DIY Crankshaft Position Sensor CPS 2006 2.5 Altima - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
#1 Old 04-14-2009, 05:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
DIY Crankshaft Position Sensor CPS 2006 2.5 Altima

Ok i got a 2006 altima 2.5l and had to change the CPS sensor.. I could not find a good DIY so here you go, the damn STEALER wanted 300.plus to do this.. Hell with that...

Remove the (4) allen head bolts that hold the plastic engine cover. Remove the air tube that connects the throttle chamber to air filter box. Pull off the valve cover breather hose with the air tube. Now place a drop light under the two rubber heater hoses (at the firewall on the drivers hand side), shining the light forward towards the back side of the block (below the intake runners). To see the crankshaft sensor and connector, look between the valve cover and the throttle chambers (intake runners) on the drivers side, look straight down toward the ground… look for the sensor with a black wire connector with a green tab on the side, held to the engine block with a gold colored 10mm hex headed bolt. You will need to view the sensor from this position as you are following the steps below to remove and install the crank sensor.



Here is the little problem and the green push clip that is a PITA..


You will have to push on the green part of the clip till you here a CLICK. Then just pull it off of the CPS. Mine just pushed in no prob, yet if it is hard try putting a 15mm socket on your thumb and try again so it wont cut into your thumb it will look like this when it comes off.


Next step is to get the CPS out of the side of the block, this was the hardest part for me.. Its a 10mm bolt holding it in, i took a 2in extension and reached down and put it on the bolt. then took a 4-6in extension and rachet and hooked to the already started 2in and socket and lossen it up.. Now to get the CPS out of the block you might be able to wiggle it back and forth to get it out, mine i took some needle nose pliers and grabbed it and pulled it out..



next to clean connectors and put in new CPS.. lube up the new O ring with oil slide it in the side of the block,,, then get the 10mm bolt through the sensor and into the block, kinda tricky! and torque it down think it is 8ft pounds mine is snug



then take the connector push it on the CPS till you hear a CLICK!


replace the air box and tighten everything up.. the reason i have all the pics is cause you cant see the dang CPS you gotta feel for it, i jsut stuck the camera down there and snapped some pics to get my mind right.. good luck to all with this hell with paying the STEALER 300.plus to do this..




If you would like to Donate a dollar or two to me for this write up for saving you some cash, i would be greatful... just click the link below.. thanks....
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/websc...=M2CXXRY436BWY

Last edited by muleman; 07-15-2011 at 06:08 AM.
muleman is offline  
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to muleman For This Useful Post:
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 Old 04-14-2009, 05:58 AM
Registered User
 
TuNdRaWoLf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 432
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
wow, great write up and thanks for taking the time to teach car alitterate fools like me how to save some $... +1 for this man!

TuNdRaWoLf is offline  
#3 Old 04-14-2009, 01:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 101
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by muleman View Post
Ok i got a 2006 altima 2.5l and had to change the CPS sensor.. I could not find a good DIY so here you go, the damn STEALER wanted 300.plus to do this.. Hell with that...

Remove the (4) allen head bolts that hold the plastic engine cover. Remove the air tube that connects the throttle chamber to air filter box. Pull off the valve cover breather hose with the air tube. Now place a drop light under the two rubber heater hoses (at the firewall on the drivers hand side), shining the light forward towards the back side of the block (below the intake runners). To see the crankshaft sensor and connector, look between the valve cover and the throttle chambers (intake runners) on the drivers side, look straight down toward the ground… look for the sensor with a black wire connector with a green tab on the side, held to the engine block with a gold colored 10mm hex headed bolt. You will need to view the sensor from this position as you are following the steps below to remove and install the crank sensor.



Here is the little problem and the green push clip that is a PITA..


You will have to push on the green part of the clip till you here a CLICK. Then just pull it off of the CPS. Mine just pushed in no prob, yet if it is hard try putting a 15mm socket on your thumb and try again so it wont cut into your thumb it will look like this when it comes off.


Next step is to get the CPS out of the side of the block, this was the hardest part for me.. Its a 10mm bolt holding it in, i took a 2in extension and reached down and put it on the bolt. then took a 4-6in extension and rachet and hooked to the already started 2in and socket and lossen it up.. Now to get the CPS out of the block you might be able to wiggle it back and forth to get it out, mine i took some needle nose pliers and grabbed it and pulled it out..



next to clean connectors and put in new CPS.. lube up the new O ring with oil slide it in the side of the block,,, then get the 10mm bolt through the sensor and into the block, kinda tricky! and torque it down think it is 8ft pounds mine is snug



then take the connector push it on the CPS till you hear a CLICK!


replace the air box and tighten everything up.. the reason i have all the pics is cause you cant see the dang CPS you gotta feel for it, i jsut stuck the camera down there and snapped some pics to get my mind right.. good luck to all with this hell with paying the STEALER 300.plus to do this..
muleman,

First of all I want to say thanks for your write up this step by step. I always want to replace mine but to scare to DIY and never get to do replace it.
May I ask what symptom did you had due to replaced this crankshaft position sensor? I have a 3.5 SE, do you think this sensor is in the same location as 2.5 that you mention. Thanks.

2003 Altima (AT) 3.5 SE
JohnyKing is offline  
#4 Old 04-14-2009, 05:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
hey. johnny king

the sensor on the 3.5 is in a diff spot it think you go though the passenger side wheel well to get to it.. but the reason for the change was CES light on throwing a p0335 code.. the car would buck like the tranny was slipping then throw the code, happened mostly on the interstate running around 75mph with cruise set pulling a steady grade..

Last edited by muleman; 04-14-2009 at 05:51 PM.
muleman is offline  
#5 Old 04-14-2009, 05:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
o yea i forgot to say to get the new redesigned sensor it has a metal casting around it. looks like this..

here is the old one that was bad. i would not advise putting one that looks like this back in, cause they are a bad design.

better picture of crappy designed sensor.

Last edited by muleman; 04-14-2009 at 05:56 PM.
muleman is offline  
#6 Old 04-14-2009, 08:45 PM
Ass slider
 
spike228's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 7,617
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Wow it's that simple?!?

Thanks for the right up!



Mods:
| there's a tube on the throttle body | gots some fogs too | got some sounds | HIDzzz | some metal thingy | Nismo exhaust | sport grill | NIZMO WHEELZ /Stikcy as shit tires | Fck the prop rod | header | JIHAD MIRRORS | some metal bar | LEDS | DROPed | some rubber thing | pulled out a chunk of metal | CALIPER PAINT | more metal rods |

spike228 is offline  
#7 Old 04-20-2009, 07:20 PM
Prov 24:5
 
mrbrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Awesome writeup man I am getting right on this cause mine is bucking and shuttering. I think I will replace the camshaft sensor as well since the parts are only 38 and they are the same part. Where is the camshaft sensor located? I know its easier to get to than the crankshaft sensor.

02' Altima 2.5L Alpine White - 35% Tint|6000K HIDs|Elemental Designs NINe.1|12" Alpine Type-Rs|Eclipse 5500|Optima Yellow Top|Megan Racing Header|Custom OEM Grill|Custom 4 AWG Grounding Kit|05' Red Tails
mrbrace is offline  
#8 Old 04-20-2009, 07:52 PM
zoom zoom
 
3rdgen2.5s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader: 1 reviews
I have an 05 and mine hasn't thrown in codes yet but should I replace both the crank and camshaft sensor as preventive maintenance? I have a header on the way to fix the pre-cat issue and after seeing this it seems like I should do this to prevent any other unwanted Nissan issues.

2006 Mazda 3 2.3 5MT-NEW

2005 Altima 2.5s 4AT-GONE

2007 CX-7 2.3T AWD 6AT-WIFE'S

3rdgen2.5s is offline  
#9 Old 04-20-2009, 08:09 PM
Prov 24:5
 
mrbrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Nah, I'd save a few bucks and just wait til your car shows symptoms of the issue rather than doing it as preventative maintenence. I did the precat header change too for preventative but the senors failing won't cause your engine to blow so I wouldn't worry about the sensors too much. IMO of course.

02' Altima 2.5L Alpine White - 35% Tint|6000K HIDs|Elemental Designs NINe.1|12" Alpine Type-Rs|Eclipse 5500|Optima Yellow Top|Megan Racing Header|Custom OEM Grill|Custom 4 AWG Grounding Kit|05' Red Tails
mrbrace is offline  
#10 Old 04-26-2009, 01:25 PM
Prov 24:5
 
mrbrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Okay, I am almost done with this replacement.

First, my sensor head is backwards and the clip has to go on the other way...which is good in a sense because it clears a path to put the bolt back on without the clip being in the way.

Second, I cannot for the life of me get the sensor to clip back into the harness. It wants to go and I have pushed it together til my hands are absolutely raw and it will not clip back on. Is there a secret way or a different way I can try? I have tried pinching the clip and sliding it back on as well.

Thanks

02' Altima 2.5L Alpine White - 35% Tint|6000K HIDs|Elemental Designs NINe.1|12" Alpine Type-Rs|Eclipse 5500|Optima Yellow Top|Megan Racing Header|Custom OEM Grill|Custom 4 AWG Grounding Kit|05' Red Tails
mrbrace is offline  
#11 Old 04-26-2009, 10:23 PM
Prov 24:5
 
mrbrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Nevermind, I bought an Irwin Quick Grip from Lowes and got it put together real fast and without crushing it.

Question now is, I have tried to clear my check engine light twice and it clears it but then when I start my car it comes back on after about 5 seconds of the car starting. I wonder if its because its a new style sensor or something to that effect??? Hmmm...

I do notice however while driving it that it shifts easier and the RPMs are much smoother than before. I am pretty sure its working just fine and I was very carful not to bend the pins inside the sensor that connects to the harness.

Maybe the dealer or my mechanic can clear the code or keep it from coming up???

02' Altima 2.5L Alpine White - 35% Tint|6000K HIDs|Elemental Designs NINe.1|12" Alpine Type-Rs|Eclipse 5500|Optima Yellow Top|Megan Racing Header|Custom OEM Grill|Custom 4 AWG Grounding Kit|05' Red Tails
mrbrace is offline  
#12 Old 04-27-2009, 08:47 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 1 Post
iTrader: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
mr brace...

go to Advance auto or Autozone they have a scan tool which they will clear the old code out of your car... for free...
muleman is offline  
#13 Old 04-27-2009, 01:25 PM
Prov 24:5
 
mrbrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Hey thanks for the advice but I did the ECU reset on technosquares website and it made it go away.... yeah!

02' Altima 2.5L Alpine White - 35% Tint|6000K HIDs|Elemental Designs NINe.1|12" Alpine Type-Rs|Eclipse 5500|Optima Yellow Top|Megan Racing Header|Custom OEM Grill|Custom 4 AWG Grounding Kit|05' Red Tails
mrbrace is offline  
#14 Old 04-28-2009, 01:37 AM
F.U. Motorsports
 
Altismo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
NOTE: make sure when you buy a new cam or crank position sensor, you buy it from the dealer. There is a strong possibility that an aftermarket sensor you buy could be and older version of the sensor that hasnt been revised yet due to the OEMs not letting third party vendors see the original designs for parts. My new sensor that I just changed a few months ago looks exactly like the new sensor, but it does NOT work properly forcing me to go to the dealership today to pick up another one and swap it out yet again. its not too much more from the dealer, and in most cases will probably be cheaper than a parts store anyway. Just a little bit of advice.


OP if you're out there, could you edit your first post to include this? it's a good piece of information to give to everyone else to save them from the same headache I had.

Good pics by the way,... this thing is in such an anal spot, I swear.....
Altismo is offline  
#15 Old 04-28-2009, 12:04 PM
Prov 24:5
 
mrbrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Altismo View Post
NOTE: make sure when you buy a new cam or crank position sensor, you buy it from the dealer. There is a strong possibility that an aftermarket sensor you buy could be and older version of the sensor that hasnt been revised yet due to the OEMs not letting third party vendors see the original designs for parts. My new sensor that I just changed a few months ago looks exactly like the new sensor, but it does NOT work properly forcing me to go to the dealership today to pick up another one and swap it out yet again. its not too much more from the dealer, and in most cases will probably be cheaper than a parts store anyway. Just a little bit of advice.


OP if you're out there, could you edit your first post to include this? it's a good piece of information to give to everyone else to save them from the same headache I had.

Good pics by the way,... this thing is in such an anal spot, I swear.....
I'm gonna have to sorta disagree with you there...you see, if you have the right part number you should be just fine going to a part store and ordering it. I did just that, and mine is completely fine, sure it was different than the old part but it works right? Absolutely. If going to the dealer makes one feel more 'safe' in knowing they got the right part...more power to you. I however, like to save a few bux.

02' Altima 2.5L Alpine White - 35% Tint|6000K HIDs|Elemental Designs NINe.1|12" Alpine Type-Rs|Eclipse 5500|Optima Yellow Top|Megan Racing Header|Custom OEM Grill|Custom 4 AWG Grounding Kit|05' Red Tails
mrbrace is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

  Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum > Nissanclub.com Nissan - Infiniti Enthusiast Forums > NISSAN ALTIMA FORUMS > 2002-2006 Nissan Altima Forums > F.A.Q 2002-2006

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


<

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome