shape from metal or plexiglass. This way you can also re-use the stock power valve gasket and you won't have to cap off the vacuum line or remove the solenoid.

Now that I will have two power valves I can quickly swap them out when I get my car dynoed and when I go to the track. I will also never have to worry about stripping another screw . I will be able to perform back to back runs on the dyno and at the track.

Once I find out which one nets better Dyno Numbers and better ET/Trap Speed I will update the thread.

[RealDealSE-R]

Hey Logan i dont know ya but hope the best for ur engine build soo heres a site that might* interest ya Z-1 Performance Automotive Services Inc. and this is the main site for engine mods.Z-1 Performance Automotive Services Inc. thank me later bro and good luck.

[roro]

Originally Posted by SFLA_3.5 SE

Now that I will have two power valves I can quickly swap them out when I get my car dynoed and when I go to the track. I will also never have to worry about stripping another screw . I will be able to perform back to back runs on the dyno and at the track.

Once I find out which one nets better Dyno Numbers and better ET/Trap Speed I will update the thread.

nice.... i'll be waiting on those results... especially for the dyno graphs to see the effects at all RPMs

[maxspeed96ct]

Wow im doing this as soon as as the intake spacers are made by arron on maxima.org ( wont let me post a link cause im new)

Should be out any day.

Together it should make some good power.

I gotta check these foroums much more often.



So whats the best product for polishing it , the dremal bits or the sandpaper sponge thing? ?


Also do you guys know if ill have to get my safc retunned??

[Blacktop_Prefect]

^Nice videos. Is your SAFC II street tuned?

[maxspeed96ct]

Dyno tunned.

Im not puttin down the numbers I should be tho, im trying to figure out whats wrong.

Put down 229hp
and 232 tq

corrected

Should be closer to 240....

[King_Milo]

Not sure but would you get the same effect if you just capped off each end so the thing wouldnt activate. And how much is a replacement piece, Im wondering cuz I stripped the piss out of the screws and wanna know if the other will work before I go a little crazy with the dremel.

[SFLA_3.5 SE]

I stripped my screws too. The spare piece is $120 retail. I got for $80 bucks because I have a friend in Nissan parts.

[gbjna98]

if anyone is interested in a diamond plate cover to replace the stock/butterfly plate, let me know. i had my dad fabricate some for me, since he is a welder. they came out pretty nice. i have 5 available to sell. i will post pics as soon as i get home. as far as the vacuum line, it is eliminatedto the cover, so all you would have to do is cap off the line at the IM.

Here is the link to the sale thread for pics and price. Diamond Plate Cover

[RealDealSE-R]

Originally Posted by mikehawk

Everything looks good except for that breather you stuck on the valve cover. I know you're trying to keep oil out of the intake, but this is a closed fuel injected system calibrated by the MAF. That little line from the valve cover tapped into the intake AFTER the MAF sensor, so by sticking a breather on there you essentially opened up the system. I'm not saying it's a big deal or anything, but I wouldn't do it. Well, actually, I've done it and reversed on my last car.

If you're really concerned about sucking in oil, then rig up a couple oil catch cans. You can stick one on that line, and put one on the line from the PCV valve to the IM.

Here's some pics from another member, his name is Kamski. And I think the prices on the receipt are in canadian dollars, so it should be a little cheaper for us.
New Page 1

lol,it says righton the catchcan* to avoid using synthetic oils in it hehee.

[bigirish]

Originally Posted by RealDealSE-R

lol,it says righton the catchcan* to avoid using synthetic oils in it hehee.

Don't worry about it.........that is with big ass power tools using serious psi. That little vacuum will not pose any issue for that catch can running synthetic oil.