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My Turbo Install - jserrano

101K views 234 replies 43 participants last post by  niceguy 
#1 · (Edited)
Well guys, my time has come to join the ka-t club and move forward with the turbo install. I am going to take the advantage of doing it now, since the Altima will be out of commission for some time while doing the repair work, plus, everything is in full plain view to do this work now (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ge...93-2001/274496-narrowing-down-my-choices.html).

Going with tradition, I've created this thread to document the progress. The custom turbo kit setup is the one I purchased from ftnaltima
(http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/fo...-technical-only/268611-selling-turbo-kit.html).

Here are a few pictures on the bottom mount 'fit test'. With my untrained eyes this seems good to me so far. But need your comments on the things you feel needs to be addressed or taken special care of before plunging in too deep.

Front Views




Upper Right View


Left Views




Downpipe


Again, these are just some test fittings to see where I'll need to do some additional work.

On a separate note, I was planning on doing some work (and write-up) on the N/A ECU tuning side. Unfortunately, I was dealt a different fate - sorry folks but someone else is going to have to step up to the plate on that one. You'll get my unconditional support, if needed.

I welcome all your help. And you know my payment will be a thousand-fold to everyone that helps me along the way. Thanks. -js
 
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#4 ·
Sweet and what part of VA do you live in?
 
#5 ·
I'm at the northern tip. Northern VA or NOVA, as they call it.

I'll likely post plenty of pictures and do some writeups like others have done with their projects. So y'all can see how this will evolve...and can catch my mistakes ahead of time. :)
 
#8 ·
God help us Jserrano has finally gone to boost. He's going to be like "hey guys I figured out how to cross these 4 wires, inject fuel straight into the turbo, and im making 783whp at 11psi." :D

What are the specs on that turbo anyway?
 
#10 · (Edited)
The compressor housing is a stock NISSAN and has a 45V2 stamped on it - appears to be off a Skyline RB25DET. The turbo specs should match that. Anyone with actual numbers please post them. I'll take some closeup pictures and measurements whenever I get another chance to do some more work.

This turbo has oil and water lines. I am still unclear on where to get the water feed and return from. I thinking of getting the water feed off the cold side of the radiator and to place the return on the hot side of the radiator. I will also need to pick up another actuator since the one on it is rigged up poorly and is also damaged.

If this is going to turn out to be like any of my other projects, I am pretty sure my write-ups are going to be in sections, with pictures, and with details on each component installed. The only things I will keep out off this thread are the ongoing body work because I already have a running thread elsewhere to describe that work.

I don't have any type of instant messaging. Just send me a PM or an email and I'll try to get back to you... Thanks for all your support!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Well since the fitment looked good I am officially starting the actual turbo install process. Here are a two things I've done so far.

Turbo Oil Feed

My turbo oil feed line kit looks similar to the one from JGS Precision Turbo. The ss line is about 4' long. The install is quite easy.







There are still some action items to do here. I'm writing this down for future reference.

1. There was a jet screw in this kit which I didn't connect at this time. I have to come back and do an oil pressure test on the turbo oil inlet to see if it is going to need it or a different sized one.

2. Plan to replace the oil pressure switch with an oil pressure gauge. Ace and others have done this and it is definitely more valueable to have than a simple pressure switch.


Turbo Manifold

This turbo manifold is of the tubular design type which accomodates a bottom mount turbo quite well. I ordered and installed a Cometic multi-layered manifold gasket from FRSport.com for it. Cometic MLS Multi Layer Steel Exhaust Manifold Gasket KA24DE

It just needs some heat wrap but that won't come 'til the later stages of this entire install. Everything here went very smooth. Nothing spectacular to write about...just a few pictures.







 
#13 · (Edited)
Nice setup, you can use the lines that go into the throttle body for the water feed on the turbo.
 
#14 ·
That is exactly was I had in mind...at first. Taking the water feed off of the throttle body->turbo water inlet->turbo water outlet->back over to throttle body pipe connecting to the thermostat housing.

But now I think I'm onto something which appears to be much better. Since my new radiator comes with a transmission oil cooler. Here is what I am thinking,

T off the water feed from the throttle body->tranny oil cooler inlet->tranny oil cooler outlet->turbo water inlet->turbo water outlet->water pump pipe drain plug. :brow: That should keep the turbo running much cooler. But, by how many degrees? :confused: At this point, I don't exactly know how adequate enough the tranny cooler is going to be. But this is something I am willing to try.

Any thoughts?
 
#17 ·
Not to thread-jack or be a post-whore but funny you ask...

We're having a heavy debate on a DSM forum (dsmtalk.com) on the pros and cons of the egr delete. I'm actually doing a full emissions removal on my eclipse this weekend--plugging up all lines and the egr valve. Many people have done it without any ill effects yet some seem to believe it's not a great idea. All I know is, all those vacuum lines are cluttering up the engine bay and I don't like the idea of putting burnt fuel/air back into the combustion chamber.
 
#18 ·
its not supposed to be "burnt" air though - the point is it is supposed to be unburnt gasses being burned the 2nd time thru. i ran no egr on my v8 and it was tons less problems on my truck. my turbo altima has the egr deleted as well. runs smooth as a top. stinks though since theres no egr or cat.
 
#20 ·
Wish it was like that in California, I'd fail as soon as they popped the hood and saw a turbo...
 
#21 · (Edited)
Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump HP

Walbro Part #: GSS341 fuel pump with 400-805 install kit

I had pictures of the Walbro fuel pump install sitting around and thought I'd shared this since it was an upgrade for my turbo build.

If you research and look at other peoples' turbo build, the Walbro fuel pump has set the standard for fuel delivery. Its a hard beat on quality, price, and performance.

I bought my Walbro high pressure fuel pump from extremepsi.com. I had actually completed this install while I was running NA (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ge...iscussion-1993-2001/261864-fuel-pump-doa.html) Yes, you can do this install without being turbo'd. It won't affect anything performance-wise. Remember to check that the static fuel pressure is at 34 psi, with FPR vacuum hose connected, and 43 psi with FPR vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. The only issue I had twice was when the engine had not been started for a long time. If you sense a strong raw fuel odor from inside the cabin, after starting the engine, then it is likely because a small fuel leak had develop in the fuel filter to fuel rail hose. You'll see the hose wet at the ends. You just have to retighten those clamps down some and that should fix that problem.

I used the following great FAQ to help me along the way while doing the install http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q-1993-2001/184313-walbro-fuel-pump-install-complete-w-pics.html. I'll just supplement that nice FAQ with a few notes of mine.

You can unhook the two TERMINAK connectors off the battery and that will kill power to the entire car. The only active feed will be the one running to the starter. And since you won't be working there then you will be fine power-wise.



Pull the entire back seat out to get to the fuel pump access plate.







Remove the tab to release the fuel pump.





Get your parts lined up in a clean surface and following the instructions.



This is VERY important and my personal recommendation. You should solder the connections and use heat shrink to protect from a short circuit. Don't use the connectors in the kit for wiring. You do not want the wires to work loose when you are turbo'd. Bad things are known to happen. Make extremely sure that the red wire is soldered to the black/red wire.



You might have to reuse some things from your old fuel pump so don't toss it out just yet.



And this is the final product.

 
#23 · (Edited)
Hit a little snag here with this turbo. I was planning on removing the turbine housing so that I can rotate the center housing and get the oil outlet pointing at 6:00 o'clock. Thats the recommended position for oil return since it relies on gravity. But this stupid housing wouldn't budge no matter how much PB, torch, or rubber mallet I through at it. It wants to stay at the current locked position. Only the compressor housing can be moved freely. Thank God.

The oil outlet in the center housing is sitting at about a 135° position, since I couldn't clock this thing. I know that oil will still flow down this port, but was wondering if I should be overly concerned about all this.

Here are some pictures,







My main concerns are, not getting adequate oiling to the center assembly, poor oil return that could lead to coking, and oil backing up and affecting the oil seals.

:sad:
 
#24 ·
You shouldn't have any worries with the way that it is setup. Yes, your oil feed is gravity and it will go through the seal section via gravity but also by the pull of the turbines when rotating...

What kind of turbo is that?
 
#25 · (Edited)
This is the information I got from Autospeed, circa Aug 16, 2004 ,

Nissan/Garrett RB25DET (T3 style)

The Garrett T3-based turbocharger from Nissan’s RB25DET engine is one of the biggest OE Japanese turbos you can buy. They’re also relatively easy to find because they’re factory fitment to the ever-popular R33 Skyline GTS25T.

One of the biggest attractions of this turbo is its sophisticated design – it uses a water-cooled core with a roller bearing, ceramic turbine and lightweight compressor. These factors contribute to a very fast spool-up time.

In standard form, the RB25DET engine generates 187kW (250hp) and we have seen the standard turbo pushed to around 250kW (335 hp) in some applications. At this output, however, the ceramic turbine is likely to fail – especially when held at high load for extended durations.

The RB25DET turbocharger employs a 60mm compressor inlet and a 38mm discharge nozzle. The compressor housing is identified with a 0.40 A/R. On the exhaust side, the turbine inlet passage is 65 x 45mm and the mounting flange measures 110 x 70mm. The turbo connects to the exhaust manifold with 4 bolts and the dump pipe is attached by 6 bolts.

This is a great turbo for any engine making less than 250kW (335hp).
Here are a few additional pictures that I pulled from somewhere else,





 
#26 ·
Where did you get the turbo from?
 
#28 ·
That sounds like a very efficient system,of course, it should be since the turbo is from an oem/jdm application. Did you check the turbo for any play in the shaft? Since it is a used turbo and you are having issues clocking it, I suggest you take it apart, separating both the turbine and compressor housing from the core. This way you will get an ideas as to whether or not the turbine and compressor fins are damaged, and also how the previous car ran *lean or rich* by the pigmentation on the turbine fines.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Intercooler Pipe Plumbing

I think some of you run the hot intercooler piping underneath the radiator support. But after analyzing this further, it concerned me, particularly if I were to hit a curb or a speed bump. So I decided to make a hole for the hot side of the intercooler piping in the radiator support.

I first picked up a 2.75 inch hole saw from Home Depot. Taped off the area with clear packing taping and marked off the center hole so that I can guide the drill bit.



You have to go through two sections of sheet metal so be sure you are on center when cutting. The last step is to deburr those sharp edges. Here is how it turned out,





For the cold side of the intercooler piping, I plan to run it underneath the driver side bumper stay and tap into the existing Hotshot CAI piping. The N62 MAF will replace my existing MAF (yes, its going to be a blow-through MAF setup). The BOV will be placed somewhere before hitting the MAF - still haven't worked out the exact location. But I'll put up separate posts for those two items when I get to them.
 
#32 ·
That's a good idea but when you have the piping routed out you will hit the a/c compressor. In order to get your 90 degree bend there, you will need to make a larger hole. It's going to be tight. I wrapped my intercooler piping around the radiator support. I cut a notch at the side where there is extra sheet metal coming down from the framerail so that I could tuck the intercooler piping up.




on a sidenote.. did you test the fuel pump with a battery before you installed it?
 
#33 ·
snipped...
on a sidenote.. did you test the fuel pump with a battery before you installed it?
If you're asking whether I tested the bad fuel pump, yes, the resistance between the two fuel pump terminals was infinity, ie. open. For the new one, the resistance was low and ran the car for some time with the Walbro fuel pump installed.

As for the turbo shaft play it seems fine to me. Couldn't really detect any major fore-and-aft or sideways shaft play. But the moment of truth will come when that sucker is rev'ed up really high. I'm hoping for the best, am crossing my fingers, and praying.
 
#34 ·
I hope you know what I mean by needing more space. That's the perfect hole if the IC piping was straight, know what I mean? I wish I took more pictures of my build but there were moments where I did all the building, and no documentation.
 
#35 ·
I hear you Bro'. You know what really sucks though, that there are so many great people here who have gone through this entire process, but haven't really taken the time to put up some pictures or write-ups together. Maybe they were in a rush to finish. But it really sucks in a way. OTOH, at least there is more info for us that are coming in later in the game than there were for those who got started earlier. Must've been even worst for them. So I really can't bitch about it, in that sense.

But I'm enjoying it and learning a great deal in the process. And each step brings me that much closer. Just can't wait to be able to finally sit back and enjoy my "baby". :love:
 
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