What are you going to do about the EGR system? Are you going for an egr delete?
Not to thread-jack or be a post-whore but funny you ask...
We're having a heavy debate on a DSM forum (dsmtalk.com) on the pros and cons of the egr delete. I'm actually doing a full emissions removal on my eclipse this weekend--plugging up all lines and the egr valve. Many people have done it without any ill effects yet some seem to believe it's not a great idea. All I know is, all those vacuum lines are cluttering up the engine bay and I don't like the idea of putting burnt fuel/air back into the combustion chamber.
its not supposed to be "burnt" air though - the point is it is supposed to be unburnt gasses being burned the 2nd time thru. i ran no egr on my v8 and it was tons less problems on my truck. my turbo altima has the egr deleted as well. runs smooth as a top. stinks though since theres no egr or cat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
asleep is a stream of off-color and low-cooth jokes in person as well. I've been recycling jokes I heard from him for years. He is known by my friends as "the sick fuck."
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Originally Posted by trmn8r
seems like you just killed someone with your Daewoo Lanos Asleep. lol
What are you going to do about the EGR system? Are you going for an egr delete?
I know I need this car for the streets, so the EGR system MUST be in place to pass emissions. The EGR is there to hold down NOx emissions. But if I can pass emissions without it being connected then I'll leave it deleted or disabled, since I'm within emissions limit.
So I am going to do some 15mph/25mph emissions tests, before I receive that official state emissions notification, and see what can be done to get this car street ready. I'm kind of interested in knowing this myself. Will keep you all posted when I get to that bridge.
Walbro Part #: GSS341 fuel pump with 400-805 install kit
I had pictures of the Walbro fuel pump install sitting around and thought I'd shared this since it was an upgrade for my turbo build.
If you research and look at other peoples' turbo build, the Walbro fuel pump has set the standard for fuel delivery. Its a hard beat on quality, price, and performance.
I bought my Walbro high pressure fuel pump from extremepsi.com. I had actually completed this install while I was running NA (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/gen...-pump-doa.html) Yes, you can do this install without being turbo'd. It won't affect anything performance-wise. Remember to check that the static fuel pressure is at 34 psi, with FPR vacuum hose connected, and 43 psi with FPR vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. The only issue I had twice was when the engine had not been started for a long time. If you sense a strong raw fuel odor from inside the cabin, after starting the engine, then it is likely because a small fuel leak had develop in the fuel filter to fuel rail hose. You'll see the hose wet at the ends. You just have to retighten those clamps down some and that should fix that problem.
You can unhook the two TERMINAK connectors off the battery and that will kill power to the entire car. The only active feed will be the one running to the starter. And since you won't be working there then you will be fine power-wise.
Pull the entire back seat out to get to the fuel pump access plate.
Remove the tab to release the fuel pump.
Get your parts lined up in a clean surface and following the instructions.
This is VERY important and my personal recommendation. You should solder the connections and use heat shrink to protect from a short circuit. Don't use the connectors in the kit for wiring. You do not want the wires to work loose when you are turbo'd. Bad things are known to happen. Make extremely sure that the red wire is soldered to the black/red wire.
You might have to reuse some things from your old fuel pump so don't toss it out just yet.
Hit a little snag here with this turbo. I was planning on removing the turbine housing so that I can rotate the center housing and get the oil outlet pointing at 6:00 o'clock. Thats the recommended position for oil return since it relies on gravity. But this stupid housing wouldn't budge no matter how much PB, torch, or rubber mallet I through at it. It wants to stay at the current locked position. Only the compressor housing can be moved freely. Thank God.
The oil outlet in the center housing is sitting at about a 135° position, since I couldn't clock this thing. I know that oil will still flow down this port, but was wondering if I should be overly concerned about all this.
Here are some pictures,
My main concerns are, not getting adequate oiling to the center assembly, poor oil return that could lead to coking, and oil backing up and affecting the oil seals.
You shouldn't have any worries with the way that it is setup. Yes, your oil feed is gravity and it will go through the seal section via gravity but also by the pull of the turbines when rotating...
You shouldn't have any worries with the way that it is setup. Yes, your oil feed is gravity and it will go through the seal section via gravity but also by the pull of the turbines when rotating...
What kind of turbo is that?
This is the information I got from Autospeed, circa Aug 16, 2004 ,
Quote:
Nissan/Garrett RB25DET (T3 style)
The Garrett T3-based turbocharger from Nissan’s RB25DET engine is one of the biggest OE Japanese turbos you can buy. They’re also relatively easy to find because they’re factory fitment to the ever-popular R33 Skyline GTS25T.
One of the biggest attractions of this turbo is its sophisticated design – it uses a water-cooled core with a roller bearing, ceramic turbine and lightweight compressor. These factors contribute to a very fast spool-up time.
In standard form, the RB25DET engine generates 187kW (250hp) and we have seen the standard turbo pushed to around 250kW (335 hp) in some applications. At this output, however, the ceramic turbine is likely to fail – especially when held at high load for extended durations.
The RB25DET turbocharger employs a 60mm compressor inlet and a 38mm discharge nozzle. The compressor housing is identified with a 0.40 A/R. On the exhaust side, the turbine inlet passage is 65 x 45mm and the mounting flange measures 110 x 70mm. The turbo connects to the exhaust manifold with 4 bolts and the dump pipe is attached by 6 bolts.
This is a great turbo for any engine making less than 250kW (335hp).
Here are a few additional pictures that I pulled from somewhere else,
That sounds like a very efficient system,of course, it should be since the turbo is from an oem/jdm application. Did you check the turbo for any play in the shaft? Since it is a used turbo and you are having issues clocking it, I suggest you take it apart, separating both the turbine and compressor housing from the core. This way you will get an ideas as to whether or not the turbine and compressor fins are damaged, and also how the previous car ran *lean or rich* by the pigmentation on the turbine fines.
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