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post #1 of 3 Old 10-01-2008, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch bleed how to

Bleed the Master Cylinder first guys, I've read many threads including one member saying how they were pumping the clutch pedal for hours.

First, Disconnect the clutch line that goes directly to the master cylinder with a 10mm wrench. Allow all existing fluid to bleed out of that via gravity, or by pumping the clutch pedal. Why is this part necessarily? You can shoot a light down into the core of the master clyinder to check if the main ballast is dirty. If it is dirty, clean it ONLY with flushing of fluid.

Next preparation step is to go into the cabin and crawl underneath to your clutch pedal. Remove the Pin and Clip which connects your clutch fork to your clutch pedal. You will need a good pair of plyers for what is to be done next.

Get some clear vinyl or clear silicone tubing which fits into the hole where the brake line used to connect to the master cylinder. The other side of the tube will loop back into the top of the master cylinder.

Make sure all of the bleeding valves on the slave cylinders are 100% closed. Fill the Master cylinder with fluid, making sure that the master cylinder never empties during the entire bleeding process.

Go back into the cabin and use the plyers previously mentioned to clamp down on the fork, pushing the fork all the way to the firewall *you can't push it ALL the way with the clutch pedal itself, which explains the removal*.

Using the plyers, pump the clutch fork all the way and you will be able to see all the master cylinder air in the tubing pump back into the the top. Once all of the air is pumped out of the tubing, the next quick part begins.

All of the air should now be bleed out of the master cylinder. What you need to do next is to remove the tubing from the clutch line hole, and ninja the brake line back into the master cylinder. Now.. You will have fluid leaking out of the hole, but if your master cylinder is full, no air will get in thru that point due to gravity. Once the clutch line is back into the master cylinder, proceed to bleed the clutch lines.

You can now reconnect the clutch cylinder and the clutch pedal, via the pin and clip. Start pumping your clutch pedal and you should be able to feel pressure. Keep pumping and keep an eye on your master cylinder, keeping it topped up. Go to your slave cylinder bleeder and open it just a bit, allowing yourself to see some small bubbling from the bleeder valve. The pedal will go all soft again so close the bleeder valve when all of the air is empty while keeping the master cylinder topped up. Repeat Repeat and Repeat until no air bubbles are visible, and then move onto the transmission to bleed that valve in the same manor.

There ya go.

- Billy

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post #2 of 3 Old 10-02-2008, 01:25 AM
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exactly like your brakes

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post #3 of 3 Old 10-02-2008, 09:40 PM
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You don't have to worry about all that master cylinder bleeding if you purchase the Mighty Vac handpump. They're at Harbor Freight for approx $40. With it, you just pump all the fluid out through the slave cylinder bleeder. Easy as pie, no mess.

Good write-up for those doing it the old-fashioned way, though.

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