I used some red silicone around the intake manifold to cylinder head gasket when I did mine about a year ago and mine has been fine. It might make for a bit of extra clean-up on the next gasket replacement, but I don't intend on replacing it again it as long as I own the car.
i attempted this earlier today bu wasn't able to successfully get the intake manifold off, the bolts didn't match the pictures exactly so i figured i might have missed something (i have a 2000 gxe)
i put everything back together thinking i would get a service manual and try again another day..
but now its worse. previously the car drove just fine but had a slightly rough low idle (below 1k )
now the engine is unable to rev any higher than 2k, the engine is shaky and the needle bounces..
i still need to read the code, but im guessing that one of the cylinders is not firing.
i attempted this earlier today bu wasn't able to successfully get the intake manifold off, the bolts didn't match the pictures exactly so i figured i might have missed something (i have a 2000 gxe)
i put everything back together thinking i would get a service manual and try again another day..
but now its worse. previously the car drove just fine but had a slightly rough low idle (below 1k )
now the engine is unable to rev any higher than 2k, the engine is shaky and the needle bounces..
i still need to read the code, but im guessing that one of the cylinders is not firing.
any ideas on what i might have done?
Lol simple. check the plugs on the throttle body make sure they are correct, i believe its the brown one on top black on bottom if thats the correct colors im going off top of my head... when i left one disconnected my car ran like shit and i couldnt drive it haha.
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Lol simple. check the plugs on the throttle body make sure they are correct, i believe its the brown one on top black on bottom if thats the correct colors im going off top of my head... when i left one disconnected my car ran like shit and i couldnt drive it haha.
yup i double checked those all last night with no success, but this morning i took a second look... and all i can say is dont forget to check the MAF connector...
you know i read this last night and i was gonna post that... but i didnt think that you would have been working near the MAF so i kept to myself lol. glad you got it fixed though.
one word of advice that im sure you already know - as you can see this is a pretty big job. dont rush and you will get it done, even it doesnt match the pics here 100%. if it is your only car and cannot live with 2-3 days of downtime, maybe even a week if something goes wrong, i would reconsider doing it yourself.
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yup i double checked those all last night with no success, but this morning i took a second look... and all i can say is dont forget to check the MAF connector...
everything is back to "normal" now
im glad you fixed it lol. i remember when i did my throttle body bore, i forgot to plug the maf back in and started the car. i didnt pop a cel light till i turned it off and back on. then i drove to the gas station and couldnt go over 2k rpm's cause the car kept bogging down lol... i didnt notice that it was my maf plug till i stopped in the middle of a road and popped my hood and wanted to slap myself for that mistake haaha.
you know i read this last night and i was gonna post that... but i didnt think that you would have been working near the MAF so i kept to myself lol. glad you got it fixed though.
one word of advice that im sure you already know - as you can see this is a pretty big job. dont rush and you will get it done, even it doesnt match the pics here 100%. if it is your only car and cannot live with 2-3 days of downtime, maybe even a week if something goes wrong, i would reconsider doing it yourself.
yah I've been on the fence on whether to do it myself or pay up and have a shop do it.
i figured i'd just give it a try on weekend and see what happens..
problem with taking it to a mechanic is I dont have one i've used in my area before, not sure who i can trust =D plus that would also usually mean they keep my car hostage for a days or weeks, which is problematic since this is my only car. on the other hand, if I can't do it myself I'm going to have to do this anyways
i think I'm going to see if i can take a peak at a service manual to get a better idea of whats involved.
i havent looked in there for it, but I bet they will call for removing the engine and/or head. your best bet if you want to do it yourself is search this forum. this thread is a great write-up, but there are 3 or 4 more on here as well. if you can find all of them and cross reference, you should find you have more than enough info to tackle it yourself.
a weekend should be sufficient assuming you have someone who can drive you to the store if you find you out half way through that you dont have all the necessary tools to complete the job lol
i havent looked in there for it, but I bet they will call for removing the engine and/or head. your best bet if you want to do it yourself is search this forum. this thread is a great write-up, but there are 3 or 4 more on here as well. if you can find all of them and cross reference, you should find you have more than enough info to tackle it yourself.
a weekend should be sufficient assuming you have someone who can drive you to the store if you find you out half way through that you dont have all the necessary tools to complete the job lol
I already found the link by searching the threads but thanks! I've only done a quick skim so I might have missed it.. but it doesn't looks like it outlines anything specifically regarding intake manifold removal. There is an exploded view diagram, but still not as detailed as I wish it was. I guess I'll keep skimming the manual and sit on it for a bit.
if I remember correctly it does look like the intake blow by pipe(rectangular shape right?) is in front of the bolt. If you are talking about the bolt shown in pic, the blow by pipe is a little above the bolt. my swivel is not completely mobile. I used my fingers to put it into place and my hands are pretty big.
there is one bolt on the transaxle side which is covered by metal vacuum line. I bent the line. but a better way is to remove throttle body.
I just started this job on my '99 Altima this weekend to replace a leaky intake gasket. Sure doesn't seem to be an hour and a half job to get the manifold off. I'm using a Haynes manual and it doesn't really have enough details. I just ordered the factory shop manual on CD-ROM, hoping for more details. In the meanwhile maybe someone can help me figure out what the Haynes manual is trying to tell me. It says to "remove the intake manifold collector mounting nuts and bolts." I did this--two nuts and 3 bolts. Next it says "Remove the intake manifold collector from the lower intake manifold." (I don't think there is a "lower intake manifold"--maybe they mean the lower side of the intake.) I really think this instruction was MUCH easier to write than it is to do. Looking at the engine from above and below, there just isn't enough room to remove the manifold collector (or plenum) from either the top or the bottom. Beside that, I can't get the collector loose--with the nuts and bolts removed, the collector won't separate from the upper intake, despite pounding downward on the collector (between the intake runners) with a piece of wood and dead-blow mallet. I can see why they want you to remove the collector, as the lower bolts on the intake manifold are very difficult (if not impossible) to get to otherwise. But I can't understand how they expect you to get the collector out of the way. Any help with this very frustrating problem would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Hey man, I completed this project back in May with the help of a friend. Took me 4 days on and off working on it.
Here is my writeup, no pictures though:
Yes, when they refer to the collector they are talking about the lower half of the intake manifold. From what I remember, mine seemed a bit stuck even after removing the nuts and bolts from it. I think it was still caught on a coolant hose or something. Make sure you starter is removed.....and the oil filter and adapter plate that the filter sits on. O and the throttle body of course. And there are 2 brackets, I dont know if you've removed those.
1 bracket is connected just above the starter to the collector I believe...maybe 3 or 4 bolts. Its small.
The other bracket is on the other side, near the oil filter. Its a long bent tube looking bracket. 2 bolts through it.
After all that is removed it should drop, might take a good whack, mine did. It should at least drop half an inch immediately if everything is off.
O and this took a while but I managed to remove the lower half completely from the engine bay without removing the upper manifold. It took a lot of twisting and pulling and being careful around the hoses. It sucked at times bending over and figuring out where it was catching every inch or so. But I removed it, and with that out of the way completely (and the help of a friend) the upper manifold bolts and nuts were unexpectedly easy to remove.
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