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Does anyone know what grease to use on the front wheel bearings for 99 altima? I know that you are not supposed to repack them since they are seal bearings, but what should be used if you must?
The problem is that I had just pressed in a new bearing into the knuckle, but right before I finished, the mighty 25 ton press died. The bearing was about 3/4 inch from the retainer ring. So I used the outer part of the old bearing, to wack it into place with a big hammer. It worked fine and I didn't scratch anything, except that the retainer ring from the inner part of the bearing came out and the two inner halves fell out. As you can imagine, some dirt got inside of the bearing, and to fully get it out, I'd have to fully clean the bearing of all the grease, polish it nicely, and then repack it.
So the question really is, what can I use to safely clean this seal bearing (i.e. brake cleaner? oil eater? engine degreaser?) and then what type of grease should I pack it with (will regular wheel bearing grease work or will it damage the plastic retainers? etc..). I can't just call up Nissan I don't think, since they'll just say its not re-packable and you have to buy a new bearing.
Ugh, sounds like a fun endeavor...
That bearing could be toast already because once dust particles in the air or microscopic crap gets in there, cleaning and greasing may not be enough to get it all, rendering the bearing as good as a paperweight. However, you can give salvaging it a shot by cleaning liberally with a cleaner such as electrical cleaner. It's potent enough to strip grease and the like and won't leave a film behind like most cleaners will. I've never actually heard of what type of grease manufacturers use for sealed bearings, but regular wheel bearing grease would probably do the trick. Just make sure you clean the snot out of the entire bearing. It only takes a little bit of crud to take out a bearing in short order. I wouldn't expect it to last like an unscathed bearing would, though. I'd seriously get another bearing and try it again. Sorry dude...
I'll give it a good clean out, and dry it with some air. I know I should probably go and get a new bearing, but that'd be another $60 and some very innovative way of getting it in .
I know I should probably take it to a shop and have it done, but the thing is I really don't trust most mechanics. If their press had died and leaked hydraulic fluid all over the bearing, and then they had to wack it to finish the job, they wouldn't care if the bearing got dirty. They'd put it together, wipe it down, and serve it on a platter to me. Well anyway, I hope this works, wish me luck!
Whew! I cleaned the bearing out today... it is actually pretty easy to take apart. Both inner races come right out as mentioned before, and the inner ball retainers snap right out. Pretty neat since its pretty easy to clean it that way. However, after putting it all back together with Valvoline Durablend semi-syn grease (the black stuff), i'm a bit worried .
First of all, the consistency of their grease was a bit thicker, it didn't stick too much, and gave off a nice film. DuraBlend is a bit lighter, and very sticky (you can almost stretch it in between your fingers). I also got a can of Coastal Hi-Temp Moly grease, its not as sticky, but still not quite the same.
Now when I put the whole thing together, and rotated it, it seems a little difficult. Perhaps I put too much grease, but more likely its because of the DuraBlend. Also, when I rotate it, I hear very very quiet clicks . I'm not 100% sure they're dirt/rust. They could even be tiny air bubbles escaping. But never the less, I'm probably going to take it apart and clean it again. The darn knuckle sheds rust dust like its what it was made for.
One thing I don't really understand is why are the bearings not sealed better? I mean even if everything was fine the first time around, any dust that landed on the face of the bearing could easily seep in under the race. It almost seems unavoidable. Oh and not to mention, when you install the hub into the bearing, you have to take the retainer out, and the two inner races WILL come apart...So no matter how you put it, even at a dealership a little contamination is unavoidable. ....unless you buy the assembled knuckle-hub (do they even sell them that way?)
I guess I just have to remember that frustration is the integral part of auto repair
Good to hear it went back together without too much hassle!
The clicks that you're hearing, is it a pretty steady click or is it an uneven click in terms of frequency? It sounds like it's just the grease working its way around, but it might be dirt. An uneven click would help determine that better, as a steady click would indicate dirt or rust on the face of one of the rollers and pinching in the same spot. I wouldn't imagine you'd feel the small bits of dust if they got into the bearing as the grease would probably help to absorb that. If it is unsteady in frequency, I'd try working it some more before resorting to tearing down and repacking. It may just work itself out as the air pockets are pushed out...
Most likely the Durablend is causing the difficulty in turning. That stuff is STICK-EEE!!!! It probably won't affect anything if you put it back on the car, though, unless it's really tight. (i.e. wheel pull)
Keep us posted on your findings. I'm curious if it works out all right. I saw a couple guys try to repack a sealed bearing when I used to wrench and they're didn't have near the success you're encountering so far. Good luck!
Its definitely very fine dirt/dust. I will take it apart and repack it with the Coastal Hi-Temp grease. 500F dropping point can't hurt anything . Also since its very light, similar to the original grease, it will be much easier to detect dirt (I think thats how it got there in the first place, since the Dblend tub wasn't new).
I have to wait until Wed. or Thurs. next week before I put everything back together, since I ordered a new brake shield, and it has to be put on before the hub. I'll post some pics Monday to show the whole bearing dilemma.
These bearings are not truly sealed bearings as far as I'm concerned. Sealed bearings wouldn't fall apart on you for no reason, and they definitely wouldn't leak any grease or let any dirt in (you can see the gap with your eyes). So I laugh when the guy at the dealer tells me that they really can't be repacked...wonder if I should bring it in, and demonstrate how it comes apart in 10 seconds with your fingers. Of course its things like this that keep auto manufacturers in business.
Leaving to cape-cod in the morning, until Sunday night. Great weekend to all!~
um... when i lift my car up on a jack, my wheel moves, how to say, forward and back? not roling, but if you stand next to it, put one hand on the top and the other on the bottom, it will move slightly to and from you. all the wheel lugs are tight, the axle moves with it, and theres nothing wrong with the wheel itsself. it also shakes almost unnoticably while driving, even thought the tire is balanced properly and my mounts are fine. i was told i need a new wheel bearing, but is there a temporary fix?
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97 Altima to Bluebird conversion coming in '09!
Absolutely NOT! And you cannot drive the car or you could be replacing more than just the bearing! It could also be the ball-joint, which is on the lower control arm. Look around under where the axle enters the knuckle, and see if the ball-joint dust boot is torn. If the grease leaked out, or water got in there, it will do that. You can take off the arm, and buy an aftermarket ball-joint, and have a machine shop press it in for ten bucks. Also you'll be able to rattle the old joint when you take your arm off, just to make sure thats it. If the knuckle moves when you move the hub, then it should be the balljoint.
I finally found something on how to repack sealed bearings! I actually like the method this guy came up with, and I'm thinking of using it! Click Here. Its on a vw, but we dont care about that... Will do it some time this week. CourtesyParts are taking their sweet time with the parts...
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Front wheel bearing problem
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. I'm not 100% sure they're dirt/rust. They could even be tiny air bubbles escaping. But never the less, I'm probably going to take it apart and clean it again. The darn knuckle sheds rust dust like its what it was made for. 
. Also since its very light, similar to the original grease, it will be much easier to detect dirt (I think thats how it got there in the first place, since the Dblend tub wasn't new). 
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