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N/A motor build pictures

24K views 148 replies 23 participants last post by  sprocketser 
#1 · (Edited)
SOHO motorsports assembled short block. a lot of goodies went into this. Everything is coated by Calico,(http://www.calicocoatings.com/) crank polished and material removed also done by Calico. This is what i wanted in my bottom end for 300+whp and 8,000rpm. my vq35de will be around 3.7 liters with the overbore and CC material removed. this is the first .040 vq35 n/a motor i believe. i know 100 mm pistons have been done as a large stroker motor but with a closed deck. this is an open deck like the stock setup. Closing the deck and running larger pistons is about 3-4k more than the option i chose.
Wiseco 11.1 pistons 96.5mm .040 overbore
Eagle rods
Nismo oil pump
ARP bolts throughout
ACL bearings
Cometic .051 over head gasket

Rotating assembly completed, 1-2 months before i will go pick her up and install in my altima. more updates later. this is the last major milestone i got the pictures a week ago or so. enjoy

Cylinder 3 is sleeved if anyone noticed.






The heads are totally reworked and have JWT C8 cams installed along with JWT springs, DLC vqhr buckets, ported intake and exhaust ports, Combustion chamber coated and material removed, valve work on stock valves, and mating surface decked. ill share more pictures as i get them the heads are being torqued and installed soon.
 
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#2 ·
Nice looking build. I can't wait to see your numbers and how you like it.
 
#6 · (Edited)
YES i live in Saint Louis Missouri!
YES i did transport my engine to SOHO because i wanted the best engine i could get with the parts i purchased on my own! 300 WHP will be a joke! i am building for way more! Even if it takes some N2o later down the road! Every part was examined and was either replaced or upgraded. Every part under the hood, suspension related, etc.. this is my altima se r dream car.

THANK YOU to everyone that replied and everyone that is checking up for updates! i am sure i will get another contact from SOHO soon saying my engine is ready for pickup with new pictures.
 
#7 ·
You have another subscriber....lol. What did it cost for them to do all the work on the motor for you?
 
#8 · (Edited)
2,500$ for all the machine work and assembly.
600$ for Calico Coatings on everything.

i have paid SOHO motorsports 3,100$ for their work. i literally drove them 5 boxes full of parts and a bare block and asked them to make it the best engine they can build. take as much time as you need and money is no object. i want a premium product, a piece of art in my mind. That is what justifies the $$ for my engine.

I predict i will spend more time staring and rubbing my car than actually driving it. It is like art for me, except it captures all of your senses. :D
 
#11 · (Edited)
i am going to tune with Uprev at first by myself. After the engine is properly broken in and such, i will have a professional tuner try to tune with Uprev on a dyno. i am interested in the dyno #'s myself, but it is not that important to me. If the car drives amazing and im not having any problems it is not a priority for me to get it professionally tuned. im sure there wont be much room for improvement from what i can do i am confident in my abilities to tune an engine, even though i have never done it before. It seems like something i would be good at :D How hard can it really be to listen to an engine and use a knock sensor? then adjust some data values, check some boxes, uncheck a couple, and bam. lol. at least that is what im imagining.

But i will say later down the road haltech is what i want. its my first choice, it just costs 2,500$ and i am not confident in any tuner in my area with haltech or vq35de's.
 
#13 · (Edited)
No you cannot. Limp mode happens for a good reason. it takes a lot for the ECU to put your engine into limp mode. IF IT IS NOT A TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION, OR A MAF SENSOR PROBLEM. Uprev does not let you control the parameters for putting the ECU into limp mode. you cannot even modify the limp mode tables.

in my (newb) understanding of Uprev, you utilize the extra memory in the ECU to install Uprev, which uses the Nissan Engine control tables with your "suggested" engine control tables.. you do not have any other control of the car other than the some engine data points. in fact you do not even have total control of the engine's parameters either, there are variables that you cannot change because Uprev's software uses the stock ecu as well as its program installed with the ecu.

Uprev is like an addition to your factory ECU, not a stand alone ECU so that being said you have limited control of engine control tables. You can enter values into it, BUT you have to see what the ECU does with your modified tables.

F.E. lets say you install Uprev tuner version on your Altima SeR ECU. you want to change the ignition advance because you have larger cams now and you want to minimize power lost in the low rpm's. 1st you start and run your car with the new cams installed, and you create a log of your drive. first idling, then partial throttle, then full throttle.

from your log you will have #'s that the ECU has recorded. you change the "targets" that the ECU has to your liking. with ignition advance i believe you are dealing with degree's past TDC. but is not so simple as +4 degrees 2-3.5k rpm. if you enter is +4 degrees, you will not get a +4. its something you have to play with to see optimal results because of how the Nissan ECU works and because you cannot see or modify certain tables pertaining to ignition advance, safe mode, IAT, humidity, operating temp, and some other data points. you cannot modify what you cannot see! Uprev is great for tuning A/F ratios, and modifying some ECU functions such as WOT control in low gears, and top speed limiter. Also what can be useful is CEL management. however fine tuning ignition timing is very difficult using Uprev for the reasons i have already mentioned.

i hope this helps with your understanding of using Uprev. i will have more information and understanding of the software once i start to use it soon.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for taking the time to explain that to me.

That is the best explanation I have seen yet on Uprev.

From what you wrote it would seem as Uprev will be all I will need for my project as its not an all out race car........

Maybe we can swap note when we get our stuff up, and running.
 
#16 ·
YES!
11.1 wiesco pistons
i do not have the exact numbers of the compression ratio after all of the cylinder head modifications and using the cometic head gasket. i figure the compression will be around 11.1-12.1. i will definitely have all of the juicy numbers when i go to pick up the engine soon.

My last contact with SOHO motorsports was on the phone with Nik on 10/3. The cylinder heads have been settling for a month, and he is going to torque them down for the last time to final specs within the next week. (i imagine now this is complete) I am thinking another month or so for the rest of the engine to be assembled. i asked him to take his time and make sure this is the best engine he can build, with no time table and i do not want him to rush, or work on it tired, hungry, etc. :D

One day it will be done and i will be way east in NC and SC for a week and haul my engine back home. Oh it will be a glorious day!
 
#18 · (Edited)
Yes i have modified the transmission, and the rest of the car will not be OEM.
Red Lion Racing solid shift bushings
JWT flywheel
Exedy stage 1 clutch kit (both flywheel and clutch balanced with engine)
Rebuilt transmission with SONNAX parts(75k miles no issues with trans at time of rebuild :D)
Phantom differential upgrade, this was cheaper than the Maxima LSD and i was told by my transmission guy (Chris Pounds @ CP Transmission in Valley Park, MO) that the part is of very high quality.
Amsoil 75w-90 gear oil for Nissan Transmissions

I think the OEM throw length is nice, so i chose not to get a short throw shifter from Axxion.
And as for the gearing, i am not convinced that the ratios need to be changed with a n/a build. the car should be very fast with OEM 6speed gearing. I have heard of a past member modifying his F.D. for better highway mileage, but this does not interest me now that i have 3 cars. the Altima is just a Sunday car now and will not see D.D. duty ever again.

The rest of the car is getting the 5 star treatment for sure. i have modified what i can and what i wanted to, and i have replaced all other drive train related parts. The only area of the car i havent gotten to yet is the interior, but i do not have the desire to replace anything in the interior besides the seats, wheel, and to remove the audio equipment.
I powdercoated all engine bay brackets, some suspension components, and both sub frames hammer tone glossy black. i powder coated the rims as well, and purchased a new Wilwood Big Brake Kit, carbon fiber hood, new headlights, tail lights, front bumper cover, rear bumper cover (i bought the car with a 3.5 SE rear bumper and SE tail lights) solid mounts from red lion racing for the engine, trans, and both sub frames.

The plan for the exhaust is a FWD replica/copy of SG longtube headers for the 350z. i am not going to build the headers myself, but i will have them built after the engine and trans is installed. im thinking dump valves after the collector on the y pipe, and 3" piping to the tailpipe. 2 Vibrant inline resonators, 1 inline vibrant muffler, and 1 HKS muffler as the tail pipe, therefore a single exit exhaust.

Thanks for the question! i will be happy to answer any others to the best of my abilities!
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thank you very much for the offer to share pics. But i think that maybe a well put together thread with your photos would be a nice sticky to have for all the members. However i do not need the images, because i am having SOHO motorsports do all of the work. i will pick up an assembled engine, with timing chain covers on, oil pans, valve covers, etc.

Is this what Chris was talking about?
I'm not 100% sure i will look through my paperwork and talk to Chris sometime soon to answer your question.

Props to a man putting his money where his mouth is.
Thank you very much for the props! 10/27 was the 1 year anniversary for the car build, i am ready for all of my money, time, ideas, and effort come to form a completed car that i can drive hard on the track and cruise on the streets
 
#24 · (Edited)
These are some pictures of my intake plenum i have extensively modified. I have done the SSIM mod, and i have done a lot more work. The pictures do not do the work justice, and i have created a lot more room inside every part of the plenum. I think plenum volume will come in handy when im trying to squeeze out every last n/a HP.

Below you can see the entrance to the UIM collector, and the elbow spacer which i have cut and created a new shape. Just a light polish on the parts it picks up in photos nicely.


Below i tried to show how much material i have removed around the TB mounting area. i have also increased the size of the NWP adapter plate, i chose to keep it. You can see that i tried to keep the wing tip shapes, but i had to modify them a little bit just because of the large amount of aluminum i have removed around the area. The 2nd picture is of the other end of the elbow, you can see another one of my attempts to make a nice shape and remove a lot of material.



Below you can see the UIM collector. This is where most of the time went. You can see i have completely removed the shelf, and smoothed it out to a beautiful curve. You can also see i have removed a lot of aluminum near the VIAS block plate, worked on the walls inside as well. I also ported the runners on both sides. I included four shots of the UIM collector. I port matched the elbow to the UIM collector as well, it has a really nice shape to it.





And last i have pictures of my LIM. A lot of work went into this piece, just like the other two pieces. Enjoy.


One last note. i hate fireball whiskey i just use random boxes i take home from work. And i dont brush my teeth in the garage :D
 
#26 ·
One last note. i hate fireball whiskey i just use random boxes i take home from work. And i dont brush my teeth in the garage :D
Hey, we don't judge :wink
 
#27 · (Edited)
These are two more pictures i wanted to include in my post with pictures on my intake plenum. (but i'm limited to 10 photos per post) They are of the elbow wall near the TB mounting area, and another shot of the elbow on the UIM collector mating surface.



I also wanted to add my 2 favorite pictures from last year when i was removing the engine. They are shots after most of the work was done, and i can remember how stressed out i was at this point! It's nice to look back now things are much different than the pictures show!

 
#28 ·
I dont compliment often (often enough that is) so take this as you may....THIS is perhaps the nicest, most detailed SSIM porting I have EVER seen. Nothing I have seen or paid for comes even close. Very impressed! ($500.00 huh? A lil pricey but hey...) I think you should have gone ALLLLLLL out since your going all out, and reamed this beesh all the way out to the imfamous stoked 4.1L, sleeved, and min an 80mm TB if not the larger LS7 TB....lol I jokes but yeah, there is some real detail in this work!
 
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#30 ·
HOLY SHIT MAN! This is F***ing B-E-A-UUUUTIFUL! Whats that cost in all for the motor rebuild? I am thinking of getting a new motor dropped in when I get back. I was quoted just over 6K installed.

Seeing those pics made me want that motor....Holy shit man! Great build and great job on the IM....
 
#31 · (Edited)
HOLY SHIT MAN! This is F***ing B-E-A-UUUUTIFUL! Whats that cost in all for the motor rebuild?
On Page 1 i have answered how much i spent on the assembly, machine work, and coatings. I bought everything listed on the 1st post from z1 motorsports. I also got all new timing chain everything(VTC pullies, tensioners, guides, o rings, waterpump, etc.) I think i paid roughly 7k in parts. The heads were the most expensive part. But everything else to go with the build was about another 7k. So far. i still need custom headers, and i need to purchase an ECU. I'm going back and forth on a Haltech unit from SurraTT. And on top of all that i keep thinking about running ITB from jenvey and making an airbox for the throttles. Im not sure i dont like to think about exact numbers with the amount ive blown on my Altima SeR build :D

What will it be like to park in the garage? I still don't know!
Well right now my 93 explorer is taking up the 2nd spot because i am in the process of putting in new brake line all around.. Fun time. everytime i take off a part i see 2 that need to be replaced. But the ford 4.0 v6 will run forever so im fixing it to daily drive. i like to have an automatic to cruise around in i spend a lot of time on the roads.

I will have new pictures next week of the assembly from SOHO motorsports! Thanks for everyones support and props. I will keep everyone posted on updates as they happen. I did talk to Nik today, and he informed me that the ATI pulley i wanted to run is not compatible with my FWD vq35de because it has 1 less rib. the 350z pulley has an extra rib.. Or something like that i mostly remember him saying that the ATI pulley won't work. Sounds strange i was told on these forums that the 350z pulleys can be used on the Altimas.. Nik is going to contact fluidampr for me, and i hope that their pulley will work or that Nik and ATI were incorrect. Running a stock pulley or a aftermarket light-weight pulley would not be what i want for my build. I will be upset if i have to customize all my pulleys just to run a crank pulley dampener!

Thank you to everyone for your kind words! I put a lot of work into my SSIM for my n/a engine build and i am happy to see my work is well received by the community!
 
#32 ·
I feel your pain. My code red SER is sitting out in the weather with some really artistic bird poop on my new paint job.

I've currently got six cars in garages on my property so I think I will have to at least make an open run off from one of the garages to keep the car out of the weather [bird poop, hail, pine straw, etc.].

Great job on your project, do you have a projected date that you hope to be finished?
 
#33 · (Edited)
I've currently got six cars in garages on my property so I think I will have to at least make an open run off from one of the garages to keep the car out of the weather [bird poop, hail, pine straw, etc.].

Great job on your project, do you have a projected date that you hope to be finished?
Oh man i would love that much space. But i'm sure it is a burden and a blessing to have all that property to maintain and protect.

Do i have a projected finish date? well It was August 2014 :crying
I probably will not scramble to get everything done this winter and not try to make a pig push for the finish. I plan on getting the engine back in early December, and once its back in my hands i'm sure i will go bananas and try to put it in the car on the same day i return home. After the engine + transmission goes in, i will put the suspension and wheels on. I will tow it to a shop to have long tube headers built. But i won't start the engine until i get the headers built... I figure i want to hear it first start on the exhaust that will be exactly what i THINK i want.

I think the specifications for the SG headers that were produced for the 350 z are: 1 7/8" Primary tube off the block (18" length) , stepped up to 2 1/4" pipe (12" length) then to a nice 3 to 1 collector to a stepped 2 1/2" pipe (3 ft length). Finally a 2 to 1 merge collector (again nice) to a stepped 3 1/2" pipe.(12" length)
I am not 100% on the specs, and who knows what the builder of them will say when i come forth with my specifications i would like :D. There are pictures of the SG headers online as well, i'm hoping that will be useful to the builder to identify piping diameter and length.

Right now my main concern is building a high quality car that goes together flawlessly. Ideally the project will wrap up in the spring time when the weather warms up. But there is still so much to do even once the engine gets back.. I have rusted floors, brakes to install, and an untouched rear end.. Plenty of work to keep me busy!
 
#34 ·
"Right now my main concern is building a high quality car that goes together flawlessly."

In my own experience I have found that to be a hard thing to accomplish.

There is always a bolt that I didn't get tight, an oil leak, or something to drive me nuts after everything is all together.

I finally got my wife to watch some of these corny car resto/reality shows with me. Then when a team of six people get ready to fire up a new engine, and something unexpected happens, I can say, "see, it happens to everyone, and I don't have six people helping".

When it finally comes time to crank my new engine my a$$ will be tight until I have a month of driving the car with no big issues.
 
#35 ·
When it finally comes time to crank my new engine my a$$ will be tight until I have a month of driving the car with no big issues.
HAHA! I know that feeling. Been doing that since I got everything fixed....Oil light, P1273. So much time and effort goes into rebuilding/fixing, that when it's done, the pucker factor goes up by ten....
 
#43 ·
Another picture of all four
*drooling*

Those are gorgeous, Bud! I love the gold with the red inlay. That is downright sexy! I'm very happy they turned out well for you!

I'm now running on my Ray's 57F setup, and I'm lovin' 'em. Glad the oldies found a good home. :grin

Also... can't wait to see the completed build - it's been a labor of love for quite a while, huh? You better freakin' take some video and post it up in addition to the picks - we need to hear her roar...
 
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