Removing the timing chain cover, what to remove????
I can finally post!!
Hey guys, I am wondering what I have to remove to change the gasket on the timing gear cover, it is leaking and I am trying to get my brothers car to pass inspection. I have already removed the valve cover and belts, I'm planning on removing the alternator and crankshaft pulley today. Is the best way to to that by taking the starter off and wedging the flywheel?
What also do I have to remove, do I absolutely have to drain the coolant and oil? Do I have to remove the A/C pump?
I work on my diesel f250 a lot so I have a basic understanding of things, always open to learning though, I'm more used to and proficient in diesel engines to be honest.
Also, this car has 195K miles on the clock. Is it best to just swap a JY motor in??
92' Ford f250 diesel 7.3 turbocharged
98' Ford ranger gasser
02' Dodge caravan
95' Buick lesabre
94' Nissan altima
Swapping the motor will end up costing much more, but you'll be able to get at hard to reach hoses and knock sensor. I'd say if you like the car and want to keep it for the longer, swap the motor. If your just looking to make it last another year, fix the leak. Its actually a pretty clean looking engine bay for a '94. If you take the rotors off (which by the way isn't necessary for pulling the axles), you'll have some more weight for your bar bells.
If you decide to go the repair rout, you'll definately be draining the oil - the oil pan (upper and lower) has to come off. Coolant can stay, but you might decide to change the water pump while your in there. You're not required to pull the water pump for this job, but it will give you more clearance if you do, making your job that much easier. The A/C compressor will need to be pulled away from the engine, and the Power Steering pump as well. Like it has been said, it is a huge job - not simple at all.
I don't really have much time to work on this, My bro might be getting another car so I might just pull this engine and fix everying while its out. Also, it shudders and hesitates alot especially if I get on the skinny. What would that refer to? A poor fuel system?
Do I have to discharge the freon to remove this A/c pump?
You don't have to discharge freon if you work on it with the engine in the car.
If you remove the engine with a cherry picker (out the top) you will have to because the hard lines on the high side are in the way. If you have the means to get the engine out through the bottom, you won't have to discharge. The Nissan Service Manual recomends going out the bottom. I went out the top when I did it. The tranny makes it a tight fit, so you'll need to come out at an angle if you go out the top. Are you throwing any codes from the ECU? There are several things that it could be. I would assume you've already looked at the obvious things like plugs and wires, cap, rotor.... Sometimes the distributor goes bad on these cars because oil gets into em. Other than that, I'd start with the codes, check the fuel filter, etc.
yeah, i just did this job, and it does suck. but in all honesty, it can be done by one person, and its not too bad as long as you have enough jacks/stands to support everything once stuff is unhooked, and the a good selection of tools for getting to all the bolts.
the worst part of the job is that EVERYTHING is a greasy, grimy mess because of the leaking oil. i probably spent as much time cleaning parts and the engine bay as i did actually fixing the problem... and theres still a lot of oil/grime down the underside of the car that im not going to clean.
what made the job extra tough for me was dealing with the rusted out body, and replacing shit that broke during teardown (which is pretty much complete, by the way... posting pics in my thread soon).
as for parts, the timing cover seal kit was ~$10, and the 1 tube of gray rtv was less than that. probably another $10 for a few cans of de-greaser. i took my sweat time on it, but it could probably be rushed through in 2-3 good days, tops... if you put the owner to work on scrubbing the parts while you pull them! lol. there was some 1-hour rtv sold at the local parts store.. like $12 instead of $8 for the regular. that would eliminate having to wait for 24 hours for curing before re-filling fluids and finishing up.
I know, but my brother is getting another car and I don't really need this. I know its not that huge of a job but I'd rather not spend lots a time working on something I can't and wont use. I'd rather spend time on my DD f250
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