umm, gee, if there's a code for front O2 sensor, you think maybe you want to replace that one! geesh : P >:-(
it's 15 bucks or so to get the universal bosch for the 1st gen. i suppose a second gen would have heated, but if u dont want it to be, i think u could still use universal. not sure though if it would cause any real annoyances.
i assure you that getting 80 miles on the 3/4 mark is normal. so is 120. that's the difference between mostly highway, going speed limit, and most city/highway going way above speedlimits (in general).
The car is back from the dealer and here goes the BULL$!$!.
The tech said I have a huge leak in the air intake and that its what's causing my idle to sit at 1075rpm in park or nuetral after the car has been running. He also said he will need to reprogram the ECM OR ECU can't remember exactly. This was all told to me over the phone. When I asked the service manager if this would solve the problem he said maybe. They would have to repair that then go from there. I proceded to the dealer in a pissed off rage cause they want $600 rounded off to do the repair. I then asked the tech to tell me the BS again in person and he changed the story. He told me that is the problem and that the car had no ECM ECU to reprogram. This was my problem and that he had to go. I told him if more air is getting in and more fuel is being pulsed in by the injectors then would'nt this cause a O2 sensor malfunction? He said HUH?(STUPID LOOK ON FACE HERE) after stumbling for words. At this point he felt the pain was about to be inflicted on him and I was loosing all my logical sense which says not to beat him like a BI!!!!$. At this point I began to remember that I am not civil and that I am from NYC and the attitiude change. Now it was time to get at the service manager. I pulled my Beni cap and look at the manager and told him "If you think I am going to pay you for this then you are out you FU(KING mind". He tried to get me to calm down but by then the whole service area had noticed them noise and I began to get deaper into my roots and start the HOLLARIN this is BS F N BS. Well after a few minutes of that and several other customers thinking they were going to get robbed (by the dealer not me YET) the manager told me he will not charge me the 1 hour for the diagnosis since no actual facts of the problem can be found in his service manual which he read like our President up side down. WOW! I am more relaxed now that I vented. Anyone care to comment.
I will continue to ride it like that till the engine implodes or explodes which I don't care for the BS theory.
umm, gee, if there's a code for front O2 sensor, you think maybe you want to replace that one! geesh : P >:-(
Hey, like I said, the rear o2 sensor was put back in it's modified location, and everything is kosher. Like I said, maybe Nissan's are fickle.
Quote:
it's 15 bucks or so to get the universal bosch for the 1st gen. i suppose a second gen would have heated, but if u dont want it to be, i think u could still use universal. not sure though if it would cause any real annoyances.
i assure you that getting 80 miles on the 3/4 mark is normal. so is 120. that's the difference between mostly highway, going speed limit, and most city/highway going way above speedlimits (in general).
My driving habit is very rigid. I don't do much street. Most of my miles are done on urban highway, trying to keep the speed close to 60mph. I rarely romp on the gas.
The car is back from the dealer and here goes the BULL$!$!.
The tech said I have a huge leak in the air intake and that its what's causing my idle to sit at 1075rpm in park or nuetral after the car has been running. He also said he will need to reprogram the ECM OR ECU can't remember exactly. This was all told to me over the phone. When I asked the service manager if this would solve the problem he said maybe. They would have to repair that then go from there. I proceded to the dealer in a pissed off rage cause they want $600 rounded off to do the repair. I then asked the tech to tell me the BS again in person and he changed the story. He told me that is the problem and that the car had no ECM ECU to reprogram. This was my problem and that he had to go. I told him if more air is getting in and more fuel is being pulsed in by the injectors then would'nt this cause a O2 sensor malfunction? He said HUH?(STUPID LOOK ON FACE HERE) after stumbling for words. At this point he felt the pain was about to be inflicted on him and I was loosing all my logical sense which says not to beat him like a BI!!!!$. At this point I began to remember that I am not civil and that I am from NYC and the attitiude change. Now it was time to get at the service manager. I pulled my Beni cap and look at the manager and told him "If you think I am going to pay you for this then you are out you FU(KING mind". He tried to get me to calm down but by then the whole service area had noticed them noise and I began to get deaper into my roots and start the HOLLARIN this is BS F N BS. Well after a few minutes of that and several other customers thinking they were going to get robbed (by the dealer not me YET) the manager told me he will not charge me the 1 hour for the diagnosis since no actual facts of the problem can be found in his service manual which he read like our President up side down. WOW! I am more relaxed now that I vented. Anyone care to comment.
I will continue to ride it like that till the engine implodes or explodes which I don't care for the BS theory.
Are you throwing any codes?
__________________ 2000 Nissan Altima
2008 Nissan Altima Coupe
urban highway? well anyway, urban means city, so im not going to try to get this one
if you want to know what's wrong with your car, you usually will listen and look at things and get the codes from computer. if code from computer says upstream 02 sensor (or precat, they 're known by more than one name), then you either: a) look at sensor, clean it, replace it, diagnose it (not usually worth doing on a 1 02 sensor car, but maybe on a corvette it's worth it since there are so many 02 sensors), and be done with it. if problem comes back, you may have another problem causing you 02 sensors to go bad. that's how this problem is usually dealt with.
guy who gets pissed off at dlrshp... what exactly were you there for? high idle? if u had high idle, caused my intake manifold leak, you could test for that by spraying carb cleaner in that area of engine/engine bay, and see what the engine does. usually, leaks in intake, i believe, would cause idle to go down (lean condition ==> less power). it could also go up , though. depends on the exact description of the leak. why would they want to reprogramm your ECU, if the problem was just an intake manifold leak? i'm not sure what exactly is going on, maybe you could sum it up real quick (the symptoms), and what their solutions were for them, individually.
guy who gets pissed off at dlrshp... what exactly were you there for? high idle? if u had high idle, caused my intake manifold leak, you could test for that by spraying carb cleaner in that area of engine/engine bay, and see what the engine does. usually, leaks in intake, i believe, would cause idle to go down (lean condition ==> less power). it could also go up , though. depends on the exact description of the leak. why would they want to reprogramm your ECU, if the problem was just an intake manifold leak? i'm not sure what exactly is going on, maybe you could sum it up real quick (the symptoms), and what their solutions were for them, individually.
l8er[/quote]
The car idles at 1075 when completlywarmed up or ran for more than 5 minutes on the road. That's not normal. That's what I took the car in for they gave the intake manifold story as a maybe solution.
urban highway? well anyway, urban means city, so im not going to try to get this one
It means it isn't street, but it isn't exactly being able to maintain a certain speed for long stretches at a time like on the interstate. One minute the traffic will be flowing at 50-60, the next it can slow down to 40-45, and then pick back up to 55. The exits are like anywhere between 1/2 mile to 1 mile apart (there are alot of exits on the LIE, BQE, GCP, Van Wyck, etc), so you get the cars that are coming on and going off slowing the pace down at certian areas. Plus on a good day, you are lucky if you can have 3 car lengths in fron of you and behind you when traffic is flowing at 60 mph. Then there are times when you're travelling on the left lane at 60, but then have to slow down to 45 cause some "granny" driver feels safer in the left, wait for the center lane to clear, then you are able to make a passing manuver from the center......
intake manifold leak could be a reason for the idle. find out if they tested it, perhaps the way i mentioned. also, find out if they just needed to lower it "that' all" type situation. sometimes things get out of whack or out of tune. maybe something other than intake leak caused increased idle speed. maybe the idle air control valve is whacky right now. let me know what you're doing to have it fixed, or what you are planning on doing ..
urban means city[period]
the situation you are describing I would call congestion on the highway.
I am not going to due anything. I am ging to leave it as is for now. I might I might just start changing parts to something helps. I am planning on buying a parts car soon.(maybe)
I changed the temp sensor but I have yet to really test it out. I drove all the way out to jersey yesterday and back but the weather conditions were herendous for proper testing.
O2 sensor
Does anyone know the best way to go about changing the 02 sensors? Like whether I should buy it online then install myself or at a shop if it's too hard? If so which website.
I know for a fact that I need the sensors replaced. I also know that my header bypasses the cat. convertor so I think this in all is causing my horrible gas mileage.
The o2 sensor you can replace with a 3/8 ratchet and a o2 removal tool from autozone they lend you it for a refundable fee of 10 or keep it and you owe nothing.
yeah true, autozone does that, i did it, it's 15 bucks. you dont 'need' to use an 02 sensor removal tool, though. it just makes the job easier. a wrnech would work
$15?? I remember a freakin mechanic quoted me close to $400 before, when I couldn't pass inspections and an 02 sensor code came up. You're saying that it's easy to do yourself? Or maybe I'm getting my sensors mixed up, weird.
front o2 sensor, the thing that you see in the middle of the exhaust manifold aluminum shield, in the front of your engine between your engine and the cooling fans.. well that sensor will have awire... clue you in ?
that front/upstream oxygen sensor costs 15 bucks. the tool to remove it, that you dont actually need, it 15 bucks as well, but you can return the tool (at autozone, it's called loaner). so 15 bucks total. it takes about 2 minutes to do the whole thing. it might take you 10.
the end.
edit --> in more reply to edactly what u said, its so easy, it's easier than changing the headlight bulb, oil change, putting gas in car, changing battery, or removing a wheel (e.g. a flat tire, putting spare on).
Last edited by Brian Passarelli : 02-22-2005 at 05:12 AM.
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