Fast intake manifold gasket replacement - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
 
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Old 07-27-2007, 04:18 PM
paradox96 paradox96 is offline
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Fast intake manifold gasket replacement

should not take too long. you don't have to take valve cover off like I did. I was doing other things

one thing you absolutely need is swivel 1/4 adapter.

first take off fuel delivery line and injectors in one piece. I like to take things apart in big chunks. like in divide and conquer principle. obviously you need to take out intake hose, flush coolant and oil.


disconnect these heater hoses.


loosen power steering pump bolts. upper bolt is easy to access. lower 14mm bolt you either have to get underneath the car or guide your hand through route indicated by red arrow. you can see lower 14mm bolt if ps pulley's hole is in it's lowest position. but you cant get it unless you remove some mounts and lower the engine. use regular wrench. and use 12point side to loosen 14mm bolt.


then move ps pump out of the way. next unscrew 3 10mm pcv valve housing bolts. you don't need to disconnect ps return line. I did other shit so that's why it's disconnected.


then get underneath and you will see a bracket next to power steering pump. unscrew both 12 mm bolts.don't have pic of the bracket.
next unscrew these 2 12 mm bolts on driver side of intake.


now you will need to use the swivel adapter to unscrew the 10 bolts. some pic just to get an idea:
upper passanger side bolt

lower



I had to remove EGR valve because I did not have 1/4 wrench and mine did not fit. good idea to change egr valve gasket.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6649/pic5uv5.jpg
and so on.

so one of the bolts will not come out because throttle body vacuum pipe will block it. I bent the pipe but you can unscrew indicated bolts and move the pipe out of the way.


remove EGR pipe going from exhaust to intake.

pry the pcv valve housing with screw driver. it's held by rtv sealant.

your intake is loose now.

also remove brake booster hose which goes from intake to fire panel. don't have the pic.

disconnect coolant temp sensor, egr temp sensor, throttle body sensor, basically all wires going into intake.

now you can pull it out in one piece.


if you want you can remove all electrical parts like IACV, throttle position sensor. throttle body and other parts and soak intake in degreaser. I found it's good idea to scrub as much as you can and then soak it in degreaser for couple of hours. then clean it. I used some degreaser from harbor freight. you can dilute it 1/20. so basically you can make 20gallons of degreaser for 10$. 1 gallon of that yellow degreaser is 10$ in harbor freight tools. some people use gunk.


you can replace heater hoses while you are there. size is 3/4inch. you will need 2 90degree angle heater 3/4 hoses.


I had to use 3 feet of 3/4 hose.
5 inches of 5/8 hose

5 feet of 7/9mm fuel line
5 feet of 4mm vacuum lines
1 foot of 5.6mm vacuum line
definetily replace the dipshit stock clamps with "ideal" brand clamps or something better. "ideal" brand clamps looked all round. and try to use fuel line clamps as much as you can. they are the best.

my intake and throttle body gaskets were blown big time. others were intact.
gaskets are:
intake plenum gasket.
intake manifold gasket
throttle body gasket
iacv gasket
pcv blow by gasket.
egr valve gaskets( don't know part numbers, I took my old ones to local dealer and bought there. 8$ for 2 of them.).

tricky part is to use pcv valve hose of exact length. I used a little longer. so then it was anoying to remove pcv valve and cut the hose, because the hose was bending and closing. for pcv valve you need pcv valve hose. get it an Merle's or Napa.



let me know if you need any other pic.

and big thanks to jserrano for his answers to my questions on his intake manifold gasket thread. I did not know the names of some gaskets.

Last edited by paradox96; 07-27-2007 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 07-27-2007, 04:38 PM
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98gle#2 98gle#2 is offline
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nice write up!

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Old 07-27-2007, 05:25 PM
artyx artyx is offline
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Good job! One of the best write-up ever.
How much time did it take you to do all these things?
Your engine is so shiny now, I almost got blind looking at these pictures.
FAQ it!
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Old 07-27-2007, 07:35 PM
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great write up. thanks alot. between this and jserrano's write up its making my life alot easier. i didnt know about some of the gaskets either, and was wondering about changing the hoses under there.

where did you get your gaskets from? my local parts store is kinda useless.

Thanks again, for a great write up!!
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:25 AM
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Another thanks for a great writeup.


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Old 07-30-2007, 01:29 AM
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good job. id have pulled the engine. but im quick like that.

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Old 07-30-2007, 02:56 AM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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Dude, awesome work and writeup! And that is one nice clean engine you got there. Thanks for sharing...



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Old 07-30-2007, 06:41 AM
paradox96 paradox96 is offline
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no problem. forgot to mention that to use regular(socket will not work) 12 point wrench to loosen lower ps pump bolt you need to align ps pump pulley hole with the 14 mm bolt. so the wrench goes into the pulley hole and then onto 14mm bolt.

Last edited by paradox96; 07-30-2007 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:31 AM
paradox96 paradox96 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asleep View Post
good job. id have pulled the engine. but im quick like that.
or get on severe diet to make your hand 1/2 inch in diameter. break your bones to get to the bolts. then overdoze yourself with steroids and unscrew the bolts with bare hands.

glad this thread useful for some people.
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Old 07-30-2007, 11:29 AM
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Good write up. I disconnected the 2 side engine mounts and the front mount then used a floor jack to stop the engine from sliding around. this gave me an extra 2.5 inches of working room without actually pulling the motor
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:19 PM
drunkmunky drunkmunky is offline
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Thanks for the write up. I need to do this as well.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic20104_1.gif

5 and a half inches of clearance w/ 1" wheel gap? Thank you 235/40/18's... Thank you.

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Old 07-31-2007, 05:00 PM
BIGONTS BIGONTS is offline
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Awesome write up. I need to do this on my wife's car and hopefully can save some $$ doing it myself. How long do you think it takes to do it? I'm not sure what year your car is, but my car is a 2000. Hopefully it's all the same. Do you have any pics of how many bolts hold the intake to the head and how many to the lower part of the intake? Should the lower intake gasket be changed also?

Thanks
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:15 PM
paradox96 paradox96 is offline
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8bolts and 2nuts attach intake manifold to cylinder head.
I think 5bolts of different length hold the 2 halves of intake together.

it took me about one and a half hour to take it out. half an hour I spend on figuring out why it did not want to come out. then I saw that I did not disconnect pcv valve hose. the rest is cleaning. then put it back together.
cleaning is the longest and most annoying part. just make sure you have everything before you start. all gaskets, clamps, hoses and definitely change pcv valve.

optional but highly recommended is to take apart IACV and clean those copper pipes inside. u will see them once you remove IACV from intake manifold.

actually it was about 2 hours to take it out. forgot to include time to drain coolant and remove throttle cables.
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Old 11-27-2007, 01:06 AM
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[QUOTE=paradox96;3282377]

QUOTE]

The hose that is 3/4 that has a bend, that is near the 10mm bolt with the bracket. Is this a Special hose or can I just use any regular 3/4 hose?
Also Should torque the bolts? If so what brand of toque wrench would recommend for this job a click one or the beam type wrench?
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Old 11-27-2007, 01:32 AM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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That hose is for the IACV. That hose should just be able to withstand the intake manifold heat. The bolt torque for that is not critical.



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Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps, NGK Ignition wires.
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