Nonsense, i replaced both of my bearings 2 days ago. Takes about 2 hours for the pair, i was being carefull not to mess anything up.
1- take the knuckle out of the car
2- flip the knuckle over, brace the knuckle against a bench by the part where the 2 bolts for the strut mount.
3- get a socket the a couple of millimeters smaller then the outer diameter of the hub
4- put a rag on the floor underneath the hub to cushion its fall
5- get a hammer, and whack the socket as hard as you can until the hub falls down, out of the bearing.
6- remove dust seals from the knuckle ( buy new ones to put back in)
7- remove snap ring from the INSIDE of the knuckle ONLY ( use a thin screw driver to pick it out, the snap ring has little slits in it where a small screw driver fits perfectly, then use a bigger screw driver to pry out the snap ring, dont let it shoot you in the eye as it pops out )
8 - now its time to get the bearing out, find a suitable size socket and place over the bearing from the outside of the knuckle, 36mm you used to take the axle nuts off should be the right size. Place the socket over the bearing, and pound the days lights out of it until the bearing comes out, it might take a while, a few good slams should get it moving. Try to avoid hitting the part of the knuckle where the dust seal sits, because it will be a bitch to put a seal in there afterwords. If you are confused as to which way the bearing should come out, just remember that it can only come in 1 direction, where there is no snap ring stopping it.
9- once you get the bearing out, its time to put a new one in. Clean the inside of the the knuckle where the new bearing will sit, and apply a thin layer of axle grease to the bearings outer race.
10- place the bearing in the knuckle and seat it square
11- Take the OUTER RACE from your OLD bearing and place it over the new bearing. With a small hammer, gently start tapping around the outer race of the old bearing to start the new bearing down into the knuckle. Tap around in a circle to make sure that the new bearing goes straight down and doesnt cock to the side.
12- Once the new bearing starts to go down into the knuckle and is going down straight, you can use a larger hammer, and tap harder to speed things up.
13- Keep hammering it until the bearing makes its way down to the outer snap ring
14- Once the bearing is sitting all the way inside the knuckle against the outer snap ring, you can replace the inner snap ring you took out earlier ( Use a large pair of needle nose pliers to replace the snap ring.
15- After the snap ring, replace the dust seals.
15- Take your newly purchased shiny hub and place it in the bearing from the outside, make sure it sits square. VERY VERY IMPORTANT. YOU MUST SUPPORT THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE INNER RACE OF THE BEARING. If the inner race is not supported you will drive the hub throught the first half of the inner race, and the second will just fall out of the bottom. Use a socket the size of the inner race, and palce it underneath the knuckle, use some wooden blocks to support the knuckle so that it doesn't fall over as you strike the hub down. Now with the Inner race supported start tapping the hub down into the bearing, gently at first, once it sits squarely in the bearing, tap it harder. Check once in a while to make sure that the inner race is supported. Once the hub is all the way down in the bearing, YOU ARE DONE!
16- If you choose not to get a new hub, then you are going to have to remove the inner race off the hub that you are going to be reusing. People have different ways of removing this piece, some bash it off with a hammer, others using a pulley tool. This is what i do, make an X mark in it with a cutting tool. Make 2 cuts in the race to make an X shape in order to stress the metal. Now that it is stressed, it is fragile and will sure crack, if you just out a large screw driver in the X and hit it with a hammer, the inner race will fall right off.
This may seem like a big job, but its really not. I am used to doing bearing with a press at work which takes a very short time, but I had to do my bearings a couple of days ago, and i decided to do it by hand, because work is too far of a commute on foot. I must admit, its really not that big of a job, its seems a lot harder then it is. DO IT ONCE AND YOU WILL NEVER FORGET HOW TO DO IT AGAIN.
OBX Catback; OBX WAI; ST RSB; OBX header; Xplode 52WX4
NGK irridium plugs/wires; Exel TZ-10; Hancook 225/40/18"; 20% tint;
Grounding Wire Kit; Powerslot Rotors; Hawk HP brake pads
Eiback pro kit; Tokico shocks; Adjustable Camber kit;
Trying to get my hands on a rear disc conversion. pm me if you have info