Removing Intake Manifold - Altima 95 - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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#1 Old 11-27-2008, 04:30 AM
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Removing Intake Manifold - Altima 95

1) I tried to remove the intake manifold to change the gasket following Haynes instructions.
Now the intake manifold is held by 10 Nuts & Bolts to the Engine as shown in the picture.



I was able to take out #9, #8, #1, #2, #7, #10.
The rest I can't even see.
I can reach #3 & #5 with my fingers, but I am not sure what tool do I use to take them off?
And the rest two #4 & #6 are impossible to reach by any tool either from above or below.
I gave up at this point. Now I wonder is it even possible to remove the intake manifold while the engine is in the car.
If anyone has removed it please let me know how you did it.

2) I had the check engine light with one of codes giving knock sensor. I took the sensor out and found it to have an open circuit (infinite resistance) with a multimeter. Does that mean the knock sensor is bad?
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#2 Old 11-27-2008, 05:36 AM
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There is a very well documented thread about removing your intake manifold within this section of the forum. I don't know what specifically to search for, but it should be very easy to pull up. I've accessed the same thread several times.

It covers everything so all of your answers will be answered.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic20104_1.gif

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#3 Old 11-27-2008, 03:26 PM
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Here is my writeup:

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/gen...-replaced.html

There are better ones....with pictures

Like this one:

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/gen...e-removal.html

There he links to others....I like J's as well.

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#4 Old 11-27-2008, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kumarkumar View Post
1) I tried to remove the intake manifold to change the gasket following Haynes instructions.
Now the intake manifold is held by 10 Nuts & Bolts to the Engine as shown in the picture.



I was able to take out #9, #8, #1, #2, #7, #10.
The rest I can't even see.
I can reach #3 & #5 with my fingers, but I am not sure what tool do I use to take them off?
And the rest two #4 & #6 are impossible to reach by any tool either from above or below.
I gave up at this point. Now I wonder is it even possible to remove the intake manifold while the engine is in the car.
If anyone has removed it please let me know how you did it.

2) I had the check engine light with one of codes giving knock sensor. I took the sensor out and found it to have an open circuit (infinite resistance) with a multimeter. Does that mean the knock sensor is bad?
I used a 2 1/4 and 3/8 drive 12mm universal socket, and also a universal socket, and 12mm ratcheting wrenches, they help a lot, , Be like monkey, that the only way to do it, put something like padding over the engine so you are conformable, the key is have patience. One thing have you dropped the intake plenum?
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...3/100_0826.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...3/100_0822.jpg

One thing I dont like was the antifreeze coming out of some hoses, man that stuff tasted sweet, just bad, I got a wet, plus it was in the winter, I just hate when that happens,

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Last edited by Mr.Nissan; 11-27-2008 at 10:18 PM.
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#5 Old 11-27-2008, 10:12 PM
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Thanks everyone.

@Mr.Nissan KA24DE
Do I "have to" drop the intake plenum to take out the intake manifold?
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#6 Old 11-27-2008, 10:21 PM
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Yes, you have to drop it,ie:
there is some 10mm holding a wires and there this son bitch bolt,it is a pain in the ass to remove. I did not put it back.


Used to own a 93' Altima KA24DE!
Revenge feels so good!
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Fix it now! When it is right, not when it is very $$$ to fix!!!

Last edited by Mr.Nissan; 11-27-2008 at 10:23 PM.
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#7 Old 11-27-2008, 10:31 PM
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smj999smj from jonko.com says:

Quote:
Originally Posted by smj999smj,Oct 8 2005, 11:40 PM

I dont recall seeing too many throttle body gaskets failing on Altimas, but I have seen a lot of intake manifold gaskets fail on Altimas. I believe the allen bolts are 6 or 8mm. The throttle body is harder than some, but overall not too bad; keep in mind that coolant passes through it. If it is the intake manifold gasket, it's a real pain. About a 4-5 hour job. Early Altimas, like yours, used triangular shaped ports intake ports while later versions used oval-shaped ports. The reason I mention this is that the parts numbers were switched in some Nissan parts systems so if it is the intake manifold, you want the correct gasket. You'll need Nissan #'s 14032-1E400 and 14035-1E400. (Later oval port used #'s 14032-5B600 & 14035-5B600). Be careful not to break the ported vacuum switch that screws into the coolant jacket near intake runner #1, at the bottom of the intake.

You don't need to remove the head. I find it is a lot easier to do if you remove the oil filter and oil filter adapter. Make sure you get a gasket for the adapter. There is a main support brace from the block to the lower intake that must be removed. There is also a smaller brace that bolts to the bellhousing and the throttle body that needs to be removed. Remove the starter. Disconnect the linkage to the throttle body and the appropriate throttle cables, fuel lines and vacuum hoses. Unplug the oil pressure switch and P/S load switch, etc. The air box/MAS/intake duct assy. must be removed. I think there's an EGR valve and/or EGR passage tube that has to be disconnected. The fuel injection rail must be removed. Coolant drained. Unbolt the lower intake plenum and let it drop down. Unbolt the upper intake manifold. Double nut the two intake manifold studs and remove from the head. *Note: some of the nuts are difficult to get to, so make sure you have a good assortment of extensions and 10 and 12mm sockets and universal sockets, preferably in both 1/4" and 3/8" drive. you should now be able to push the intake back far enought to replace the gasket. If the plenum gasket was not damaged, i would recommend re-using it. Otherwise, you'll have to agonizingly scrap the old one off and use a mirror to make sure you get all of the old gasket off. Reassemble and torque bolts to specs, working center to outermost nuts. Easiest done on a lift.
It is a lot of work to get the intake off of an Altima...Thank the engineers!

Intake nuts/bolts are 12mm. You'll see a lot of 10mm. The EGR pipe requires a 1-1/16th inch open end wrench. Philips head screws for the fuel hose clamps. You'll see some 14mm as well, as in the starter bolts. The starter is a real pain in itself, but I think you already found that out! You'll also need some universals and a selection of extentions...a razor blade or two...a scraper...Pblaster...a new oil filter and a wrench to remove the old one. A flathead screwdriver for the radiator drain. You won't run into any 13mm unless someone was in there before!
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#8 Old 11-28-2008, 07:29 PM
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How do you open #4 & #6?
There is this rectangular cross section metal pipe that runs parallel to and below the fuel rail, which sits just in front of #4 & #6. This makes it impossible to reach even with the swivel rachets. Do I need to open that pipe?
If so how?

Also after the hose clamps have been loosened, is there a simple trick/tool to take them off? I find them terribly hard to pull them off and fear to rip them apart if too much brute force is applied.

Also do I need to drain the engine oil? Haynes Manual tells only to drain the coolant.

Photo of the metal pipe circled in yellow color.


Last edited by kumarkumar; 11-28-2008 at 10:41 PM.
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#9 Old 11-30-2008, 02:04 AM
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Any suggestions guys?
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#10 Old 11-30-2008, 05:09 AM
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You don't need to drain engine oil.

That bar that you are referring to does not need to be removed. Make sure you remove the lower plenum first....at least unbolt it from the upper half so you can move it out of the way. As far as reaching the bolts, I just a swivel with different attachments. I used different combinations of swivels, short/deep socket, and length of extensions to get the right reach and angle needed to access the bolts. Also, I had a friend help with this part. He was underneath with the wrench while I was over the engine guiding his socket into place by reaching through the runners. This helped a lot and made removing the manifold bolts pretty easy.

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#11 Old 11-30-2008, 05:12 AM
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Also for the hose clamps....do you mean once you loosen the hose clamps, how do you remove the hose without tearing it? I used a pair of pliers and just gently twisted it back and forth until it broke free of the pipe it is gripped around. Once you break the actual rubber hose free from its grip, just takes a bit of twisting and sliding to remove it. They can be a pain though sometimes.

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#12 Old 11-30-2008, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakgord View Post
You don't need to drain engine oil.
Make sure you remove the lower plenum first....at least unbolt it from the upper half so you can move it out of the way.
Thanks zakord.

I unbolted the lower plenum. It moved like 0.5 inch to the bottom but doesn't fall down completely. Something is holding it from falling completely. I cannot figure out what. But this much of movement helped me take out all the nuts & bolts from the intake manifold (except #10, which does not come out fully because of the throttle body in front of it).
After taking out all the nuts & bolts the intake manifold is also moving like 0.5 inch backwards but I am not able to take it out. Something is holding it.
I am stuck at this point.
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#13 Old 11-30-2008, 04:33 PM
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You should remove the throttle body completely before removing the manifold. It makes it easier....also the starter should be removed....its lets the manifold drop fully and allows for more space to work. Make sure the oil filter and adapter plate is removed (gasket), is necessary to allow it to drop properly.

There are several electrical connections that need to be removed to let it drop....mostly towards the back passenger side, and underneath towards the middle. Also of course the 2 (maybe 3) manifold support brackets need to be removed.

When I tried to remove my lower plenum there was still a vac hose attached, keeping me from removing it. Took me a while to see what was still catching it, so keep an eye on all hoses that run to the manifold.

There's also a large stubby hose underneath the manifold that connects to the IACV I believe....needs to be disconnected to remove the manifold properly...also at this spot is the knock sensor and another electrical connector/bracket. This spot was tricky.

Also, even with everything disconnected from the lower plenum, it still sometimes takes a whack with a mallet to drop it. Just be careful here.

Keep count of your nuts and bolts, make sure you have all out...and then keep track of them. I didn't take many pictures to help you out during my procedure. Keep at it, be patient and let me know how it goes. I'll try to help.


Last edited by zakgord; 11-30-2008 at 04:35 PM.
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#14 Old 11-30-2008, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakgord View Post
You should remove the throttle body completely before removing the manifold. It makes it easier....also the starter should be removed...
I tried to remove the throttle body. I guess there are total 6 bolts (4 Allen bolts and 2 regular bolts that hold it). I removed all the 6 of them. Still I can't remove the throttle body. Are there more to be removed?
The 6 bolts I have shown in yellow in the picture below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zakgord View Post
Make sure the oil filter and adapter plate is removed (gasket), is necessary to allow it to drop properly.
If I have to remove the oil filter then I will have to drain the engine oil. Isn't it?

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#15 Old 12-01-2008, 01:38 AM
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Hmm, don't know why the throttle body won't budge. Make sure all hoses, EGR tubes, EGR brackets/components, and that sort are removed too. Some of that stuff around the throttle body is attached to it as well. I don't remember any problems when removing my throttle body.

When you remove the filter and adapter plate, you lose some oil, but just a bit. Just a few drips, nothing major. I'd have a cup to catch what does drop, but it really is very little. Nothing to worry about, and you can go back and top it off if needed when done.

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