Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern VA
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We need to make a few corrections, especially for the newbie readers.
The noid light test is a great test! Good advice. The only time it'll misguide you is if you get a used fuel rail with injectors from a junkyard. Then there is a potential that all injectors would be stuck shut because of rusted pintle. I was brought to this 'rusted pintle' attention by another member here that helped someone fix his problem.
DJ Hellfire: with all due respect, you are incorrect in your statement. Re-read what you are saying. The crankshaft position sensor (CKP), ie. crank sensor, is only used for ECU diagnostics to detect engine misfiring. It is not used to control anything, especially fuel injection or ignition. On the other hand, the camshaft position sensor (CMP) does indeed control BOTH injection and ignition pulses. So if you have at least one of the two signals, then the CMP must be working. So you could also surmise from this that the ECU relay must be working because it provides power to the CMP, among other components. Another note is that a bad CMP sets a ECU diagnostic code #11. But you will not know this because the CEL does not light up. This causes most people to turn back the ignition switch to the OFF position, instead of leaving it as is, and checking for ECU diagnostics.
gatorfanss: that white/red wire is actually yellow/red - the weathering elements does that sometimes. Also, you are incorrect in assuming it is used to power the ignition coil and the power transistor. That resistor is used to feed the ECU a signal called an Ignition Check (IGNCK). That is how the ECU senses the ignition pulse and sets an ECU diagnostic code #21, if it is missing. It doesn't set a CEL so you'll have to check for it after trying to start the engine for five (5) seconds.
Here are another set of tests,
- disconnect the wiring plug to the power transisitor but leave the ignition coil plug attached.
- set the ignition switch to ON.
- backprobe for battery power on the black/red wire of the ignition coil.
- backprobe for battery power on the green wire of the ignition coil.
- check for battery power on the ignition coil high voltage wire. That is right, ignition coil HV wire. Only I can come up with crazy tests like this.
- finally, rerun the same tests but with the power transistor wiring plug attached.
Let us know what you find.
Last edited by jserrano; 02-12-2008 at 12:56 PM.