P0135 Code and blown Electronic Parts fuse - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
 
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Old 08-15-2007, 06:27 AM
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P0135 Code and blown Electronic Parts fuse

I just got through replacing both oxygen sensors after getting a P0135 and P0144. While installing the front sensor, I found that my header is cracked right on the top/in the middle, above the sensor. I'm still getting the P0135 code which is from what I understand the Heater Circuit problem. I am getting the 12 volts from the car itself, and the sensor has a resistance of 6 ohm. Would the crack in the header be the reason for the code? I'm not sure if this is related or not, but the 10 amp Electronic Parts fuse keeps blowing. Now the things that don't work because of that: power windows (door locks work), green LED lights in A/C control unit, cruise control, beeps when door is open and car is on. Anywhere I should start first? Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:11 PM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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First off, I'll answer the last question first. The 10A Electronics Parts fuse is unrelated with the oxygen sensor heater circuit. And if you want to verify it yourself, then here is a simple test.

- Put the ignition switch to ON.
- Set the multimeter to read 20VDC.
- Put the red lead of a multimeter on the light-green/black wire of the front oxygen sensor.
- Put the black lead of the multimeter to the negative of the battery.

You should get a battery voltage reading of about 12.6VDC. Now remove the Electronics Parts fuse and recheck that voltage. If it is still there then the that 10A fuse doesn't go to the oxygen sensor circuit. Actually, both front and rear heater circuits share a separate dedicated fuse of 10A.

So let's say the 12.6VDC is there on the light-green/black wire. Good that shows that power is reaching one end of the front heater. But now we need to check the other end - the orange wire - to see if the voltage is working correctly. This voltage comes from the ECU. So first start the engine. The orange wire should initially be about 0.4VDC while the engine is running at 3600 rpm or lower. Confirm this at idle. Now slowly start rev'ing the engine until you locate the rpm point where the orange wire trips to about battery voltage (approx. 14VDC since the engine is running.) That trip point should be just above the 3600rpm. And it should remain that way as long as the engine is running above 3600 rpm.

If the above test is fine, then that would mean that either the front heater circuit has an increase resistance along one of its wire path, or the sensor itself has increase resistance. The sensor heater resistance between the light-green/black and orange wires should be between 2.3-4.3 ohms. You need to test this out-of-circuit with power removed. You've mentioned it was at 6 ohms and that is not good. You probably have the wrong replacement installed. So triple verify the resistance and make sure you don't have inherent resistance in your meter probes that is causing a misreading.

This is a lot of info so just take your time and give us back your results when you've gotten a chance to test.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd. Ultra Red (AJ4).
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps /w Silverstars, NGK Ignition wires.
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:53 PM
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It's been a while, but I tested what jserrano said and everything checked out and was within spec. About a week later, the check engine light ended up turning off. The car seems to be running fine. Now the other problem I have is the fuse blowing. I don't even know where to start looking. Is there somewhere I can get a good wiring diagram. I tried to look in the Haynes manual but didn't find anything relevant.
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:07 PM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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Here is the block diagram for the electronic parts fuse in your Altima,



How often is the fuse blowing? Is the fuse blowing immediately or "at random"? Immediate means there is a complete short circuit somewhere while "at random" means there is an overloaded circuit occuring. The easiest to locate is a complete short circuit. The way to go about a short circuit is to disconnect the electrical power to ALL the components that the fuse protects. Then reconnect them one-by-one until the fuse blows.

An overloaded circuit is more of a challenge because one of the components is failing and has reached a level where it is conducting a larger amount of current. But only when a combination of components are operating will the fuse trip. Say, for instance, that the coil windings from cruise control HOLD relay would normally consume 5 amps of current. But because there are some internal windings that has shorted out, it now consumes 8 amps of current. Team that up with another component and it would probably cause that entire circuit to pass the 10 amps protection limit. An easy way to test for that would be to swap around a similar relay from the relay box that pertains to a totally different circuit. You'll know afterwards if the problem moves to a different circuit.

You can still rule out overloading by disconnecting the power for some of the circuits and wait a few days to see if the problem remains.

Hope this makes sense.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd. Ultra Red (AJ4).
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps /w Silverstars, NGK Ignition wires.
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Last edited by jserrano; 01-26-2010 at 10:09 PM. Reason: Fixed link
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:42 PM
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It blows immediately...I should be giving this a try tonight when I get home from school. Thanks a bunch for the diagram. Another question, what does ASCD, DLC for Consult, Push Control Unit, and OTRL mean? Thanks again.
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:05 AM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingspecv View Post
It blows immediately...I should be giving this a try tonight when I get home from school. Thanks a bunch for the diagram. Another question, what does ASCD, DLC for Consult, Push Control Unit, and OTRL mean? Thanks again.
ASCD - Automatic Speed Control Device, ie. cruise control unit
DLC - Data Link Connector. The diagnostic plug for the ECU in the fusebox.
Push Control Unit - The A/C control unit above the radio.
OTRL - Actually, it is DTRL (Daytime Running Lights). It is the control unit for running the lights in the daytime and is found in the Canadian models.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd. Ultra Red (AJ4).
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps /w Silverstars, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE
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Old 09-01-2007, 04:04 PM
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Found out that this is the relay/circuit that's giving me trouble, but I don't know which circuit this is. Any help would be great.

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Old 09-01-2007, 05:48 PM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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Good to hear you've finally tracked down the problem area.

Which exact relay are you talking about? You have not pointed it out. The plastic cover says the center is the blower, probably the blower motor, which I don't think is part of the 10A Electronic parts circuit. All those other blue relays are the exact same part number so you can swap them around with the blower relay, for further testing. The brown one I believe is the rear window defogger.

Good luck.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd. Ultra Red (AJ4).
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps /w Silverstars, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE

Last edited by jserrano; 09-02-2007 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:01 AM
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it's the one on the bottom left...i tried to highlight it in photoshop but didn't work out too well...another note is that when the relay is out, the car doesn't idle...
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Old 09-02-2007, 12:35 PM
jserrano jserrano is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingspecv View Post
it's the one on the bottom left...i tried to highlight it in photoshop but didn't work out too well...another note is that when the relay is out, the car doesn't idle...
If you look further up on the items circled in the diagram above, you will notice that the 10A fuse runs off the ignition relay, as does a lot more other circuits. But you are working your way towards the power source instead of the circuits. You have to concentrate in the items circled in the diagram.

For example, locate the ASCD control unit and disconnect the electrical harness plug from it and also from the brake switch. Do the same with the Push Control Unit (A/C control unit), etc. You have to work each individual component that way.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd. Ultra Red (AJ4).
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps /w Silverstars, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:08 PM
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By unplugging the ASCD harness, will it take care of all three switches?
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Old 12-03-2007, 11:27 PM
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Turned out to be the A/T Shift Lock Switch. Ended up taking it to a shop and getting charged $300, but it did get fixed. Thanks jserrano for the help!!

SHIFT_ukraine

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Old 12-15-2007, 01:23 AM
rrichard7 rrichard7 is offline
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Shift Lock Switch

My meter fuse blows every 2 months. Does the shift lock switch keep you from starting the car in any other gear but neutral or park? Or is it the overdrive lockout?

Thanks,
Ray
'94 GLE
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