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#1 Old 06-06-2011, 04:06 AM
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Wont stay running

Well, my Mother-in-law's Altima is having more trouble again. After pulling the engine to fix just about everything on it, something else is broken.

You can start the car, but the moment you put your foot on the gas and start reving to go anywhere, it dies. I'll be towing it back to her house tomorrow and pulling the codes on it. Any clues to what it might be?

thanks!
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#2 Old 06-06-2011, 05:31 AM
... don't get caught
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slownis View Post
Well, ... I'll be towing it back to her house tomorrow and pulling the codes on it.
Any clues to what it might be?
... post up the codes.

1997 Altima, 5-speed;
144,000 miles.

Last edited by UhOh; 06-06-2011 at 09:42 AM.
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#3 Old 06-06-2011, 10:30 PM
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That was happening to mine too. I could start it, even drive a little (*very* light-footed, and not up hills), but whenever I put the engine under any load, it'd cut out.

I thought it was ignition related; distributor, cam sensor, etc...

Turned out to be a bad main ground cable.
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#4 Old 06-07-2011, 01:53 AM
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My code reader actually didn't find any codes. I was very surprised by this. Wondering if my problem is also electrical, and its forgetting any codes. I'll check it out tomorrow, now that I got it towed back to my driveway.
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#5 Old 06-09-2011, 10:20 PM
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Update, the car is in my garage, and not throwing ANY cel or code. When I start it, it takes longer than normal, and it runs rough, but will usually run at least a minute or two. If I put my foot on the gas it dies. Whats the quickest way to check the fuel pump?

thanks!
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#6 Old 06-10-2011, 07:26 PM
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I still need help, as I'm currently stumped. I'm pretty sure its not fuel. I can feel fuel moving through the lines when the ignition is switched to 'ON'. Its also not the main ground cable - I disconnected where it connects to the engine as well as the car body, sanded both places, and tightened them back down. Any other ideas? Plz???

Here's a video. The car will start, but sometimes its a rough start. Sorry its dark, but there really isn't much to see. The car starts fine the first time, but when feathering the throttle it dies. The second time it starts rough. I throttle it a bit, but it eventually dies again.



Last edited by Slownis; 06-10-2011 at 08:07 PM.
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#7 Old 06-11-2011, 03:49 PM
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No help huh? Well, guess i'll go spend $180 on a new fuel pump and hope it fixes it.
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#8 Old 06-11-2011, 03:57 PM
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post that video and your question on the bobistheoilguy mechanical forum. They go ape shit over the youtube vids. Some good wrenchers there too to answer questions - espcially on this crappy rainy weekend in the NorthEast.
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#9 Old 06-11-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lairdwd View Post
post that video and your question on the bobistheoilguy mechanical forum. They go ape shit over the youtube vids. Some good wrenchers there too to answer questions - espcially on this crappy rainy weekend in the NorthEast.
OK, well I registered an account over there and I'm waiting to be approved. Meanwhile I've removed the old fuel filter - even got the cover thing off without buying the special tool. The resistance between terminals is .9 - seems to be within spec. Since I've got it out I'll go ahead and get the autozone one this afternoon and put it in. Not feeling confident that it will fix the problem, but I don't have any better ideas. Maybe I'll get lucky .
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#10 Old 06-12-2011, 02:07 AM
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just throwing this out there...

this sounds a lot like a problem i had with my 91 accord. turned out to be the idle air control valve.

with the honda, it would fire up and run when cold, but as soon as the engine warmed up, and fast idle kicked off, it would choke out and die. when it would run, it ran rough. after it warmed up enough for idle to drop, it wouldnt start again until it had cooled off completely.

in that specific case, the valve itself was making a whining/humming sound when the key was on, which could be heard most clearly through the throttle body. once i got the valve off the intake, i saw that it would move to the completely open (or closed) position as soon as the power hit it.

the service manual should have directions for testing it with a multimeter.

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#11 Old 06-12-2011, 01:01 PM
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OK, for now I've decided to play it safe. I've pulled out the fuel pump, but I'm going to reconnect it and I picked up a fuel pressure testor for $25 from Harbor Frieght. I'm going to try that out.

One of the guys on the Bobistheoilguy forum suggested the TPS. Anyone here have experience with a TPS problem? Would that normally throw a code?
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#12 Old 06-12-2011, 02:57 PM
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IACV, MAF seem to be the likely suspects. Have you cleaned the MAF and throttle body? Have you unplugged the MAF just to see what's up?

You really need a CONSULT board to monitor the sensors. Do they make such a thing for the second gens?
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#13 Old 06-12-2011, 04:33 PM
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tps should throw a code. i dont know about the MAF, but i think it would. on the honda, the IACV went out, but it never gave me a CEL... that's why it came to mind.

all these sensors and stuff should be testable with a multimeter, either by measuring the ohms, or by back-probing the connector and checking the voltage. i'd assume the service manual would have the procedures, but i've never looked for myself.

here are a couple of videos i made of the honda's problem. you can check them out and see if you think it may be a similar issue...

#1 - rough idle, strange noise

#2 - iacv off intake, noise located

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#14 Old 06-13-2011, 12:06 AM
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It turned out to be something simple. The fuel pressure checked out, and all the computer readings were on target. My neighbor brought his top of the line code reader over that does live readings and has car specific codes. I also disconnected all the different sensors (MAF, IACV, etc) and nothing seemed to make a difference with the symptom. I even cleaned the throttle body and MAF. By using a spark tester, we finally figured out it was a bad distributor cap and rotor. Changed those out along with wires I broke when I tried to remove them from the old distributor cap. Now everything is perfect.

Thanks again!

Last edited by Slownis; 06-13-2011 at 12:09 AM.
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#15 Old 06-13-2011, 02:32 PM
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cool! a cheap part to replace too.

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