how to replace front right side wheel bearing - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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Old 05-03-2007, 01:29 AM
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how to replace front right side wheel bearing

i need to replace the bearing and started to do this today and i looked in the hayns manule to see how its don and it said take it to a service department. f-that it cant be that dificult to do or is it. ive done this befor on my 91 caprice and it was strate forward, but i started on my 93 alti andgot the axle nut off and thats as far as i got. is there a trick to getting the hub off or what.

i really dont want to take it to a service department, im to cheap for that.
any help would be great

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Old 05-03-2007, 03:38 AM
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any one know how its done

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Old 05-03-2007, 02:57 PM
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almost all cars today use sealed hub assemblies. They make it next to impossible to change the actual bearing themselves. You have to replace the hub assembly (thingy connected to your knuckle and that your rotor/drum bolts too, big brass colored round thing that weighs 400 billion pounds) they can range from like $75 - $150 in parts stores.

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I'm glad SOMEBODY finally said it. And of course it'd be YOU
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Considering you dont have a lift and I'm picturing this thing falling on your face, you may want to clearly understand what is involved here.
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Old 05-03-2007, 03:33 PM
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if am I not mistaken, when we changed our bearings...we just removed the knuckles and took it to a machine shop to have them pressed in...
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Old 05-03-2007, 04:53 PM
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you can do that too....but the actual bearing is a bitch to find...its easier to do the hub assembly

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I'm glad SOMEBODY finally said it. And of course it'd be YOU
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eclypse
Considering you dont have a lift and I'm picturing this thing falling on your face, you may want to clearly understand what is involved here.
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Old 05-03-2007, 05:56 PM
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The bearing is pressed into the knuckle, the hub is pressed into the bearing.
Unless you have a press, forget the diy angle. Remove the entire knuckle assy by taking it off the strut, lower ball joint and cv axle. Once free, take it along with the new bearing to a machine shop for pressing. Also consider a new hub (dealer only) because if the bearing is that bad, it chowdered the hub ad it will need to be replaced also. I see mangled hubs 80% of the time when doing these jobs.

Tom
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:09 PM
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^+1

if you dont have access to a press, the only thing you can do yourself is remove the knuckle from the vehicle and take it to a shop and have them press the hub and bearing. if you do have access, let me know because i just replaced my driver side bearing and can let you know everything involved.
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:14 AM
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the bearing should not go bad to often on our alti's, I would go used, screw buying it the dealership, my alti's have so many problems, i am not even going to spend the extra money to buy anything else new.

I am the unnecessary part replacement guy
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:35 AM
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Nonsense, i replaced both of my bearings 2 days ago. Takes about 2 hours for the pair, i was being carefull not to mess anything up.
1- take the knuckle out of the car
2- flip the knuckle over, brace the knuckle against a bench by the part where the 2 bolts for the strut mount.
3- get a socket the a couple of millimeters smaller then the outer diameter of the hub
4- put a rag on the floor underneath the hub to cushion its fall
5- get a hammer, and whack the socket as hard as you can until the hub falls down, out of the bearing.
6- remove dust seals from the knuckle ( buy new ones to put back in)
7- remove snap ring from the INSIDE of the knuckle ONLY ( use a thin screw driver to pick it out, the snap ring has little slits in it where a small screw driver fits perfectly, then use a bigger screw driver to pry out the snap ring, dont let it shoot you in the eye as it pops out )
8 - now its time to get the bearing out, find a suitable size socket and place over the bearing from the outside of the knuckle, 36mm you used to take the axle nuts off should be the right size. Place the socket over the bearing, and pound the days lights out of it until the bearing comes out, it might take a while, a few good slams should get it moving. Try to avoid hitting the part of the knuckle where the dust seal sits, because it will be a bitch to put a seal in there afterwords. If you are confused as to which way the bearing should come out, just remember that it can only come in 1 direction, where there is no snap ring stopping it.
9- once you get the bearing out, its time to put a new one in. Clean the inside of the the knuckle where the new bearing will sit, and apply a thin layer of axle grease to the bearings outer race.
10- place the bearing in the knuckle and seat it square
11- Take the OUTER RACE from your OLD bearing and place it over the new bearing. With a small hammer, gently start tapping around the outer race of the old bearing to start the new bearing down into the knuckle. Tap around in a circle to make sure that the new bearing goes straight down and doesnt cock to the side.
12- Once the new bearing starts to go down into the knuckle and is going down straight, you can use a larger hammer, and tap harder to speed things up.
13- Keep hammering it until the bearing makes its way down to the outer snap ring
14- Once the bearing is sitting all the way inside the knuckle against the outer snap ring, you can replace the inner snap ring you took out earlier ( Use a large pair of needle nose pliers to replace the snap ring.
15- After the snap ring, replace the dust seals.
15- Take your newly purchased shiny hub and place it in the bearing from the outside, make sure it sits square. VERY VERY IMPORTANT. YOU MUST SUPPORT THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE INNER RACE OF THE BEARING. If the inner race is not supported you will drive the hub throught the first half of the inner race, and the second will just fall out of the bottom. Use a socket the size of the inner race, and palce it underneath the knuckle, use some wooden blocks to support the knuckle so that it doesn't fall over as you strike the hub down. Now with the Inner race supported start tapping the hub down into the bearing, gently at first, once it sits squarely in the bearing, tap it harder. Check once in a while to make sure that the inner race is supported. Once the hub is all the way down in the bearing, YOU ARE DONE!
16- If you choose not to get a new hub, then you are going to have to remove the inner race off the hub that you are going to be reusing. People have different ways of removing this piece, some bash it off with a hammer, others using a pulley tool. This is what i do, make an X mark in it with a cutting tool. Make 2 cuts in the race to make an X shape in order to stress the metal. Now that it is stressed, it is fragile and will sure crack, if you just out a large screw driver in the X and hit it with a hammer, the inner race will fall right off.
This may seem like a big job, but its really not. I am used to doing bearing with a press at work which takes a very short time, but I had to do my bearings a couple of days ago, and i decided to do it by hand, because work is too far of a commute on foot. I must admit, its really not that big of a job, its seems a lot harder then it is. DO IT ONCE AND YOU WILL NEVER FORGET HOW TO DO IT AGAIN.

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Old 05-04-2007, 01:26 PM
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Just from experience your better off just going to the junk yard and getting the entire hub assembly off a car. I did my wheel bearings myself as well using the similar hammer method. The problem is that you have to use the hammer method to get the new bearing in as well. If this is the first time doing in you may not necessarily do it correctly. If you just a little off you'll push the bearing in warped and either damage it or warp the hub shaft. You can also break the plastic alignment screws as well as the thin metal dust shield that is over the hub assembly while hammering. I think a bearing for the altimas at it's cheapest is like 30 bucks. I bought two hub assemblies from a junkyard for 15 a piece. All you need to check for in the old one's is when you turn the hub it movies freely and there is no play when you try (by hand) to move it in and out.
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:24 PM
tlafrance tlafrance is offline
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By hammering, you run the risk of flat spotting the new bearing. The rollers inside are not designed to take that sort of shock. This is why a press is used. I'd not be suprised if a hammered in bearing had premature failure. But heck, what do I know, I've been an ASE master tech for 20 years

Tom
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Old 05-04-2007, 04:50 PM
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They do sell (on ebay) and I'm sure from different auto stores a FWD bearing press and removal tool. It is essentially a thick steel cup with a hole in it for a huge 30mm bolt that goes in the center. The other side of it goes into a thick plate that goes on the back of your hub. You use the tool to remove the bearing while the hub assempbly is on the car!!!!! Which is a convience beucase you have a chance of damging the lower ball joint when you remove it anyway. Anyway as you turn the bolt it slowly presses the old wheel bearing out of the hub.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:22 PM
tlafrance tlafrance is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steppinthrax
They do sell (on ebay) and I'm sure from different auto stores a FWD bearing press and removal tool. It is essentially a thick steel cup with a hole in it for a huge 30mm bolt that goes in the center. The other side of it goes into a thick plate that goes on the back of your hub. You use the tool to remove the bearing while the hub assempbly is on the car!!!!! Which is a convience beucase you have a chance of damging the lower ball joint when you remove it anyway. Anyway as you turn the bolt it slowly presses the old wheel bearing out of the hub.

+1 The trade name of the tool is a "Hub shark" and like everything else the Chinese have pirated the design and made a cheaper version. I have the tool and it makes quick work of ANY fwd hub bearing. You really need compressed air and an impact gun to make proper use of the tool (unless you eat 10k lbs of Wheaties that AM or have Popeye forearms)

Tom
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Old 05-05-2007, 12:03 AM
Altima_Craze Altima_Craze is offline
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There are a few down sides to using the hammer method. But my post was a response to someone saying that its impossible to do it without a press, 'forget the diy method'.
A press is obviously the better and easier way, but if you are strapped for cash, you can do them this way. If you do it right, and not just start bashing the bearing with a hammer, the bearing shouldnt fail prematurely. Do you really think that a tap of a hammer is more stressful on the bearing than a 20ton press forcefully coming down on that poor thing?

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Old 05-05-2007, 03:01 PM
tlafrance tlafrance is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altima_Craze
There are a few down sides to using the hammer method. But my post was a response to someone saying that its impossible to do it without a press, 'forget the diy method'.
A press is obviously the better and easier way, but if you are strapped for cash, you can do them this way. If you do it right, and not just start bashing the bearing with a hammer, the bearing shouldnt fail prematurely. Do you really think that a tap of a hammer is more stressful on the bearing than a 20ton press forcefully coming down on that poor thing?

It's not a few "taps". You have to beat the $hit out of the bearing to get it in. Look up "work hardening" on google. A press applys constant pressure evenly across the bearing race. Not saying it won't work. You can pull teeth with a pair of vice grips and yes, it works, but not the best choice because it's messy and painful.

Tom
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