I thought i had lost my box of CBF's but its ok i found it it was in the garage rite where i left it, got brett from shockworks coming over today to "do" all the mesurements for my new coilovers, these guys are based here in melbourne and they do some seriously good stuff, every set that we have fitted to a customers car has been blown away but the transformation in the car, so i really am looking forward to getting them in and driving the car hard, not a lot has happened as im back at work now and it has been busy, but i will get out and do a bit today maybe i will adjust the clutch pedal back as i now have too much throw with the new clutch in the car my old clutch plate was big time rooted and was actually bent thru the centre from all the hard starts so i had been chasing pedal adjustment cos i had trouble getting it into gear right at the bottom of the throw, now the clutch is fully engaged at about half pedal and if you push it too far it fingers on the pressure plate start touching the drive plate which could ge a nasty bit of bizo if the come off. Im still trying to decide about going all t-bolt style clamps on the the car or not i have had issue's with clamps coming off and really im over it, i got all new piping made to help cure it and i spose if going to go that far i should put the t-bolt style clamp on it to make sure it stays on, i have hear mixed reports though about how good they are compared to just a normal worm drive clamp, i have heard that the t-bolt style puts too much "clamp" on the pipe causing it to squash and then slip off but that was with alloy cooler piping not stainless like i have, were as most of the guys at the drifts run just the worm drive and most are ok there is always some that pop off but there are 80 cars there, at 2 comp days last year i had them blow off and i dont want that to happen again. thoughts and counter arguments begin.
You guys know me, I try to avoid the cheap shit. But in this case, I let my bro talk me into purchasing a cheaply priced OEM replacement rad - $60 with a 1 yr warranty. My gut instinct was to not install it. Just have it as backup in the inventory, just in case the Fluidyne rad I copped off of RedLion presented a problem, which I seriously doubted it would. Red reassured me there was no issue whatsoever. But good luck favors the prepared, right?
So my OEM unit has about 120k miles, and since I put the 93" 240sc ecu in, I lost my secondary cooling fan. Resulting in the accelerated damage/ware on the wack/cheap plastic OEM unit. Leaks were popping up.
My plan was to try and install the Fluidyne rad this next weekend, as I have a Mishimoto universal auto trans/power steering cooler coming in on Wednesday, with 2 Mishimoto 12" slim fan mounting kits. The bad luck continued with the non-availability of another Mishimoto 12" Red slim fan - Mishimoto was out of them, and another eBay vendor was out. Found one through another vendor last night, hoping they can process my order and ship for delivery Wednesday.
An OBX red rad hose kit is on the way too, purchased yesterday and hopefully in stock
The Nismo t-stat will have to wait a bit.
So hopefully I can have the aluminum rad installed by this weekend.
As it turned out, the cheap shit I bought started leaking badly right after install. ****IN bullsheet!! So now the car is down
Cheap crap about to go in:
Nice to have that ugly OEM setup out:
Coolant is clean & green though, so that's nice:
Test fitment of the Fluidyne & Mishimoto slim fan I have:
Liking this look.
Hoping I get a full refund on this crap:
Thought I'd have a couple more months with no rad issues, so I don't have to rush the Fluidyne install. Not! Don't get the cheap shit fellas.
__________________ Stage III"MO POWAH to the wheels"
Shout out to NissanClub for the knowledge proud member of "Got balls to rock the right rim size" Club!
Last edited by Jae413; 01-06-2013 at 04:43 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Jae413 For This Useful Post:
the plugs look good. normal ware. this Emance ECU and z32 maf are working good.
continuing that red theme through out the bay.
installed Jay's old distributor and wires. popped in a new o-ring for the ditributor, and his has the gasket in much better condition then my oem unit that had the gasket/seal breaking badly do to a failed o-ring. the wires will hold me down for now, threy're not in the best condition, till i buy a new set. that mushroom filter is temporary, until i buy a red k&n cone filter. bought the musroom cause it had the z32 maf adaptor that i needed. i was using the wrong one, rigged before.
Red, as you told me, the aluminum rad doesnt match up like the oem unit, ended up doing this for now. till i do some custom brackets. big thanks to you for the rad! i have her in the car, filled up and she is holding lovely.
got this to get my practice on, for some custom units.
i cant find a red Mishimoto fan anywhere. Drunk, Red...
running one fan for a few months, will that be ok? i'll be running just water with the Amsoil coolant additive, which is supposedly better then Redline's Water Wetter. im running 1 fan right now anyways, the fluidyne wont fail like the oem cheap plastic, and the additive will reduce temps. i could right?
Mishimoto wont have red 12" slim fans available unitl May and i dont want to mix colors in the bay.
"Explain to me why lowering it would down grade the car. Whats wrong with a lower center of gravity? If you say ride comfort, I will smack you through my monitor."
"Setting a realistic goal of 325WHP but quite honestly I'll be happy as a priest in a daycare with anything over 300 to all four."
You shouldn't have the radiator tighter than a virgins pussy.
The hymen will tear and your radiator will fail.
No, seriously. You need to have some play w/ the radiator as it moves and vibrates within the car. The aluminum is soft and if you have it rubbing up against metal, it will fatigue and ultimately fail.
Short term, you're good. Long term, give it some play.
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