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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:22 AM
c'old man winter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,091
seat and your fuel economy are unrelated. I can assure you, you will not gain 4 miles per gallon PER one back seat (cushion), which only weights in at 25 lbs or so. I can show you the physics why, too, if you want.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:23 AM
c'old man winter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,091
oh, and you all should be getting 30 mpg (instantaneous ) (if you dont know what i meant by that, ignore it) on the highway, upwards to 36 mpg. assuming you are going 55 mph.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:27 AM
Brushedpewter's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Passarelli
seat and your fuel economy are unrelated. I can assure you, you will not gain 4 miles per gallon PER one back seat (cushion), which only weights in at 25 lbs or so. I can show you the physics why, too, if you want.
I removed the cushion, then the 2 upper parts and then the 2 side small ones.
You guys could BS all you want but I drive 65mph with the cruise control on.
I put the seats back like 2 weeks ago because i had give a couple of people a ride.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:34 AM
c'old man winter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,091
look, stop saying someting about 'bs'. this is not a personal attack. it's simply impossible, you just drove it easier (dont even start to say that you couldn't have). if you drive the car differently, other than when you drove 65mph with cruise control, say you floored it, even once, that changes it. lets say you went on a different highway going 65, that changes it. going uphil, only 10 degree gradient makes a big enouigh difference to rule out your hypothesis (in your case, proclaimation jesus ... hahaha).
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:47 AM
Brushedpewter's Avatar
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you know what I'm not even going to argue. What's the point, this is the internet, half the stuff said is BS anyway.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 06:22 AM
Official Troll
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Flushing, NY
Posts: 7,780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rejectbaby
ordering mine now. thanks for the info. i hope it works.
Like jserrano said... Make sure you're not ordering the other sensor (the one that operates the temp gauge on the dash)
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Flushing, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asleepaltima
i agree flare, the cts is often overlooked.....
Unless you read the boards day in and day out, yes I agree, no one would know to change this sensor out. Even with the Haynes manual and their troubleshooting list for fuel economy, there's no mention of the coolant temp sensor. The only hint the Haynes manual gives is if you actually read the part on the replacement of the coolant temp sensor. There's a small blurb telling you to handle the sensor with care cause damaging it could lead to a host of problems including fuel economy.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 06:47 AM
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Livin' the High Life
 
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Location: Tampa
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I drove to Fl from OH with 4 people in my car and I still averaged around 350 to a tank. There must be a hell of a lot of drugs stashed in those back seats.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 01:09 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Newport News, VA
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I wouldn't have even bothered to open a thread like this except from a few people...and I'm glad I did! On general principle I'm gonna change mine out and see just how much MPG I can squeeze out of my baby! Thanks flare!

(Did I miss the spot with the instructions?)
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 02:11 PM
SexyGXE's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,588
Locate the coolant temperature sending unit on the engine.

Disconnect the sending unit electrical harness.

Drain the engine coolant below the level of the switch.

Unfasten and remove the sending unit from the engine.

Coat the new sending unit with Teflon tape or electrically conductive sealer.

Install the sending unit and tighten to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).

Attach the sending unit’s electrical connector.

Fill the engine with coolant.

Start the engine, allow it to reach operating temperature and check for leaks.

Check for proper sending unit operation.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 03:01 PM
Official Troll
 
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Location: Flushing, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SexyGXE
Locate the coolant temperature sending unit on the engine.

Disconnect the sending unit electrical harness.

Drain the engine coolant below the level of the switch.

Unfasten and remove the sending unit from the engine.

Coat the new sending unit with Teflon tape or electrically conductive sealer.

Install the sending unit and tighten to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).

Attach the sending unit’s electrical connector.

Fill the engine with coolant.

Start the engine, allow it to reach operating temperature and check for leaks.

Check for proper sending unit operation.
OR.......

- Disconnect harness
- Remove with rachet and socket (forgot what socket size)
- Coolant will leak out, don't freak. It won't be much.
- Put new sensor in and tighten
- Plug harness back in



I didn't bother with the teflon/sealer cause the original one had nothing around the threads. Both the original and new sensor use a copper washer.

The sensor is located on the passenger side, on the back side of the head, just under the intake mainfold. Buy the sensor to see what it look like so you know which sensor it is.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 03:58 PM
1994 nissan altima
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: atlanta ga
Posts: 425
anyway back to the point, i ordered a new temp gauge. you said takes 5 minutes to install? is it on the radiator?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:28 PM
The Don.
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,954
Quick warning note: Never use teflon tape on sensors where the ground is provided by the sensor's metal casing. This creates resistance on the ground side and limits the amount of current that can flow through the sensor. If the current flow is very small this might not be a problem per se but for high current demand circuits you are effectively affecting that circuit.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:32 PM
c'old man winter
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,091
jserrano - true, and good tip for anyone doing this
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:34 PM
Official Troll
 
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Location: Flushing, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorrycharlie
anyway back to the point, i ordered a new temp gauge. you said takes 5 minutes to install? is it on the radiator?
Have you not been reading? This isn't the sensor that operates the temp gauge on the dash (it's a bogus sensor). Read my above post for the location of the actual sensor.
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