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#1 Old 07-25-2010, 05:15 AM
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brake adjustment help

this weekend I did a brake overhaul on my sisters 98 altima. put on new front calipers, rotors and pads as well as new drums, shoes and hardware. So i bled the brakes and they work really well, the front locks up if i want it to and all.

Issue is that the parking brake wont work when applied. When i pull it up all the way I cant feel it starting to hit a little bit but not much. When assembling the drum I screwed the self adjuster all the way in. Do I need to adjust that or something in the parking brake assembly? car is a 5spd so the brake is needed. Thanks all!
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#2 Old 07-25-2010, 05:45 AM
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Wait the adjusting screw on the drums is all the way in? As in it can't extend any further? If thats the case then something is seriously wrong.

There is a rubber gromet on the backside of the drum that gives you access to the adjusting screw with a flat head...try there.

From what I read you are supposed to adjust the shoes when you put the new drums on so that there is some resistance on the drums when you try and spin them. If that wasn't the case when you installed them then something is up.


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#3 Old 07-25-2010, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jayjaya29 View Post
Wait the adjusting screw on the drums is all the way in? As in it can't extend any further? If thats the case then something is seriously wrong.

There is a rubber gromet on the backside of the drum that gives you access to the adjusting screw with a flat head...try there.

From what I read you are supposed to adjust the shoes when you put the new drums on so that there is some resistance on the drums when you try and spin them. If that wasn't the case when you installed them then something is up.
no the adjustment screw that goes in between both shoes is screwed all the way in, as in it can go out much much futher. I also opened up the grommet on the back side of the drum but there is nothing behind it. That adjusting screw is close to the top of the brake near the wheel cylinder and the grommet is towards the bottom.

The car is also very noisy after the brake job, i feel like the pads are rubbing on the discs a lot right now. that should go away with time right since everything is new?

below is a picture of all the old equipment for reference in the install. the red circle is that adjustment screw which i have screwed all the way in. the old set up had it out some. and the green circle shows the approx location of that grommet, which is no where near the screw
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#4 Old 07-25-2010, 09:02 PM
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I dunno why you changed the drums out...the shoes look like they had a ton of life left in em.

I would adjust that screw so it extends out pushing the shoes against the drums...There should be another grommet on the backside for direct access to the adjusting screw. Its oval in shape.


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2000 Nissan Altima GXE
-Eccho's TB Spacer
-Hotshot CAI
-Vibrant FSTB
-UR Pulley
-ST Rear Sway Bar
-Liquid Ink A-Arm Brace
-Hotshot Headers
-Spec-V Rims
-GC Coilover Sleeves on Tokicos
-Transmission Valve Body Upgrade
-Rear Disc Brakes
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#5 Old 07-25-2010, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jayjaya29 View Post
I dunno why you changed the drums out...the shoes look like they had a ton of life left in em.

I would adjust that screw so it extends out pushing the shoes against the drums...There should be another grommet on the backside for direct access to the adjusting screw. Its oval in shape.
car has 110k on it and the drums looked original. covered in so much freakin rust. you can see how rusty it all is in that picture and you can see all the rust on the ground which was from when i banged on the drum to loosen it up a little bit. when trying to bleed the nipples broke off on the wheel cylinders so i figured just start fresh with everything so i wont have to worry about it again.

I guess ill get under the car again tomorrow and check for a second grommet. I didnt see one this morning but maybe i just missed something. that one at the bottom was a circle grommet.
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#6 Old 07-25-2010, 11:27 PM
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Well if the grommet isn't there you can just remove the whole drum and adjust the adjusting screw there and place the drum back on and keep on repeating the process until its satisfactory. Thats how I did it when I did my rear brake job...


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-UR Pulley
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-Liquid Ink A-Arm Brace
-Hotshot Headers
-Spec-V Rims
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#7 Old 07-26-2010, 12:25 AM
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The rear drum shoes will make rubbing noise occasionally when they are new. They will make the noise more when they get really warm. I changed my drum shoes almost 2 years ago and they still make noise to this day if I get the brakes really hot.

To minimize the noise, try filing down the edges (corners) of the pads slightly with a file.

Are you saying the adjusting screw is all the way in? If the parking brake won't grab, shouldn't you be adjusting the screw out, so it pushes the pads out and therefore closer to the inside of the drum?

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#8 Old 07-26-2010, 12:27 AM
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Yeah thats what I'm trying to get him to do...need to adjust the screw out so the shoes are slightly rubbing against the drum.


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2000 Nissan Altima GXE
-Eccho's TB Spacer
-Hotshot CAI
-Vibrant FSTB
-UR Pulley
-ST Rear Sway Bar
-Liquid Ink A-Arm Brace
-Hotshot Headers
-Spec-V Rims
-GC Coilover Sleeves on Tokicos
-Transmission Valve Body Upgrade
-Rear Disc Brakes
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#9 Old 07-26-2010, 12:33 AM
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yeah i just didnt know if there was the way to do it without pulling the drum off. ill work on the adjustments tomorrow by looking for a way to do it from the outside, if not ill just pull the drum off.

ive got 4 wheel disc on my protege5 and this is my first job doing drums, just looking for help and ive got plenty. definitely will be using this forum for my sisters car in the future! thanks!
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#10 Old 07-26-2010, 01:06 AM
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You should adjust them so they slightly rub on the drums as you spin them by hand with the car jacked up and the wheel off. Once the screw is out far enough that they catch the drums when you put them back on and try to spin them, screw it back in little by little until they no longer catch when you spin the drums by hand.
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#11 Old 07-26-2010, 03:34 AM
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i had the same problem on my 93, there is no grommet on the backside to adjust the brakes as other cars. So the only way to do it is to adjust the adjusting pin where you can barley get the drum on and then in a driveway or empty parking lot drive slowly in reverse and press the brakes. I will have to look again but maybe these adjust off of the emergency brake, anyone know?

Last edited by jnic116; 07-26-2010 at 03:45 AM.
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#12 Old 07-26-2010, 04:48 AM
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Yes adjust the pin by taking the drums off...I've tried the go in reverse and pull e-brake trick...didn't work as far as I could tell.


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2000 Nissan Altima GXE
-Eccho's TB Spacer
-Hotshot CAI
-Vibrant FSTB
-UR Pulley
-ST Rear Sway Bar
-Liquid Ink A-Arm Brace
-Hotshot Headers
-Spec-V Rims
-GC Coilover Sleeves on Tokicos
-Transmission Valve Body Upgrade
-Rear Disc Brakes
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#13 Old 07-26-2010, 11:51 PM
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so i pulled off the drum today to check things out and that self adjustment screw did in fact back itself and well self adjust. the parking brake issue came down to me just adjusting the cable below the console. so now it seems like things are okay. gonna pull the front wheels off later just to check on the rotors and calipers, make sure its all tight still.

then this weekend its on to replacing both half shafts. boots are torn and it sounds freakin awful right now. not driving it until then
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#14 Old 07-27-2010, 01:05 AM
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^Have a fun time loosening the axle nuts, I've broken two breaker bars taking axles in and out.

You might want to start spraying pb blaster on them each day now, up until you actually do the axles.

May I also recommend disconnecting the sway bar endlinks to make removing the axles easier as it allows the control arm to drop more, also remember you do not have to separate the ball joint, but you will have to separate the tie rods.

Last edited by allblackedout111; 07-27-2010 at 01:07 AM.
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#15 Old 07-27-2010, 02:20 AM
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man this sounds more and more awful to do this job. i know those sway bar endlinks will be rusted in place so im sure ill need new ones of those. so if im separating the tierods will this result in me having to go out for an alignment afterwards. the only time ive done an axle is on my 98 civc and it was a pretty simple process compared to what this seems to be.

i will start spraying all parts i need to remove with pb blaster starting tomorrow afternoon.

any other advice for doing this job?
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