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High Beams Don't Work

4K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  StanzaDescendant 
#1 ·
This problem started about 2 weeks ago and whenever I'm driving at night w/ my lights on, if I switch it to the high beams(either thru pushing the control thing forward to lock them on or pulling it to temporarily put them on), the low beams go out just like they should but the high beams don't come on at all so I'm left with no visibility in front of me. I checked the fuses next to the battery for the high beams and they are still working. I'm pretty much ruling out that both high beam bulbs or harnesses went out at precisely the same time because I don't think that is likely at all. Any ideas what I should do next to fix this problem? Thanks in advance.
 
#3 ·
Ok thanks, I'll check those. Any recommendations on replacement headlights that may be better than OEM but not crazy bright or way too expensive? Thanks.
 
#5 ·
Do the Silverstars require an adaptor harness of any sort or will they simply plug and play?
 
#7 ·
Thanks a lot. I'm gonna go buy some now.
 
#10 ·
Yeah, they took roughly 2 minutes to install and work great. Thanks guys.
 
#11 ·
And I believe the current comes from your passengers side of the car and continues to the drivers side headlight. So if the power is interrupted before your pass side light it won't continue to your dr. Side light. So look behind your pass. Light for any bad connectors. Get test light and with car on and switch activating your high beams see if you got power into your fuse box located next to your radiator overflow canister. If you got power on both sides of the fuse your problem is now between fuse box and headlight. Check it out. Gl
 
#12 ·
If you got SilverStar Ultras, save your receipts. If you are lucky they will burn out before the warranty expires. I tried them once, they lasted one year and two weeks (low beams burnt out in both bulbs, within two days of each other) Of course they have a one year warranty.

Regular Silver Stars last pretty much forever. Don't know what the reason for the difference in lifespan is.
 
#14 ·
With H.I.D lights being so inexpensive now I just try to order the highest quality set for the best price. I stay away from the real cheap ones. You get what you pay for!! I've had sets go in a few days and I've had a set in my Acura for two years now. No problems!!!
 
#15 ·
Real HID still isn't that cheap. Aftermarket on the other hand. . .

My current setup is using Osram CBI's which retail for ~$185, plus the projectors, ~$120, associated harnesses and shrouds, $45, and aftermarket ballasts, $120. My Matsushita ballasts that I had potted I got for a steal during a sale but I believe TRS usually sells them for ~$160 or so.

Now if you go cheap aftermarket, (eBay/DDM/VVME, etc) you're looking at $40 for ballasts and bulbs.

Which do you think will function better? The $40 kit that somehow they're making profit on, even after warranties. Or the OE kit that meets or exceeds manufacturer specs?
 
#16 ·
That's why I said stay AWAY from the cheap ones. $185 to me is a good price. Plus I got angel eyes projector 6000k halo w 10000k low and 10000 high. And 10000k fogs so yea I got over $500 in visibility as well! You pay $40 for HID then expect th to screw up. And factory bulbs are almost $100 a bulb. I said I buy the highest quality for the best price not cheapest price! I agree w ya though!!
 
#18 ·
Wow. . .you need to educate yourself on how the kelvin scale and HID's work if you think it's a good idea to run a dedicated HID high beam, nevermind 6000K fogs and 10,000 low/high beams.

Wow, bumped a 7 year old thread for that??

Blue lights make your car go faster.
Doh! Didn't even realize I was responding to a 7 year old bump.
 
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