Make sure you guys are starting with no initial preload on the swaybar.
now i understand why the drivers side, rear endlink adjusted on its own. i have been tossing her around in turns a bit, not much, waiting on the d2's to really push her to her limits. but since its only me in the car - thats causing the balance to be off since i have no passenger, resulting in the driver's side rear endlink self adjusting due to preload/installing everything while the car was jacked up.
so if you drive mostly alone, then its wise to leave the rear drivers side endlink a little longer. heard anything on that Jay?
hmmm, wonder if that would apply to the front endlinks (not installed yet though). factoring in cross section, would i have to leave the passenger side front endlink longer Allblack?
back to reading some more...
__________________ Stage III"MO POWAH to the wheels" Shout out to NissanClub for the knowledge proud member of "Got balls to rock the right rim size" Club!
now i understand why the drivers side, rear endlink adjusted on its own. i have been tossing her around in turns a bit, not much, waiting on the d2's to really push her to her limits. but since its only me in the car - thats causing the balance to be off since i have no passenger, resulting in the driver's side rear endlink self adjusting due to preload.
so if you drive mostly alone, then its wise to leave the rear drivers side endlink a little longer. heard anything on that Jay?
hmmm, wonder if that would apply to the front endlinks (not installed yet though). factoring in cross section, would i have to leave the passenger side front endlink longer Allblack?
back to reading some more...
I only weigh 140lbs, not much in comparison to the rest of the car. So I keep the endlinks at equal length for both sides.
__________________ Click to see more! 2000 Nissan Altima GXE
-Eccho's TB Spacer
-Hotshot CAI
-Vibrant FSTB
-UR Pulley
-ST Rear Sway Bar
-Liquid Ink A-Arm Brace
-Hotshot Headers
-Spec-V Rims
-GC Coilover Sleeves on Tokicos
-Transmission Valve Body Upgrade
-Rear Disc Brakes
^ true, i'll try leaving one side longer & test it out.
as for your next auto x'ing run, dont do it, let the cams break in and get her running tight for the following event. they make you wear a helmet right? how many cones you ran over? dont lie now...lol. or was it a track?
You don't adjust the sway bar to compensate for the driver.
You're end link should not have adjusted itself in any way.
To keep preload off the sway bar, you need to have the car on the ground without the sway bar end links attached, and attach them evenly on both sides, keeping the sway bar holes at a parallel angle to the floor (at least for a first gen, the second gens are probably around a 45 degree angle with the floor)
hmmm, i thought kepping preload off means raiding the car so there is no weight pressing down. so keep the car on the ground then? or was it a typo...
i cant wait to get these on!
__________________
99' Nissan Altima GXE [SIGPIC]
If the part is still listed, IT'S STILL FOR SALE -Set of Ground Control Adjustable Lowering Springs -Suspension Technique Rear Anti-Sway Bar -Liquid Ink Front Control Arm Brace (NEW NEVER USED) -Injen Short Ram (not officially CA C.A.R.B legal at the moment but they will send you a sticker on request) -Black Center Console Trim -Aluminum upper Rear Trunk Brace
PM me if interested
got it allblack, going to try that this weekend then. I read both ways, what you mentioned & keeping one side a lil longer.
Nate, yeah, keep it on the ground. but Jack the car to install your bar 1st, attach the endlinks at the strut but not the sway bar. then lower it with wheels on. get under her and adjust the endlinks so that they will slide right on the top notch of the st bar. that's the hole going towards the bar. tighten them up and bam! your starting with no preload. I think, from what I've learned in the past 2 days.
I went wrong by installing everything while the car was jacked. noob mistake, on top of that I placed one of the poly bushings on the wrong end. I rushed the install cause security in my community was on my ass - wasn't suppose to work on the car in the parking lot.
Why does the end link length have any effect upon anything? I assume that changing the length changes the effectiveness of the bar, but I don't know which direction does which and can't figure out why. Anyone care to explain? I just finished placing an order for some Racing Beat endlinks, so I figure I should learn what all this crap means.
While I'm at it: How on earth do you 'preload' a FSTB?
__________________ 1999 Altima GXE 4AT. eBay strutbar, LI A-arm brace, Racing Beat rear endlinks, SS rear brake lines
ES A-arm bushings, ES RPL bushings, ES swaybar bushings, Eibachs on Tokicos
RLR Motor Mounts, Speeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeedline wheels
Why does the end link length have any effect upon anything? I assume that changing the length changes the effectiveness of the bar, but I don't know which direction does which and can't figure out why. Anyone care to explain? I just finished placing an order for some Racing Beat endlinks, so I figure I should learn what all this crap means.
While I'm at it: How on earth do you 'preload' a FSTB?
according to redlion, to preload a fstb you adjust it to the point where it's pulling on the strut towers or pushing them. obviously it has to be an adjustable fstb, my oem fstb isn't I believe. caught that searching through the forum.
lengthening/shortening the endlinks seems to have the same effect on the sway bar from what I gather. this can compress it like a spring I think, making it a bit stiffer - I'm no expert mind you so I'm not 100% sure but kinda makes some sense. in which direction depends on your set up I think, how low you are and which sway bar your rocking. someone with more knowledge care to elaborate? search the net kid! I did, type "swaybar preload" in the google search window. there's loads of info out there. very interesting stuff, just takes a little time to understand it.
hmmm so lower it all the way down? i.e no jack needed no more?
and...
does anybody know a good cheap site to buy oem front and rear control arms? preferably new. cuz i need to replace al mine :/ and are racinglines fron endlinks help as much as the rear endlinks?
jack the car, remove the wheels. then remove your old set up, install your new set up BUT don't attach the endlinks to the sway bar! do that after you've put your wheels back on & removed the jacks. you should be able to adjust the endlinks so that they will attach easily. I hope! going to do mine tomorrow.
our rides from factory are set up so the the front sway bar is thicker than the rear I believe. might be the same for the endlinks too. I haven't really looked at my front ones but I'm willing to bet either way it would be worth it to replcae them also.
You guys are putting wayyy too much thinking into this whole endlink setup.
Just install the endlinks while the car is jacked up. It makes no difference, because as soon as the car is on the ground the sway bar and endlinks will move into the correct position...
You guys are putting wayyy too much thinking into this whole endlink setup.
Just install the endlinks while the car is jacked up. It makes no difference, because as soon as the car is on the ground the sway bar and endlinks will move into the correct position...
in my case that's exactly what I did jay. but now I have one endlink much longer than the other. so I want to reset it by trying this way of avoiding preload and see if it happens again.
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1999 Nissan Altima
[SIGPIC]
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