P0021! How do you replace? - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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P0021! How do you replace?

Got a code today on the way home from work. Checked it out and it was P0021, Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2. How would someone replace this solenoid? Know where I can find this out?

Thanks,
GENE


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Last edited by Leathe of Heaven; 12-12-2007 at 06:12 AM.
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post #2 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 04:42 AM
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It's in the service manual, which we all know is kind of vague, at best, but there's a parts breakdown in the manual. The solenoid and code are listed under Engine Control, and the location is shown in the parts breakdown for the engine mechanical. Here's a link to the manuals. Wish I could be more help. Hope this does, though. The valve for each bank is under a small cover on the front of the timing chain housing. You can tell from that it's not going to be terribly easy to get at, but I think do-able. Good luck. Nissan Service Manuals

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post #3 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Yup, already checked the FSM. From the LOOKS of it I have to remove the valve cover along with the cover on the timing chain cover. But it doesn't go into detail on whether or not it will require the removal of the timing chain/cover. If it does, I'm SCREWED! But before I go ordering parts left and right I'm going to make sure it's actually a problem. Cleared the code. If it comes back (or if more pop up dealing with the problem) then I'll know for sure something is up. Until then.. I'll keep it slow and smooth. All the IVTCS does is actuate the flow of oil to the cams which "changes" cam timing to give more power in the mid-high range. Or at least that's what I think it does. I wont be doing any racing till April-May so I have a lot of time.

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post #4 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 06:59 AM
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Leathe, I have this code come up periodically as well as the P0011 code. I clear them and don't see it again for months. The car doesn't behave any differently when it throws this code so I'm thinking it ain't that important. that may seem ignorant but I'm not spending a couple hundred bucks and all day changing this thing if I won't notice any difference. Bank 2 is at the front and I don't think you have to remove the timing chain et al. I think it's fairly easy to do for someone mechanically inclined...which I'm not (that's why I said all day for me). Now that you've cleared the code, see if it comes back and go from there. Keep posting about your issues, I'd like to see if you can get it resolved.

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post #5 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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From what I can see all it takes is some tools and time to get this thing changed out. If the code comes back up and I end up replacing it I'll try and remember to make a "step-by-step" write up. I was going to do when I replaced my stud but it ended up being SO easy that I didn't think any one would need a write up.

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post #6 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 02:13 PM
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Gene,

I get this code all the time. I actually tend to get this code if I do not let the car warm up properly before I go past 3000rpms. If I clear it, I don't see it for months on end. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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post #7 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I wasn't driving the car that aggressively. I believe I got it maybe a mile from my work which is usually about 2-3 minutes. By then the car is probably one or two lines above from cold. I usually shift at 2.5k-3k, so it could be just that. The car didn't exhibit any of the typical symptoms from a solenoid failure. Didn't run rough, didn't pop a misfire code, just that SES and a smooth ride home. The performance didn't seem affected either. Was as snappy as always. Hum.

We'll see. Drove the car around today and so far nothing. If it pops back up then I'll know the sensor has gone kapoot. If not, I wont worry about it much.

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post #8 of 31 Old 12-12-2007, 04:40 PM
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Gene- I guess I was late replying, but liljohnny's correct. I looked at the parts breakdown for the exhaust system and Bank #1 is the rear(right) bank and Bank #2 is the left (front) bank of the engine. And of course we all know the actual front of the engine is pointed toward the right front fender. Good luck and keep us posted. I really think all you may have to remove is the one small round cover at the front end of the intake cam for the bank you're changing out the sensor on. Hope this helps. regards, Fred

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post #9 of 31 Old 10-07-2011, 07:42 PM
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Just got the P0021 code here, I think, this is the 2nd time I have had it, car behaves the same, just cleared the code, so we'll see.

Sounds like a periodical problem for some, myself included?


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post #10 of 31 Old 10-08-2011, 05:19 AM
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I have had the issue as well with the same code, it seems to come and go(CEL), I have never noticed any changes in the car whatsoever when its on so who knows. My car only has 76,000 miles on it.


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post #11 of 31 Old 04-14-2012, 06:01 PM
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Got this code again, SES light came on on Thursday night, it was about 25 cooler than it has been and raining. This code seems to come on when there are cooler than usual temperatures, and higher humidity. Beats me, car runs fine,


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post #12 of 31 Old 11-28-2012, 06:33 PM
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Well here it is again. Just cleared it. Came on last night after work. Temps were approximately 20 and the relative humidity was high.

Got it cleared and will carry on as before. Don't believe this code is anything to worry about. Does anyone care to correct me on that front?

Car is up to 138,5xx miles.


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post #13 of 31 Old 12-09-2012, 07:57 PM
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The P0021 and P0011 codes are most commonly associated with oil condition. the valves in question are both operated by oil pressure. The codes get set when ever the computer and sensor read that the valve did not move exactly as expected. Dirty oil can cause the valve to stick and low oil pressure can cause it to not move properly.

Before you go trying to replace anything check your oil carfully. Also this is a very common code amoung the older VQ engines. I would only suggest condeming the valve or sensor if it happens frequently and shortly after an oil change.

I get the code only when I am late on an oil change and sometimes when I dont let the engine warm up in cold weather.
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post #14 of 31 Old 12-09-2012, 08:20 PM
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i got those two codes, i went to monro where i work and they didnt want to mess with it. I dont like to just leave something if its messed up so i had to get it fixed. Took it to the dealership to get it diagnosed, ended up being the oil pressure sensor for me. $90 for the diagnosis and like $22 for the sensor and all together with tax like $125. Only thing i noticed was a small noise difference in my engine when i had the code, now that i replaced the sensor i no longer hear it so pretty sure that was it. Moral of the story, if its really bugging you then go and get it diagnosed. Well worth it!

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post #15 of 31 Old 12-12-2012, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howie203 View Post
The P0021 and P0011 codes are most commonly associated with oil condition. the valves in question are both operated by oil pressure. The codes get set when ever the computer and sensor read that the valve did not move exactly as expected. Dirty oil can cause the valve to stick and low oil pressure can cause it to not move properly.

Before you go trying to replace anything check your oil carfully. Also this is a very common code amoung the older VQ engines. I would only suggest condeming the valve or sensor if it happens frequently and shortly after an oil change.

I get the code only when I am late on an oil change and sometimes when I dont let the engine warm up in cold weather.
Same here, it happens when its cold and humid. I should probably let the engine warm up more, as well as top off the oil. I'm not due for a change for another 1.000 miles, but I may do it early just because the temperatures are really starting to dip. Thanks for your input.


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