I was working on the lathe and that material is so ridiculously soft....
But the sizes and the price is readily available. If you use 2024 or 7075 the price goes up 4 fold... not to mention that the sizes are sparce.
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5 and a half inches of clearence w/ 1" wheel gap? Thank you 235/40/18's... Thank you.
Wow! allblackedout111's awesome work!!! This is truly amazing stuff. Can't believe I've missed what was going on here.
I'm jumping in to make you (and others) aware of an issue related to relocating the battery. I've recently received two PMs about fuses blowing when the battery has been relocated to the trunk. This seems to occurs while starting the engine. I don't personally have this mod but have analyzed the design enough to get a good idea of what is happening.
The way I'm seeing the wiring set up is that a thick power cable is ran from the front to the rear, then tied to a 150 (or higher) amp fuse...or even a circuit breaker, and then connected to the + side of the relocated battery. The battery negative is connected to the chassis somewhere in the back.
Now we've all heard of the cardinal rule that all circuits should be protected by an inline fuse. But this should not the case FOR THE STARTER. The reason being is that the starter can easily consume about 150 amps on startup. It'll consume more if the engine has higher compression or isn't well lubricated or something is causing a drag on the starter. Basically anything that affects the inertial of the starter will cause the amperage to spike higher than normal.
Now if you look at the starting system, the starter's positive wire is directly connected between the battery and the starter...there is no fuse there. And the ground is directly tied to chassis and to engine ground. The end result is that when the starter is enabled by the starter solenoid, you are essentially tying the battery directly up to the starter via unprotected cable wires. So you basically want to continue to provide a similar setup. Putting an inline fuse in place, while wise, will cause it to blow unless you put in a very large fuse. How big? That will probably depend for each individual setup but I would gather it should be at least double the current draw, ie. 150 X 2 = 300 amps. You should probably be looking at circuit breakers at this point. Of course, running a separate unprotected cable from the battery + to the starter will cure this problem. You can then run another separate wire (protected in this case) from the battery + to the rest of the electrical system.
You also need to make sure that a chassis-to-engine ground strap is in place. Otherwise, that starter could be drawing current via some other path that might cause some problems.
I have some other ideas which we can discuss about but would rather solicit opinions and discussions before continue on with my monologue.
I don't see why people are having issues. I haven't had a single issue with my battery relocation. Too little research imo. anyone can feel free to pm me if you need more information on top of what J. mentioned.
I don't see why people are having issues. I haven't had a single issue with my battery relocation. Too little research imo. anyone can feel free to pm me if you need more information on top of what J. mentioned.
Hey Drunk,
Do you have a diagram you can post here on how you set yours up? Thanks.
however, isn't drunkmunky running two seperate 100 amp fuses for the main starter cable? I think he's just running a 0 gauge wire from the battery right to a 100 amp fuse, then the stretch all the way to the front, then another 100 amp fuse, then to the starter. I'm a little pissed now, because this means I wasted money on a fuse holder and a fuse. About 50 bucks because I bought a nice fuse holder. Although I can get a 300 amp fuse for my ANL style fuse holder, so that could be a solution.
I'm actually gonna need some help from you jserrano, i'll probably pm you tonight or tomorrow about some wiring issues that I'm not sure what to do with.
One thing to keep in mind is that if you put two 100 amps fuses inline into a circuit...you DO NOT have a 200 amp protection. Those two 100 amps fuses will "feel" the same amount of current flowing through them from the starter load. Typically, one will pop and while the other survives.
I'm running an 80 amp fuse for the 2 secondary lines, a 100 amp fuse for the starter itself, and a 100 in line fuse. I've never had any issues with the system, start after start after start
I'm definitely at least gonna try my setup at first, I was just going to have 0 gauge wire running from the battery to the engine bay, with a 100 amp fuse in line mounted in the engine bay. I wonder what will happen first start up....i guess thats what the fuse is for...if it blows i may run it straight from the battery without the fuse i mean that cant hurt anything i suppose
actually i may run it straight from the battery first and then buy a higher amperage fuse. Jserrano, could you explain a little furthur why you think it will need a 300 amp fuse?
Last edited by allblackedout111 : 06-05-2009 at 02:47 AM.
Well, if you look up the specs on our starter you will come across that it can consume 90 amps or less with no load. And with an installed starter the current draw could jump up to ~140 amps. If you try to start the engine with say the headlamps turned on, then you will exceed the 140 amps, and blow that fuse. So you would probably want to be at 150 amps to start. Why 300 amp? That is arbitrary for max current protection. You could go lower to 250, 225, etc...just leave a margin for any spiked situations. I guess it would really depend on how much extra electrical system people have in there car that is consuming a lot of current.
So I plan to be starting the car this weekend but I have some concerns. What sort of things should I do before starting the engine? It has been I think about 5 months without the engine starting. I know I should prime the fuel pump a few times to get fuel back through the lines but i remember reading in one of drunks threads that he forgot to prime the oil pump before starting? And how many times should I prime the fuel pump with turning the key to on? Any other things that I should be worried about when first starting?
manully turn ur engine over by hand or with the starter about ten times and that should prime the oil pump enough to not here any knock at all!!!!!!!!!!!
it works cause it creates suction and pulls oil into the motor without causeing damage,plus oil that you pour into the motor lubricates it also,thats what i always do when i install my engine or any of the other engine that i have done,protege,mx-6 klze swap,and of course my alty,but that really does stop it from knocking
It's like when you stroke your dork before you put it in her pink harp: you're just getting all the moving parts moving and out of stasis lock before you go all out and put the lube on.
It's like when you stroke your dork before you put it in her pink harp: you're just getting all the moving parts moving and out of stasis lock before you go all out and put the lube on.
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