I finally pulled my UR pulley off of my '93 today...thought I was going to go nuts till I finally found the pulley puller. There is NO way that pulley slips off, and I had antiseize compound on it. Anyway, I remember posting upon installation 3+ years ago that the marks were way off when I was using a timing light. I finally got another OEM pulley (thanks chuck!) and was comparing today and the marks are much closer than I remembered. The only noticeable difference is that the UR marks are closer together but are in the same area as the OEM marks. And I lined both keyholes(whatever)up w/a file so they were matched perfectly. If looking left to right on top of the pulley, the UR marks seemed to begin in the same place but were closer together and so in all, the last UR mark was about an 1/8" sooner than the last OEM mark(20deg BTDC).
So, somewhat confused and a little annoyed at all of my labors being mostly in vain, I reassembled everything, ran the car, pulled the TPS, and checked the timing. According to the UR pulley, I'm only running about 15deg BTDC, or around the 5th mark to the right.
Could this be right? The car has seemed to have a noticeable lag at times when accelerating from a stop then really picks up around 3k rpm....
I'm thinking of getting a Consult reading to verify my curiosity...Could partially explain my poor gas mileage as well (new NGK plugs)...
IF I can somehow negotiate around the $80 labor hour service charge....I can't believe one Memphis Nissan dealer used to only charge me $35 for a diagnostic!! Now they're under new management and also charge around $80.
For that price, I'm thinking of just advancing the timing to where the pulley reads 22degrees and listening very paranoidally for pinging...
What, will the alternator not come as far forward w/the header on?? Which belt size were you running before??
I'm running the 520 (52" length)....stock is 52.5"....so if you can't bring the alternator forward enough, you'll need something a little shorter, less than 52"....
no, my problem is getting the alternator to go back far enough to get the belt on. i had the same problem with the stock belt and pulley. now it's worse.
I have a spare stock pulley and I swore the UR pulley and stock timing marks were "dead on" that last time I compared the two side-by-side. I'd have to revisit this again to make sure this is still true. I've read somewhere that the older UR pulleys timing marks were off but not the newer ones. If they are off then I'd have to use the dremel tool to carve out and white paint the true ignition timing marks on the UR pulley.
I'm thinking the same thing about mine....I just can't believe my car's timing is possibly around 15deg BTDC....that's very low to me. That's w/the TPS unplugged, the car warmed up and idling around 750 (automatic tranny), and all accessories turned off. We checked it about three times. That's why I'm thinking of getting this verified by Consult just to be sure about the accuracy of the UR pulley marks.
And as for the UR marks being more compressed from L to R, I would guess that's just because of the smaller diameter pulley and I'd imagine that they're accurately proportionate to the OEM marks which are spread out a little wider....Now just to avoid an $80 timing check fee....
Damn, I am going through hell trying to put on the new alternator drive belt for the UR pulley. I've never had this much problem when previously installing the OEM belts. Does anyone have some type of technique to get this bitch on? The alternator is at it's maximum loose stop point. Need some recommendation guys. I haven't tried installing the old one to see if it works because the UR pulley calls for different numbered replacement belts. HELP!!
same problem here. what I do is push the belt over as far as it goes (all but last groove on mine), and then turn the pulley with a socket till the belt turns itself totally on the pulley. then when i tighten it, it gets DAMN tight. this is the method i've used for awhile. just be careful not to damage the belt.
the UR belt is "51 i believe and i think the "52 is stock.
if i ever find a 51.5" belt, i'll post where i found it.
Last edited by chuck34gboro : 07-25-2005 at 04:56 AM.
OK, I am done and 100% satisfied with this Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley mod. I can definitely feel a difference with acceleration and overall performance. The AC works fine and I don't feel anything wrong with the steering or the engine cooling. My worst experience was getting the small alternator belt back on. IMO, this mod isn't pointless after all.
My initial concern with the alternator has washed away. I have been monitoring the alternator voltage with the Battery and Charging System Monitor (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sho...hlight=battery) and the most I've lost was about 0.1 VDC. For example, when I start the engine cold, the alternator before would sit around 14.4 VDC. Now it is at 14.3 VDC. It used to hot idle at 13.9VDC and it is now at 13.8VDC.
I replaced the front cover oil seal, used Dayco belts, and of course the UR pulley.
Thanks y'all that have done this before. Your comments helped a lot.
Good deal, I just got back in town an will probably be installing the OEM crank pulley I got from Chuck to verify timing. I'm also going to try and check the TPS connector and sensor to make sure it's adjusted properly.
When I'm driving at a constant fairly low speed (around 40mph in OD) and I'm barely giving it any gas, I can feel a quick constant bucking back and forth. I'm thinking the TPS is out of alignment or something since all plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter are brand new Nissan OEM.
I once had a similar problem at highway speed and it turned out being a fuel injector. The solenoid resistance of fuel injector #2 was sitting around 52 ohms instead of about 11 ohms. Give that a check.
I wrote about this on my very first post to this forum. Check it out,
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