very nice job with these write-ups you've been posting!
what points do you like to use for the body lift points? different people seem to have different opinions on this.
thanks
i lift at this point , which is about 8 inches in from the mud flap .
also i will get the car aligned in about 5 days and i will also write a review on how i like this set-up
Very nice job. I'll move this to the 3rd Gen FAQ Forum once you write your final review and all questions are answered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phreekee25
note to mods: when how-to's get stickied, could you possibly (pleeease) host the images locally? it is frustrating to read an old how-to and find that the images are all gone/expired.
^do you use any kind of pinchweld adapter for the jack stands? if so, where did you get them?
i didn't , but you could use them if you want . i lifted at that point i showed and i put the jack stand to the side of it . just thinking about it , you could probably use a piece of 2x4 and cut a 1/2" deep notch in it across the grain , that should work .
i didn't , but you could use them if you want . i lifted at that point i showed and i put the jack stand to the side of it . just thinking about it , you could probably use a piece of 2x4 and cut a 1/2" deep notch in it across the grain , that should work .
that is so funny, because i actually made one exactly like you're describing! it didn't fit as nicely as i would have liked it to. maybe 2x3 would fit better, but by that point i just wanted to get the work on the car overwith. too much time spent with a damned block of wood and a router. first the slot wasn't wide enough, then it wasn't deep enough. it still didn't really sit flush when i was done. i did use it that one time, but i didn't feel very comfortable about it.
that is so funny, because i actually made one exactly like you're describing! it didn't fit as nicely as i would have liked it to. maybe 2x3 would fit better, but by that point i just wanted to get the work on the car overwith. too much time spent with a damned block of wood and a router. first the slot wasn't wide enough, then it wasn't deep enough. it still didn't really sit flush when i was done. i did use it that one time, but i didn't feel very comfortable about it.
^this was just during my last oil change. i lifted only enough to reach for the drain plug & filter, so the wheel wasn't even off the ground.
when i did other work (prokit, rotors, etc) i lifted at the beams underneath. something like this pic. i've heard good and bad about lifting here, though, which is why i asked about where you lift at. actually, i don't think the rear side of the beams extend as far as i made them in this pic.
Last edited by phreekee25 : 08-20-2008 at 07:21 AM.
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2005 3.5 5AT (SE-R)
Racing Line Front Strut Brace
TMS Chassis Bracing
RTP Slotted Rotors and SS Lines
Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position Tires: 245/45/18
so far the car feels great , its stiffer then factory but defiantly livable . with my original set-up (which was a little beat-up ) the car would almost bottom out over speed bumps , and a few times it did . now the car is harder to bottom out . when i use to take the car over 90 it would float around and feel unstable , now it feels stable . alot of body roll has been eliminated and the car feels tighter threw turns , braking even feels better . over all this was a great mod
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