Running the Power Cable from the battery terminal to the trunk
1. First, attach the power cable to the battery and then route it through the firewall. The power cable should have a fuse holder attached to it within six inches from the battery, although some power cables may contain in-house fuse holders. However, wait to place the fuse into the fuse holder until the whole installation is complete.

2. To route the power cable through the firewall, the air box must be removed. This can be done by unclipping the top lid and then removing a Phillips screw to disconnect the bottom portion. Then simply push it out of the way. Now route the wire to the driver’s side and there is a gourmet located behind the wheel fender. I myself was to afraid to cut a hole in the gourmet (because I didn’t want to cut any other wires) so I went on the outside of it. Then simply pull the power cable in using a wire hanger.

Heres the rubber gourmet

3. After getting the wire in through the firewall, pry off both sides kick panels, front and back, using a flathead screwdriver. Then route the power cable down the driver’s side under the kick panels and into the trunk. To prevent interference from occurring, route the signal cable and RCA cables, previously routed down into the passenger’s side foot well, under the passenger’s side kick panels into the trunk. Finally, re-install the kick panels over the routed wires. Now the wires are all ready for the amplifier and subwoofers.

All the wires coming into the trunk

 

4. Connect the power cable/signal cable/RCA cables to the amplifier, and ground the amplifier with a bolt to the frame of the car.

5. Run the speaker wires from the amplifier to the subwoofers, and you have a new bumpin’ system!

Finished Product: Subwoofers (I later decided to place the amplifier under the trunk carpet in between the spare tire to conserve space

That’s the best I can do in the time I had. I still hopes it makes it a bit easier for anyone looking to replace their factory stereo in the future.

BTW: (off topic)-- but I spent over 5 hrs painting my calipers red yesterday, using only a hand jack..and wanted to show off how they look:

 

Very detailed and helpful write up!

I'll add a few hints from my own 2007 Altima :

1. The OP stated it, and I'll re-emphasize: The very first step to this install is removing the negative battery cable. It is important.

2. When running your amp wire through the firewall, also pull an additional power and ground wire to connect your new deck directly to the battery. Almost all white noise in a stereo system is related to the deck and amp grounding points. It's a simple step, but it can go a long way in keeping engine noise at bay (especially if you are running a 4 channel amp for your mids and highs).

3. When grounding your amplifier, be sure to scrape all of the paint off of the grounding point. Your best bets are items that bolt to the chassis of the car. I used the rear seat belt bolts, and simply used a flathead screwdriver and wire brush to remove the paint. To get to the seat belts, you just need to remove the butt portion of the rear seat. Its tremendously easy. See the two pull rings sticking out on the front of the seat pad? Pull on the ring and pull up on each side. Now remove the seat.

4. During installation remove the faceplate from your stereo if possible. Frequently put it back on to ensure clearance, but with all the metal tools floating about, you could be asking for trouble.

5. If you don't have automatic climate controls, purchase the factory 2-din dash kit. It gives your new deck a completely factory look.

From member Sethman408:

Order it here: Nissan Parts 2 U It is part #15.

Then order this deck pocket: Universal DIN Pocket at Crutchfield.com

The OP did a great job on his install, and it turned out great, but the factory panel is like the tire shine on a freshly waxed car. It just sets it off.

For installation using the factory dash kit, you'll reinstall the climate controls and metal piece from step 6 (held on with torx screws) onto the new dash kit. You'll then screw the deck and pocket directly to the original metal piece.

From a security standpoint, the factory dash kit is far superior to the other aftermarket options that utilize the metal cage that comes with the new stereo. It takes a thief about 10 seconds to rip a deck out of the cage using some flat head screwdrivers; say adios to your stereo. A thief will steal your deck with or without a faceplate ( I have two faceplates without stereos as proof ). With the factory kit, a thief will have to remove your AC vents and lower pocket panel to expose the 4 screws shown in steps 2 and 3 of OP. This takes additional time, and that is a deterent to thieves.


BONUS Security tip: When reinstalling the factory dash kit once you've bolted on the Climate controls and new deck, go to the store and get new screws for the four screws shown in steps 2 and 3 of OP. I use screws with square inserts (commonly used in home electrical). Once I've installed the screws, I use a drill bit or allen head to strip out the head. To remove the screw you have to use pliers and it takes a while, but a thief will not bother with it.

BONUS Security tip 2x: Use these same screws for installing your amplifier. I mounted mine to the back of the passenger seat. Don't forget to strip them out.

BONUS Security tip 3x: If you place your subs against the back passenger wall like the OP did, you can actually chain them to the rear speaker deck. You don't need a monster sized chain, this is simply a deterrent. Remove the subs from the box and install an eyelet that bolts from the inside of the box. Now run a chain through the eyelet and through a few holes on the rear speaker deck. Be sure to wrap the chain in electrical tape / duct tape to eliminate rattling. Use a combination padlock to lock the chain; put the combination in your cell phone. If you use a keyed padlock, you risk losing the key; not good.


A thief will steal your stuff if they really want it. You can't stop them. These steps will certainly help to deter them though.

6. Depending on how detailed your install has been (deck, noise deadening, door speakers, remove seats, remove door panels), you might find your auto up function does not work on the driver window, and the air bag light stays on in the dashboard. Easy fixes:

Window: Roll both front windows down halfway. Now roll them up and hold the up buttons for an additional 5-10 seconds.

Air Bag Light: Turn your car off. With your foot off of the brake, turn the car to the "on" position. In the instrument cluster the airbag light will blink, as soon as it stops blinking (but before it turns on solid a moment later) turn the car off. Wait a few seconds and repeat this step 3 times.

 

Excellent write up! When I installed my headunit I just kinda screwed around until I got it out. I did use the factory 2 DIN plate though, I'll see if I can get pictures.

 

Audio noob question:

I have an '07 without navigation, bose, and with manual climate control. Are my aftermarket audio options limited to:

1) CD player with rectangular storage below ($100-$500)
2) Navigation unit w/ LCD screen that fills the entire area ($800-$1200)

That's it right? Do they sell aftermarket CD players that have an LCD screen that will fill the entire area without forking out $1000, or does LCD screen = navigation and all that other BS = $1000+-

Basically, I just want a better CD player without that storage space below it.

 

You have many options in that pice range. Just go onto a site like crutchfield.com, put in your year/make/model, and they'll list all of your options for you. I've seen many screens below $500

 

I was gonna say the same thing about getting the OEM dash kit... well worth the money...

Not the best picture.... but here's mine...

 

Avic



That looks like an AVIC D3 so did you have to do any trimming to get it to look that good? I purchased the new AVIC F900BT which is about the same size as yours and I'm hoping that the OEM dash kit will fit mine that well.

 

Very true. OEM dash kit is worth the money. At first I had the one in that crutchfield had provided, but I didn't like the shiny look, so I decided to replace it today. I used the factory brackets off of my factory stereo, screwed the alpine stereo directly to the brackets (perfect fit) and went down to best buy to buy a universal pocket for $20, since the one from the old kit did not fit. It also fit screwed right onto the factory brackets. Overall great look

Before

After

 

OP: Great write-up, nice job using pictures

for clarification when ordering the factory OEM dask kit, do I order "with navi" or the one "without navi"

also, whats the doo-dad sticking out on the OEM kit to the upper left? a mic?

 

haha... yeah... OEM looks awesome... I'm pretty sure I ordered the one without nav... and its the double din one... check the FAQ section to be sure.... I think the dash kit costs about 30 bucks?

and no, I did not have to do any cutting or putting any additional plastic to get it to look like that... there is a gap... but its not that bad...

and yes, that is the Avic D3...

more pictures and stuff here.... 4th Gen Altima - Avic D3 Install - SUPERNISSANS.NET Nissan Owners Community

 

Oem


Thanks for the link to your install, it was saved in my favorites. Where did you order this dash kit? I'd really like to get one for my Altima Coupe because my Metra kit kind of sucks. It just isn't a good match, texture wise anyway.

 

Hey how do you post pics?

 

before..
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn346/4thgencowboy/10.jpg
After..
http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn346/4thgencowboy/pics047.jpg

 

Nice explanation but could you mention something about the signal cable (remote turn on wire). Im wanting to add a sub to my factory unit. Im cool with everything but where and how to do the remote turn on wire to the amp. Any help, especially with pictures would be awesome. Thanks.

 

You can crimp the signal cable to the wiring harness, according to the wiring diagram you will get with the harness, which tells you what each wire is for, and then you can run it back to your trunk along with your RCA cables where your amplifier is. I ran mine down the passengers side, while my power cable ran down the drivers side to prevent interference.

 

posting my question again; when ordering the OEM dash kit (to get the double din size) do I order the Dash kit with navigation or without navigation?

 

It all depends on your AC controls. If you have Climate Control, you order for navi (although the opening is slightly wider than a standard double din and you have to fill in the gaps). If you don't have climate control but the regular AC controls, then buy the non-Navi Kit. It has a correct size double din opening for any single or double din head unit.

~SB

 

Sorry I've been (mia) it is a moded metra kit.

 

Great installation! Where you ordered this kit?

 

From me.

 

Thank's I can build you one.

 

wow - how did you build that? You could have a whole market if you could make a one-piece double-din faceplate for the cars with the auto temperature controls. I'd pay $40 for that, easy.

 

Great info.

Added to the FAQ Forum.