My Turbo Install - jserrano

[jserrano]

Intercooler Pipe Plumbing

I think some of you run the hot intercooler piping underneath the radiator support. But after analyzing this further, it concerned me, particularly if I were to hit a curb or a speed bump. So I decided to make a hole for the hot side of the intercooler piping in the radiator support.

I first picked up a 2.75 inch hole saw from Home Depot. Taped off the area with clear packing taping and marked off the center hole so that I can guide the drill bit.



You have to go through two sections of sheet metal so be sure you are on center when cutting. The last step is to deburr those sharp edges. Here is how it turned out,






For the cold side of the intercooler piping, I plan to run it underneath the driver side bumper stay and tap into the existing Hotshot CAI piping. The N62 MAF will replace my existing MAF (yes, its going to be a blow-through MAF setup). The BOV will be placed somewhere before hitting the MAF - still haven't worked out the exact location. But I'll put up separate posts for those two items when I get to them.

[drunkmunky]

That's a good idea but when you have the piping routed out you will hit the a/c compressor. In order to get your 90 degree bend there, you will need to make a larger hole. It's going to be tight. I wrapped my intercooler piping around the radiator support. I cut a notch at the side where there is extra sheet metal coming down from the framerail so that I could tuck the intercooler piping up.




on a sidenote.. did you test the fuel pump with a battery before you installed it?

[jserrano]

Originally Posted by drunkmunky

snipped...
on a sidenote.. did you test the fuel pump with a battery before you installed it?

If you're asking whether I tested the bad fuel pump, yes, the resistance between the two fuel pump terminals was infinity, ie. open. For the new one, the resistance was low and ran the car for some time with the Walbro fuel pump installed.

As for the turbo shaft play it seems fine to me. Couldn't really detect any major fore-and-aft or sideways shaft play. But the moment of truth will come when that sucker is rev'ed up really high. I'm hoping for the best, am crossing my fingers, and praying.

[drunkmunky]

I hope you know what I mean by needing more space. That's the perfect hole if the IC piping was straight, know what I mean? I wish I took more pictures of my build but there were moments where I did all the building, and no documentation.

[jserrano]

I hear you Bro'. You know what really sucks though, that there are so many great people here who have gone through this entire process, but haven't really taken the time to put up some pictures or write-ups together. Maybe they were in a rush to finish. But it really sucks in a way. OTOH, at least there is more info for us that are coming in later in the game than there were for those who got started earlier. Must've been even worst for them. So I really can't bitch about it, in that sense.

But I'm enjoying it and learning a great deal in the process. And each step brings me that much closer. Just can't wait to be able to finally sit back and enjoy my "baby".

[jserrano]

Nissan Z32 MAF

This is the popular 80mm MAF used on many turbo builds. This MAF has a label with part# 22680-30P00 and a N62 printed on it. The N60 Maxima MAF is wired the same way as the Z32. You guys with a N60 MAF can follow along. I got mine Z32 MAF as part of the turbo kit but this MAF are very popular on e-Bay, or you can pick one up from,

Nissan 2268030P00 300ZX Z32 Mass Airflow Sensor MAF

I plan on doing a MAF blow-though setup and also keeping my 3" HotShot piping in place. So all I really need to do is remove my current stock MAF and replace it with this one. Well actually I have to do a few things first.

First off, there are really three different ways to wire in this MAF.

1. Cut the old stock wires and solder this one in place.
2. Cut a small section of the stock wiring and solder into it.
3. Build a MAF wiring adapter and simply plug it in.

I opted to go with #3 and created a MAF wiring adapter. Something different for a change. But #1 and #2 would've been much easier and possibly the best option for most people. But before I get into the details, I had to order a MAF adapter from eBay Store, Import Storage,

I reused the stock MAF o-ring from my old MAF and placed it into the z32 MAF.



Then I placed the MAF adapter and used a 3/16" allen wrench to locked down the 4 hex screws.





This MAF adapter has a 3" ID to match the z32 MAF and the piping. It also has a big 4" for OD. I had to order a 4" to 3" silicone reducer from Stratton Electronics to couple it to the 3" piping. I couldn't locating a simple 4" clamp from any of the local auto parts stores, wow?! So I searched the plumbing section of Home Depot and found out that they carried just about any size hose clamps you can wish for.

eBay Motors: NEW UNIVERSAL SILICONE REDUCER 3">4" / 76mm>102mm RED

Now on to the details of the MAF adapter. You first have to identify the color wiring on the MAF. If you pull back the MAF harness rubber boot you can clearly see what goes where. JWT makes mention of being cautious here since there could be some variations. http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf...%20NISSANS.PDF

In my MAF, the pin wiring goes like this,



...that is, read from left to right,

A=not used
B=White (0-5VDC signal wire) - this defines an Air Quantity (+) or QA+
C=Black (Engine Ground) - this defines an engine grounding point
D=Orange (signal ground) - this defines an Air Quantity (-) or QA-
E=Black/White (+12V source) - this defines the +12V from the ECU relay.
F=not used

Here is the opposite end. Noticed how the signal wires QA+ and QA- are shielded from electrical interference.



I pulled a harness plug off an old beat up stock MAF and wired it like this,



Reading these pins from left to right in this picture,

A=White (0-5VDC signal wire) - this connects to the SMALL orange wire from the stock wiring.
B=Orange (signal ground) - this connects to the white wire from the stock wiring.
C=Black/White (+12V source) - this connects to the BIG orange wire from the stock wiring.
D=Black (Engine Ground) - this has been added in and will connect up to the engine ground. (I still need to run the external wiring)

I wrapped this plug with a rubber boot I had available.



And this is how the MAF wiring adapter turned out,



Update 11/11/08: Extra ground wire

I added an engine ground wire for the maf adapter harness. I blacked out the grey/red wire with a black marker. Soldered another same gauge black wire to it and heat shrink wrapped it. Then locked a round terminal to the end and grounded it to the intake manifold.



Here is a reference for the N60 folks,

www.ka-t.org :: View topic - N60 maf question

This is the final installation with the ignition power transistor and bracket hooked up. That completes this section.

[jserrano]

NISMO Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)

This adjustable FPR is part # 22070-RR580-US. This FPR is of Type A, meaning it bolts directly into the ruel rail. The install is extremely simple, you just unbolt the stock FPR and replace it with this one. Just remember to put a tab of petroleum jelly around the o-ring before sliding it in place. I will need to come back and set the static fuel pressure on this FPR as one of the very first steps required before doing any drive runs.





Update 10/10/08

I ran into a small problem while installing the fuel rail. The FPR vacuum port is a little too long and will touch the cylinder head. So there is no way you can put the vacuum hose back on. I had to cut a small section from the metal off the vacuum port in order for it to fit with the vacuum hose attached. You'll also need to get a longer vacuum hose and fuel return hose since the old hoses will not reach.





Next section will be to install the S15 480cc fuel injectors and connect this fuel rail up to the engine.

[WarMachine]

Hey jserrano, what fuel pressure gauge are you gonna be using? Using an in-line one? I was thinking of getting this one..

JEGS 41012 - JEGS Fuel Pressure Gauges - JEGS

and using the in-line fitting like this..

JEGS 15271 - JEGS Fuel Pressure Gauge Neoprene Hose Fittings - JEGS

or..

JEGS 15270 - JEGS Fuel Pressure Gauge Neoprene Hose Fittings - JEGS

What do you think?

[jserrano]

You're talking about putting a fuel pressure gauge under the hood, right? Well I actually haven't settled on a professional one yet. I use a simple one that I built a long ago which serves the purpose. Typically, you would just set the static pressure once and forget about it. The only other times that I can think of where you would need to readjust it is, if you made other fuel system changes, or if you need to fine tune the fuel pressure so that you get the optimum wideband O2 readings, for your setup.

I'm currently thinking of possibly using three dual-purpose gauges for the cabin, if I can locate them; vacuum/boost (obviously), oil temp/pressure, and wideband O2/Exhaust temp. Haven't actually settled on anything, as of yet. But those JEGs should be fine for engine bay installed, fuel pressure reading.

[drunkmunky]

Boost Pressure, Oil Temperature, Oil Pressure, and PLX M300 wideband.

Vacuum gauge as well as fuel pressure gauge are both under the hood. Get a B&M gauge. It's less than 15 dollars and it is rather accurate.

[WarMachine]

drunkmunky, where'd you get your fuel pressure gauge from? All the B&M one's I found were like 29 bucks.

[jserrano]

S15 480cc fuel injectors

These fuel injectors are of a brown color. The injectors are stamped with a code A46-F52 along the top.



You can purchase these from Courtesyparts.com

The part numbers for the Nissan OEM seals are,

- Top injector cap insulator #16636-53J00
- Top injector o-ring #16618-10V05
- Bottom injector o-ring #16618-53J00
- Bottom fuel rail insulator #16636-72P00

I actually bought the seals from Doctor Injector for about $20. But it only came with the injector o-rings, NOT the insulators.

Here is the instructions for installing these bad boys.



1. It is first advisable to remove the fuel rail off the engine. Its much easier to work with. I had an additional fuel rail available so I worked with that instead. (Excuse the low quality photos. Poor lighting and cell phone camera don't pair good.)



2. Remove the two screws from the injector cap.



3. The injectors are most likely going to be stuck on the fuel rail. Spray some WD-40 on the top and the bottom o-rings. Twist the injectors completely around until you get them to move easily in the fuel rail. That is when you know you will be able to pop them loose from the fuel rail.



4. The easiest way to pop the injectors out is to position the harness connector right over one of the screw holes, as shown in the picture. This will give your screwdriver enough leverage to spring the injector up. You might also want to put something soft on the screwdriver tip is you don't want to scratch anything. Its no biggie though.



5. Next insert the top and bottom o-rings.



6. Put some petroleum jelly around the o-rings and clean the inside of the fuel rail.



7. Align the injectors correctly and replace the top insulator. Lock down the cap.



8. Finally, install the fuel rail in the engine and verify that the fuel injectors are not leaking any fuel when you prime the fuel pump.



As a final note, I've seen the flow rate for the S15 injector listed differently. And the JWT ECU is also tuned for 444cc, which is one of the flow rates mentioned around. The difference could very well be coming from the static fuel pressure used to run these injectors. If this is the case, I will have to check the wideband O2 AFR at warm idle and fine tune the FPR in order to get it near the tuned level of the ECU. This is something I am not entirely certain of so will keep you all posted on this in the future.

[Asleep]

how much boost you plan on running?

[jserrano]

Originally Posted by Asleep

how much boost you plan on running?

I am only going for the typical stock level boost, 7 psi. The wastegate actuator I have is actually set for that. I'll only think higher when I have all of the kinks worked out of the system. But I don't think I'll be chasing anything over 250 whp anytime soon though. I'm just not as bold as many of you might think.

[drunkmunky]

Originally Posted by WarMachine

drunkmunky, where'd you get your fuel pressure gauge from? All the B&M one's I found were like 29 bucks.

That's odd. I got mine from my local parts store. it's a little one that you hook up to your fuel lines inside the engine bay. I'm in canada though.. the price difference shouldn't be that different. It was dirt cheap.